I have a 2005 Mahindra 2615 HST with 480 hours. When i push the locking differential pedal down, it does not seem to lock the rear wheels and the pedal does not come back up on its own as it is supposed to. I have to grab the pedal with my hand and pull it back up. Could the clutches be damaged? Does anyone know how hard it is to get to the parts to see what is going on? Can you access the parts from the top of the case, under the driver seat? Any help would be much appreciated.
Mahindra 2615 HST locking differential problems
- Thread starter Mapp
- Start date
Sysop
Elite Member
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- Jun 7, 2013
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- Fairmont, WV
- Tractor
- Mahindra 4035HST purchased 2013 - Husqvarna TS348-D purchased 2019 - Craftsman 42" HST purchased 2003
Diff lock pedals are commonly "sticky" on many tractors. On many, there are only one or two places within the differential it will lock and when you press the pedal you need to hold a little bit of pressure on it to hold it down while slowly rotating the tires. As the spinning tire rotates, it will come to the point within the differential it can lock and you'll feel the pedal drop a bit more as the lock goes into place. At that point the two rear tires will start spinning in unison (and typically grab the traction needed to pull out of whatever you are stuck in). Generally when you let off on the pedal, it is supposed to come up on it's own, but there is so much of a bind on the lock in the differential it doesn't immediately release. To release the binding of the lock and get the pedal to pop up, move the tractor forward and reverse some, make a few low radius turns each direction. Generally within a moment or two of doing this and that it will release the tension within the differential lock and release the pedal. Lifting up on the pedal by hand generally doesn't disengage the lock. I have seen 4wd models not want to release the rear diff lock when 4wd was enabled too.
This is just general information regarding my own tractor and the various tractors I've operated the diff lock on in the past. Your model may be setup slightly different as my experience with a large variety of machines is limited.
This is just general information regarding my own tractor and the various tractors I've operated the diff lock on in the past. Your model may be setup slightly different as my experience with a large variety of machines is limited.
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Super Member
I had this same problem on my 3016. The manual states that if differential does not come back up on it's own, to "untie" the brake pedals and alternately engage the left and right brakes. Mine did come up after that. I then sprayed the bajesus out of it with Liquid Wrench on several subsequent days in the area where the shaft enters the diff housing. I've had no more problem with it after doing this. If it is perpetually "stuck" , you would not be able to engage it again and you'd be in "lock" mode the entire time. It requires an entire tear down of the rear differential to get to the locking diff parts so it is not an "easy" fix.
Thanks for the responses. I tried all the above mentioned and pedal did not come back up on its own and i can guarantee that rear wheels are not in "lock" mode. Matter of fact, i am pretty sure they did not lock in when i initially pushed the pedal down. I am thinking that it is not engaging at all any more, even when the pedal is pushed down. I am the original owner of the tractor and the differential has always worked prior so not sure what the issue is now.
DavesTractor
Elite Member
The actual "throw" that engages the pedal is just a small portion of the entire range of motion of that diff lock pedal. The top couple of inches of throw should be ignored. But the first thing to make sure of is if something is stuck or binding, get it working if possible, then consider if it is releasing. Review any linkage on it and make sure it is functioning. To test the diff lock without jacking up both rear wheels, I'd put the tractor in 2wd and then drive around in a slow tight circle on gravel while engaging the pedal/lock. If it engages, the inner tire will have no choice but to spin and the tractor will fight you trying to turn it sharp...it will really want to go straight. To get it to pop out, you will have to stop turning and go straight, and maybe even just a little bit of a turn in the other direction. It should pop back up just enough to disengage. You can then test again with the tight circle maneuver in 2wd without the diff lock and you can easily tell the difference.
George2615
Super Member
The pedal on my 2004 2615HST also got very hard to push down and wouldn't come back up. I spent a whole weekend spraying the arm where it enters the trans with penetrating oil and working it up and down by hand. I eventually got it freed up enough so the pedal moved easier. Mine was so stiff that when I first started, I pushed the pedal down with my foot and had to pry it back up with a crowbar. I also added a spring under the arm and clipped it over the metal cover to assist in pulling the pedal back up. I think the shaft going into the trans freezes up from lack of use. (at least that was my case). As Dave mentioned, You will know if it is engaged if you push it down then try to make a turn on dirt or gravel. If it's engaged the tire on the inner side of the turn will skid. If it doesn't you may have an internal problem.
DavesTractor
Elite Member
Great input George, keep in mind the other half of your diff lock linkage is exposed on the other side of the transmission housing. I know it seems odd, but the shaft going into the transmission on the left side merely passes through and the real work happens on the other side. No doubt that shaft going through the transmission is the most likely place for the linkage to bind up, it needs to be lubricated occasionally.
George2615
Super Member
I sold my 2615 last year but that was the problem I had. The shaft that goes thru the trans was binding from my lack of use and lubrication.