Tire fell off.

[George2615]

I was anticipating the 'this was your fault' response as I would have thought the same thing. But to be quite frank, if I have to do a complete checklist on a brand new tractor that costs 25k before using each time, then there is a problem with what these boys in green are delivering. In addition, I do in fact walk around the tractor, and wash it and check the oil and air pressure and the like. Am guessing you posters didn't check your torque on your tractor the last time you climbed on and I didn't either. Will see what JD says but at this point they are accepting responsibility for not shipping them torqued to spec. I really do appreciate the posts.

Just an FYI, My dealer gave me the checklist of what they performed on my tractor when purchased. Within a day or two I decided to go down the checklist and double check things. I found about 1/3 of the checklist was not performed. Mainly the items I found that were not performed were loader mount bolts were not torqued, lug nuts were not torqued, tire pressures were way too high, lights (one turn signal didn't work), washer fluid level was empty, etc. Fortunately all fluid levels were OK from the factory but had I not checked I may have ruined a wheel or broke or stripped a loader mount bolt. I guess the mechanic was lazy the day he checked all the boxes on the checklist. Needless to say I now have a different dealer.
I don't do a complete checklist before each use but do check fluids, tire pressures, loader bolt torque lights etc. per the owners manual. For my vehicles I usually check various things weekly.
Had I not checked these things and took it to the dealer after some damage happened I'm sure they would have told me it was my fault. Maybe I've grown cynical in my old age but I have little trust in other people working on my stuff. I'm glad your dealer is accepting responsibility and not blaming you.

 

[Coyote machine]

I was anticipating the 'this was your fault' response as I would have thought the same thing. But to be quite frank, if I have to do a complete checklist on a brand new tractor that costs 25k before using each time, then there is a problem with what these boys in green are delivering. In addition, I do in fact walk around the tractor, and wash it and check the oil and air pressure and the like. Am guessing you posters didn't check your torque on your tractor the last time you climbed on and I didn't either. Will see what JD says but at this point they are accepting responsibility for not shipping them torqued to spec. I really do appreciate the posts.

It's not really about fault/blame as I see it. It IS about being aware of what happens when things are in their initial break-in period. Whether JD torqued the lug nuts/bolts before delivery to you, or even checked the torque on them is somewhat irrelevant. Why? Because when bolts are new they can stretch and this will cause looseness and result in exactly what you experienced. How do I know? I owned and ran a foreign auto repair and sales shop. We did seasonal changeover of snows to summer tires and always recommended the customer return within 50 miles of driving to retorque the lug nuts.

And with a new tractor everything vibrates to the point of coming loose. :Loader to frame/chassis bolts are particularly susceptible because of the tremendous forces in play when lifting a bucket of whatever, etc. Things don't tighten themselves in use. They do work loose and that is the way of things mechanical. It is also why aircraft bolts/nuts are wired at torqued spec- so they can't come loose in flight.

Once lug bolts have gone through stretching and have been torqued properly several times they will stop stretching and will remain in place, for the most part, IF torqued properly, in sequence, to spec. Loader frame bolts may or may not do the same. It depends on the stresses, the bolt and the original holes drilled by the manufacturer.

My own loader frame bolts were too short and started coming loose on one side. I had to substitute longer bolts that would go further into the factory drilled holes AND LockTite the threads to keep them from working loose. I check them periodically and most stay tight. I know of other's with my model who stripped out the originals and had to remove the entire loader frame and drill through the original bolt holes and install bolts with nuts on the end. This is not something one wants to have to do if at all avoidable.

My point is new things take certain input from the owner/operator to keep things in check. Tractors are more this way than cars, for the most part, because the use if vastly different.
So, again I suggest making up a checklist from your owner's manual and follow it - or don't. Your choice.:confused3:

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Just to echo what others have said; check the bolt that mount the loader to the frame.

 

[whis]

you should have noticed the tire wobbling or heard something way before only one lug was left. after you get it fixed mark the bolts with a paint pen then a quick glance will alert you to check them

 

[LazyHRanch]

On thing I did on my tractor was mark the bolts in reference to the rim with a black sharpie marker after they were tightened down. It really helps me with the visual check that I occasionally do. If the line on the bolt matches the dot on the rim it is tight or backed off 360 degrees in which case I am screwed. I can post a pic if it would help. And good luck with getting everything fixed. I do not think that what happened is your fault in any way.
I bought a new machine because I did not want to worry about dumb stuff. If I had saved several grand buying a used machine then I would spend more time looking at that stuff. But I didn't and since I spent the extra money the lug nuts should be tight.

 

[Deere Dude]

Before the first due time to check my lugnuts I noticed 1/2 my lugnuts on the rear were loose and it was on a new 3720.

I don't think I had any missing and caught it before it REALLY rounded out the holes. I retapped the holes and got new lugnuts and a short time later I put 4"spacers on each rear. The only advice I can give now is to put blue locktite on all lugnuts. I did that and haven't had a loose lugnut in 500 hours. I just glance at them once in a while now but never touch them.

The new lugnuts were about 1/4" longer than the hole so it is easy to spot if they are backing out/

 

[Wagtail]

On thing I did on my tractor was mark the bolts in reference to the rim with a black sharpie marker after they were tightened down. It really helps me with the visual check that I occasionally do.

When my tractor was delivered all of my wheel nuts (and several others) were marked this way... with several miss-aligned. I torque tested them all (as recommended by the owners manual) and found them to be correct so my dealership must have caught these loose nuts during their wet-up procedure prior to delivery. None of them have budged since.

 

[oldpilgrim]

it's more important to check them during the newer hours of operation as when the new bolts are tightened, they crush the paint under bolts. After a bit of use, the paint remnants work its way out leaving the bolt loose. They don't tend to loosen nearly as much or often after a few tightenings as the paint is gone.

 

[Sprinklerman]

Same thing happened to me a couple years ago with my BX 24 . I went to Napa and got some wheel bolts for I think it was a VW beetle , they were the same .

 

[Rothbob1]

I am pleased to report back in that John Deere covered all of the repair under warranty. Heritage tractor in Topeka ks gave me the name of an Arizona dealer. I called Stotz John Deere and they fixed the rim, and then replaced the other rim to because John Deere had discontinued the old rim. Then did the 50 hour lube and a radiator shroud recall. I am a Green fleet member after buying 3 new tractors and to me, this is why I deal with John Deere. Am sure others are just as good but nonetheless I am pretty pleased with the way my is dealer and my Arizona dealer worked to take care of this.