Dixon ztr with stuck flywheel

[sleuth]

I have an old 2004 Dixon Speedztr 42" zero turn mower that has been limping along for the past 2 years. Lots of electrical problems to the point I was planning to rebuild the main wire harness this winter since you can't buy them anymore. Well, this week I had my first major mechanical issue - I had just started the mower and was driving it out of the barn when it sounded like I hit something and the motor stopped. I got underneath and there's nothing in the blades and they turn freely. Tried to restart and the starter engaged but the flywheel wouldn't turn - it's stuck. Disengaged the starter manually and the flywheel is still stuck. Checked the oil and it was low but not empty. I'm wondering if I threw a rod.

If the engine is bad, I'm thinking I'll strip it for parts or just sell it outright to someone who thinks they can fix it, but I've never broke an engine down. Might be a good learning opportunity.

I'm thinking it might be worth more to strip whatever parts I can reuse and shelve them. Not sure what to do.

But before I go down that road, any of you small engine mechanics know of anything I can easily check to determine if the engine is trashed or if I threw a rod?

Also would like opinions on salvaging parts versus selling a nonworking mower. Don't think I'll be buying another Dixon.

 

[oldman570]

There is a good chance that one or some of the flywheel magnets might have come loose and jammed between the flywheel and the stator coils. I have had this happen on mowers that had glued magnets on the flywheel. You have to remove the shrouding and use a fly wheel puller to get the flywheel off. If this is what has happened , you will need a new flywheel and a stator probably to get it back running. I replaced a flywheel over 3 years ago on a Kolher 22 HP motor that this happened to. and it is still running strong as a new one. Usually when a rod goes you will have a hole in the block and oil running out of it. A good mower shop often has old motors that the stator and the flywheel will be still good on. Some flywheels have bolted on magnets and are not usable on motors that has the glued on magnets.

 

[sleuth]

Pulled the flywheel yesterday after I found a sheared flywheel pin. Now trying to figure what caused it to shear. Magnets appear to be good.

 

[oldman570]

Pulled the flywheel yesterday after I found a sheared flywheel pin. Now trying to figure what caused it to shear. Magnets appear to be good.

A sheared flywheel key happens when the motor gets stopped from running/turning by hitting something very solid. Hitting stumps metal culverts, and items as such. Even larger limbs when they get mowed over and get between the blade and the deck. The sheared key will cause the motor to fire the plug at the wrong time and if the motor is on a compression stroke, chances are that the starting motor can not turn the motor over to start it.

 

[sleuth]

I pulled the head off last night and found I was able to move the piston a full stroke without turning the crankshaft. Conclusion: Rod or crankshaft is hosed. Pulled the engine of the mower and going to look into the cost of rebuilding, but most likely this mower is done.

 

[oldman570]

I pulled the head off last night and found I was able to move the piston a full stroke without turning the crankshaft. Conclusion: Rod or crankshaft is hosed. Pulled the engine of the mower and going to look into the cost of rebuilding, but most likely this mower is done.

You would be better off just buying a new replacement motor than trying to rebuild the one with a broken rod and probbly a bad crank and sleeve or bore. Often one can be found at several sites on the web, or a good used motor on Craig's list. Often for a lot less than buying a new mower. If the Dixon is a Hydro unit, they are about as good as all the others made today.