Loader curl leak down

[LD1]

Could the cylinder leak in just one direction even after rebuild?

Ugh

A cylinder holes different volumes of oil on either side of the cylinder.

This, wihtout oil leaking external to the cylinder, it can ONLY leak in one direction. And that is extend.

IF the cylinder is purged of all air, and filled with oil.....it is impossible to collapse the cylinder (retract) without oil LEAVING the system. Either out the hoses and back through the control valve.....or out of a leaking fitting if the valve is disconnected.

I guess its possible that the QD's are sucking air and causing the issue.....its easy and not too expensive to try.....but I am inclined to think something went wrong with the rebuild, or you have a scored cylinder.

 

[lexluther]

Cycled them to make sure they were full of oil, then raised the loader, to the point where the bucket was balanced. While it was up there I disconnected the lines and put caps on the cylinder inputs and it leaks down the same. It seems like that means both leak similarly, or one would hold the other.

Seems like the rebuild failed, any suggestions or recommendations on buying new cylinders?

 

[CalG]

Cycled them to make sure they were full of oil, then raised the loader, to the point where the bucket was balanced. While it was up there I disconnected the lines and put caps on the cylinder inputs and it leaks down the same. It seems like that means both leak similarly, or one would hold the other.

Seems like the rebuild failed, any suggestions or recommendations on buying new cylinders?View attachment 490160

Lex

Trusting that you cycled the curl at least 20 times.....

There are several designs of cylinder seals. some are more accommodating of bore irregularities. (Check Chicago Rawhide "CRC" for additional info) First check with the shop that did the repair. They may have a useful solution and be in a position to try to "make it up to you". After all, they want a good reputation based in useful repairs.

 

[lexluther]

Only cycled it 3x would it make a difference?

I'll take them back Monday, supposedly I am using the shop that knows their stuff

Sure appreciate the feedback!

 

[CalG]

Only cycled it 3x would it make a difference?

I'll take them back Monday, supposedly I am using the shop that knows their stuff

Sure appreciate the feedback!

Only that with any air in the system, all bets are off. 3X is not enough.

Plus, seals can either "bed in" and get better, or ...not.

The proof of the pudding is in the tasting!

By the way, 15 seconds droop is excessive leakage. imo

 

[LD1]

By the way, 15 seconds droop is excessive leakage. imo

Agreed.

Cycle the things back and forth for ~10 minutes straight. IF it still leaks, take them off and take them back to the shop that did the rebuild.

CAnnot advise on new cylinders without knowing what size cylinders were used. For a direct bolt on swap....OEM is gonna be best bet. IF you dont mind a little modification to get something to work, you can probably get close with aftermarket.

 

[lexluther]

Put it back together and cycled for 10 min straight. After, the no load full dump time is 80 sec with all the lines connected normal. Pulled the lines and put caps back on the cylinders and got the same time. Guess I'll take them to the shop Monday.

 

[JRobyn]

IMHO, your shop should make this right or should give you a good reason why they won't be able to. E.g., the bores are scored or something. And they SHOULD have told you if there was some problem affecting their leakage the first time around.

 

[CalG]

IMHO, your shop should make this right or should give you a good reason why they won't be able to. E.g., the bores are scored or something. And they SHOULD have told you if there was some problem affecting their leakage the first time around.

JR

This from a previous post by the OP

" The guy who did the work said there was a bit of rust in the cylinder that he honed, that seemed odd, but a long time heavy equipment contractor said this guy was the best. "

My take? , the cylinder bore has some level of imperfection, and that the repairman advised about , with his educated appraisal and sincere hope that the seal replacement would hold.

Seems like a stand up guy to me.

 

[LD1]

Before taking anything apart, I would first call the guy that worked on them.

Explained to him that you cycled from full curl to full dump for 10 minutes straight. You did this in hopes of accomplishing two things...1. Seating the new seals, and 2. making sure ALL the air was purged out.

While things certainly got better, going from 15 sec to 80 seconds, it still isnt right.

Let him know that you have isolated the cylinders and capped them to rule out the valve or the couplers as the culprit. And that there is an issue with both the cylinders.

See what his suggestion is. He may "remember" the shape that the cylinders are in, and maybe there is nothing he can do. OR maybe he will try honing them again????

At this point I'd be getting some measurements off the cylinder....bore x stroke, pin diameters, rod diameters, width of cross tubes, etc and be seeing if I could find something aftermarket.