Engine & Transmission Heater Specs

[lbaxterh]

Does anyone know how many watts (or amps) the Engine Coolant Heater (BLV10640) and Transmission Oil Heater (BLV10641) are on a John Deere 4066r or where I could look up this information? Thanks for any wisdom!

 

[RNeumann]

Engine & Transmission Heater Specs

If your curious about this then I'm betting you would have hundreds of needs for one of these- including answer your questions. The basic model is fine for most and is about $25. The fancier one has a bunch of stuff that has little value if you can do basic math. I use mine all the time!

Kill A Watt Meter - Electricity Usage Monitor | P3

 

[Oldtink]

Yep, 450 watts. It's the same block heater used in my 3520. Draws almost 4 amps. Can't help you with the transmission heater.
John Deere - Parts Catalog

PS I agree, those Kill-O=Watt thingys are handy to have

 

[Dave M7040]

Buy a cheap multimeter and measure the ohms/ resistance on the plug for the transmission heater. $15 or less. Many uses in trouble shooting starting, charging problems
You know know the engine heater is 450 watts. Measure its ohms.

The wattage of the oil heater can easily be found by comparing the ohms values. Fewer ohms means more watts in a calculable fashion.
Is one is twice the other then the watts are half.
This is a link to a simple on line calculator where you just input what you know such as voltage and resistance and it will give you watts
Hope this makes sense and is useful.
Dave M7040

 

[buickanddeere]

Cold ohm readings are not an accurate indication of warm/hot ohm values.

 

[Dave M7040]

Cold ohm readings are not an accurate indication of warm/hot ohm values.

No dispute with what you are saving and I am not trying to be argumentative but, unless I am mistaken, this guy is only trying to figure out if the two heaters will operate on one circuit or if one is more powerful than the other.

Not the heaters for the O rings on the solid rocket boosters the space shuttle usedhttp://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif

I just felt the Kill A Watt suggestion at $23, should you have to buy one, would be more expensive and less useful than a $12 multi-meter for tractor trouble shooting once this immediate need is over

Dave M7040

 

[rectifier]

We are working on equipment that is often worth $10k+ here. Let's not skimp on $20 or $50 and buy the worst meters. Yes, I am an electrician and I'm fussy about my meters.

The Kill-A-Watt and similar plug in meters are cheap at $23. Cheaper than any clamp-on meter and you don't need to build a shunt. I can't recall if they read true wattage or just VA, but either way they are worth having in anyone's toolbox even if you are just checking block heaters and plug in motorized equipment (pencil augers etc) for overloading.

In my opinion a $12 multimeter is not even worth $12. It is not reliable, it is not well built. A meter like that can get you killed. A better meter than that could have gotten me killed. I had left my Fluke in the shop and applied a "cheap" meter from the truck to a 600V auxiliary feed during a power failure. I got a believable safe reading (several volts), but thumping the meter and twiddling the dial back and forth revealed the true reading, 600V! Bad dials are a common fault for cheap meters, and this one was even worth $80 and was under a year old.

I know "we are only working on 12v/120v equipment" but a bogus meter can also waste an entire day of troubleshooting if it leads you down the wrong path. You don't need the best, but at least don't buy the cheapest. If you want test equipment under $10, a good old test light is the only trustworthy thing you can buy.

 

[buickanddeere]

We are working on equipment that is often worth $10k+ here. Let's not skimp on $20 or $50 and buy the worst meters. Yes, I am an electrician and I'm fussy about my meters.

The Kill-A-Watt and similar plug in meters are cheap at $23. Cheaper than any clamp-on meter and you don't need to build a shunt. I can't recall if they read true wattage or just VA, but either way they are worth having in anyone's toolbox even if you are just checking block heaters and plug in motorized equipment (pencil augers etc) for overloading.

In my opinion a $12 multimeter is not even worth $12. It is not reliable, it is not well built. A meter like that can get you killed. A better meter than that could have gotten me killed. I had left my Fluke in the shop and applied a "cheap" meter from the truck to a 600V auxiliary feed during a power failure. I got a believable safe reading (several volts), but thumping the meter and twiddling the dial back and forth revealed the true reading, 600V! Bad dials are a common fault for cheap meters, and this one was even worth $80 and was under a year old.

I know "we are only working on 12v/120v equipment" but a bogus meter can also waste an entire day of troubleshooting if it leads you down the wrong path. You don't need the best, but at least don't buy the cheapest. If you want test equipment under $10, a good old test light is the only trustworthy thing you can buy.

I agree . Can't understand how somebody can be so short sighted and cheap to choose a $10 multimeter over a $23 kilawatt . Regarding multimeters , Many of these cheap meters top out at 300volts or so which makes them useless and dangerous on 347/600 systems.