Fixing Aluminum Canoe

[check]

Was planning to use Weld Bond epoxy, because I thought it was just a seam problem. However it's a huge crack. Any ideas anyone?

 

[Baby Grand]

If you are confident with your soldering/brazing abilities, maybe try something like this?:
Hobart Aluminium Rod, Pack of 8 at Tractor Supply Co.
I haven't used the stuff, myself, but I do keep a set of rods in my welding "JIC" kit.
As with almost any weld/braze/solder operation, joint cleanliness & fit-up are going to be your friends.

It looks like a fiberglass repair might be another option to consider, considering the gaps that you will be looking at once you get the metal hammered out & fit up.

Maybe use the Weld Bond epoxy with some aluminum window screen lay-ups?

 

[CincyFlyer]

I'd weld a very large patch on it, perhaps on the inside if it could be done. Something with enough thickness to make welding easier, and also prevent what has happened here (looks worn through from "shore work") from happening again.

 

[3930dave]

Is that sideways compression of the hull enough to disrupt water flow/handling ? (Meaning, distinct from water ingress). Can't tell which end that is.... my point - does the hull need to be pushed back out ?

I like JB Weld, and I think (?) they have a marine version. Nothing against Weld Bond, just never used it.

Know anybody that can weld aluminum well enough to patch that ? (Definitely not within my skills).

A good aluminum compatible epoxy may do it, but coupling my belt-and-suspenders inclinations with a (normal) fear of water, I'd also try and track down a spray-in waterproof foam to line the inside of the hull. I don't work on boats, but I'd expect there should be a foam available that adds buoyancy - just guessing though...

Rgds, D.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think a combination of a pop riveted scab patch would work with a good epoxy bonding seal under the scab patch. It looks like there is a linear crack running along the mid-seam also so make sure your scab patch covers that area also.

I would fit the sheet metal patch, drill the pop rivet holes, then lay down a thick layer of slow drying epoxy , immediately fit the sheet metal and pop rivet in place. Allow to cure properly and it should hold for normal wear and tear. Hopefully you have room inside to work the pop rivet gun. This is going to be much easier with a helper to position the sheet metal and fit the rivets from the outside and then the second person to work the pop rivet gun.

 

[CincyFlyer]

The only issue I have with any sealer or epoxy is that if you ever decide to weld it, removing all of that stuff will take forever.

 

[LD1]

The ONLY way I would be confident in a repair would be a welded one.

Send a pic to a weld shop. I don't have aluminum welding equipment at home...but do alot of aluminum welding at work. That looks very doable. Would probably take 1-2 hours. And maybe put a thicker plate on over it and bend it into place. Something like 1/8" or 3/16 wear plate, especially if that's the front.

I would not consider any form of glue.

Glue for a temporary solution to get you through til winter (if you need canoe now) the fix over winter? But I'd fix it right the first time.

 

[check]

Great suggestions guys - thanks! I particularly like the idea of aluminum screen in layers. I will also see if the local marina will weld it.

BTW, this is not exactly what i would call a "performance" canoe - in fact we call it the "war canoe" because of all the dents and such. (We inherited it with a cottage we bought back in 2002.) However, it is quite large, and we let the rental property guests use it (who come in groups of up to 10), alone with a 14' rowboat and two kayaks.

Will keep y'all posted, and thanks again for the suggestions!

 

[LD1]

Not something I have ever looked into....but can you rent a welder to weld aluminum???

Perhaps would be fun to give it a try

 

[Gary Fowler]

The ONLY way I would be confident in a repair would be a welded one.

Send a pic to a weld shop. I don't have aluminum welding equipment at home...but do alot of aluminum welding at work. That looks very doable. Would probably take 1-2 hours. And maybe put a thicker plate on over it and bend it into place. Something like 1/8" or 3/16 wear plate, especially if that's the front.

I would not consider any form of glue.

Glue for a temporary solution to get you through til winter (if you need canoe now) the fix over winter? But I'd fix it right the first time.

I was responding to the cheapest and fastest personal fix. A welded repair would likely cost over $250 which might exceed the value of the canoe but you are right, if you plan to ever weld it, all the epoxy has to be removed. From the view of that crack though, a proper repair would mean cutting out all that old dented, cracked and worn metal and putting in new material which would have to be formed in place. A shop charging $80-100 per hour would quickly eat up in labor cost much more than a new plastic canoe would cost.