JD1050 Wont take power and blowing black smoke

[TimberHole]

I have a friend that just bought a JD 1050 with an engine problem. The tractor will idle but when the throttle is advanced to about 1200 rpm's it rattles, blows lots of black smoke and quits. The 1050 is a turbocharged tractor.

Things done to date:

1) Injectors checked by qualified shop and they checked good.
2) Disconnected the intake at the manifold to verify there isn't an air restriction.
3) Verified the return lines are open.
4) Verified the thermostart system isn't leaking extra fuel into the manifold.
5) Verified the compression is good (Over 400).
6) Intend to run the engine on an alternate fuel source but not done yet.

I think we are down to the injection pump or the turbocharger. I think it would be a good idea to verify the injector pump timing but we don't have any reason to think it's wrong. The pump doesn't look like it's been messed with.

Is disconnecting the air intake at the intake manifold a valid test? Will a turbocharged diesel run correctly with the turbo removed? I think this is a valid test but I do not completely understand the relationship between the fuel flow and the air intake, especially considering this is a turbocharged engine.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this problem? We are trying to be systematic but neither one of us has any real experience with the turbocharger.

 

[Rara Avis]

I have a friend that just bought a JD 1050 with an engine problem. The tractor will idle but when the throttle is advanced to about 1200 rpm's it rattles, blows lots of black smoke and quits. The 1050 is a turbocharged tractor.

Things done to date:

1) Injectors checked by qualified shop and they checked good.
2) Disconnected the intake at the manifold to verify there isn't an air restriction.
3) Verified the return lines are open.
4) Verified the thermostart system isn't leaking extra fuel into the manifold.
5) Verified the compression is good (Over 400).
6) Intend to run the engine on an alternate fuel source but not done yet.

I think we are down to the injection pump or the turbocharger. I think it would be a good idea to verify the injector pump timing but we don't have any reason to think it's wrong. The pump doesn't look like it's been messed with.

Is disconnecting the air intake at the intake manifold a valid test? Will a turbocharged diesel run correctly with the turbo removed? I think this is a valid test but I do not completely understand the relationship between the fuel flow and the air intake, especially considering this is a turbocharged engine.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this problem? We are trying to be systematic but neither one of us has any real experience with the turbocharger.

Well, here are some basic checkoff lists to look at...

Black or Gray Smoke

• Basic Engine Malfunction
  • Incorrect Engine Timing
• Service Problem
  • Improper grade of fuel
  • Engine Overloaded
• Fuel System Malfunction
  • Excessive Fuel Delivery
  • Restricted Air Cleaner
  • Defective Muffler
  • Faulty injection Nozzles

Stalling

• Basic Engine Problem
  • Improper valve clearance
  • Cylinder head gasket leaking
  • Valves sticking or burned
  • Worn or broken compression rings
  • Low compression
  • Incorrect timing
  • Coolant temperature below normal
  • Engine Overheating
• Fuel System Malfunction
  • Low fuel supply
  • Restricted fuel lines or filters
  • Faulty fuel pump
  • Faulty injection pump
  • Faulty injection nozzles
  • Exhaust system restricted

 

[Spanner]

You could inspect the turbocharger, yes.
I just removed the broken exhaust off one last week. Muffler broke off at manifold flange. I can say the nuts were siezed and studs broke when owner tried his best. I needed Oxy-Acetylene and care. The age of these lovely old girls makes manifold work dicey. (He's now making up a custom exhaust, so my work there is done.)
I recall there was an oil feed pipe to, and drain from the turbo so if running it with no T/c you need to re-route the oil feed into the drain.

Check the turbo's impeller shaft for 'play' and signs of binding.

Running it non-t/c'd is sort-of like a ''normally-aspirated'' engine. It won't have the power it used to have but for testing/diagnosis would be valid. Same as dialing in zero boost. Just that the IP is set-up to supply more fuel than a N/a engine would need. It won't run very well...

The turbo applies 'boost' to pack more air into the combustion chamber than the cylinder can draw at normal atmospheric pressure when the piston is travelling down on its induction stroke.
Hence the IP is set to supply more fuel to take advantage of the extra air (oxygen) so it can burn it all. More fuel + More air = More power for a given engine displacement.
I've left a whole lot of stuff out but hope this is helpful. Be prepared for broken manifold studs!

Edit: Rara posted over me. His list is very useful. You will see that the most common cause of the symptom is a fuel delivery issue. IP timing or malfunction etc.
That's where I'd be looking too.

 

[joecdeere]

TH, I have a PDF of the tech manual you're welcome to, if wanted shoot me your email
Joe

 

[Barry 1]

I would guess there is gas in the diesel.

 

[TimberHole]

Thanks for the replies........I have also suspected contaminated fuel but the reason it won't be that is because it's a simple fix. Nothing is ever that simple in my world.

I think we have overlooked a couple of basic things. We'll check the exhaust for restriction and run the valves. Thanks spanner!

I had to heat those exhaust nuts red hot to get them off on my 950. That usually works for me. I replaced all the studs and hardware when I reassembled.

More later.......

 

[Texasmark]

On the turbo, I had a 100 hp 4230 JD naturally aspired. The 125 version was the same engine with a turbo and plumbing for an additional 25 hp. The exhaust outlet from the exhaust manifold was the same diameter. I'd look around for a way to block off the turbo output to the air inlet and disconnect the turbo. That would eliminate that right off.

Fresh fuel is an easy/quick solution especially if their is the slightest doubt of contamination.

 

[TimberHole]

On the turbo, I had a 100 hp 4230 JD naturally aspired. The 125 version was the same engine with a turbo and plumbing for an additional 25 hp. The exhaust outlet from the exhaust manifold was the same diameter. I'd look around for a way to block off the turbo output to the air inlet and disconnect the turbo. That would eliminate that right off.

Fresh fuel is an easy/quick solution especially if their is the slightest doubt of contamination.

I had him disconnect the hose at the intake manifold and just test with unfiltered air. He said it didn't make any difference.

 

[Spanner]

No. That's just eliminated the air filter itself as a cause.

 

[JimRB]

My VW TDI blew a lot of black smoke when the biodiesel started to gell up. I got pulled over trying to limp home on side streeets. I would make sure you have a clean fuel filter and a clean water separator. On my 870 there is water separator under the fuel tank and the fuel filter is up by the injector pump.