Ford 2000 Tractor starting problem

[aron5]

Have a 1968 Ford 2000 3 cylinder has a problem after sitting all night long doesn't want to start.
Replaced distributor, points, condenser, plugs, wires, cap, roter and coil. Rebuilt carberator with kit.

After it gets cold does not want to start and as I keep trying it improves, what am I missing ?
Posted video of it below in link..


Prime Photos

Any ideas

 

[strum456]

Have a 1968 Ford 2000 3 cylinder has a problem after sitting all night long doesn't want to start.
Replaced distributor, points, condenser, plugs, wires, cap, roter and coil. Rebuilt carberator with kit.

After it gets cold does not want to start and as I keep trying it improves, what am I missing ?
Posted video of it below in link..


Prime Photos

Any ideas[/QUOTE

At the beginning, I thought you had a couple plug wires mixed up. After hearing it run at the end, that's obviously not it. I think I saw some gas running out of the carburetor throat. My best guess is that the float is sticking. After sitting for a length of time, the engine is flooded really bad. It is taking some time to burn off all the gas.

Try turning off the gas and letting the engine run for a minute before shutting it down next time. If it starts without all the trouble, then you know what the problem is.

 

[TimberHole]

Like Strum says, turn off the gas before shutting down. I also wonder how the compressions are. Low compression will also make starting more difficult

 

[Dave M7040]

Have a 1968 Ford 2000 3 cylinder has a problem after sitting all night long doesn't want to start.
Replaced distributor, points, condenser, plugs, wires, cap, roter and coil. Rebuilt carberator with kit.

After it gets cold does not want to start and as I keep trying it improves, what am I missing ?
Posted video of it below in link..


Prime Photos

Any ideas

Aron

In spite of your carb rebuild, clearly the needle and seat or float level are not correct.
However, the benefit of side draft carbs located below the intake manifold is that gas is not dripping into the intake manifold so flooding is unlikely.

As a start I am suspecting weak ignition. Do you have a wiring diagram you could post. A ballast resistor not wired correctly to be bypassed when the key is in start is the cause.
The ignition timing sounds retarded. Was this checked and how?

A couple of photos of the ignition and starter side of the engine would help me. Use a flash so there are clear images.

Dave M7040

 

[DJ54]

I have a '65, 2000, and it's always taken quite a few revolutions to start, especially when it's cold. Full choke, and just crack the throttle off of low idle. If it's below 35º, figure on leaving the choke on, about half, for about a minute, until the manifold warms enough to vaporize the fuel well.

If it's summer time, it will start pretty quick, but needs full choke, until it fires. Wintertime, if I've been using it when doing something, then shut off, and it's sat long enough the block gets cold, figure on full choke, and quite a few revolutions before firing. I went through the same thing when I got it nearly 20 years ago. Did a complete tuned up with oem parts, cleaned the fuel system, etc. etc. At the time, I was opening the throttle almost 1/4, and it would not fire. Kept playing with it, until I found the sweet spot, just off low idle.

We got a new 4000 gasser at work in '74, and it was that way too. Just figured it was the nature of the beast. A lot more noticeable to me, when my IH tractors just need a quick on/off with the choke when turning over to get a sniff of fuel to start. And, unless below 20º - 25º, no need to leave the choke on to keep running. Although I do let them run for a couple of minutes, to warm a bit, and get oil through the system, before putting any load on them.

**** I forgot to mention, mine has the Holley Carb.