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  1. #1
    Elite Member Cliff_Johns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,697
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Tractor
    JD 4110

    Default ROPS Pins


    The ROPS pins on my tractor are a bear to remove and put back in. Since I'm keeping the tractor in a regular garage right now, I have to put it up and down every time I do any work. I use a vice-grip and twist the pins while pulling hard and they eventually pull out. I pound them in, though I do not have to pound to hard.

    The pins are standard 3/4" pins. What I was thinking was to replace them with the pins that have the big D handle on the end and a more sloped nose so they go in and come out easier. These pins are marketed as hitch pins.

    Does this seem like an OK thing to do? The metal appears to be the same -- but that's only how they look and feel. The big D handles would really make my life a lot easier.

    Cliff

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    217
    Location
    Mt Ulla NC
    Tractor
    451 Massey Ferguson

    Default Re: ROPS Pins

    My 451 Massey came with the D ring pins. As long as you have the same grade steel it shouldnt make a difference.

  3. #3
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    655
    Location
    Hereford, PA
    Tractor
    LK3054

    Default Re: ROPS Pins

    Mine are tough too. The ROPS is made in USA, I forget the make, and I'm sad to say the quality is noticeably poorer than the rest of the tractor. The fit of the pivot bolts in the holes is sloppier than it should be, and it seems that when the holes for the pin align on one side, they are off on the other, which makes the pin bind. I keep meaning to see if I can tweak it with the ROPS mounting bolts, but I donít put mine down much, so it never seems to make it very high on the list! Also, I donít know the correct torque values for the mounts, so Iím hesitant to mess with it. You may want to look at yours to see if something similar is causing the pin to bind.

    I just looked at it again - it's a USA company, but it doesn't say where it's made.

  4. #4
    Elite Member GerardC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    2,606
    Location
    New York
    Tractor
    KIOTI CK20 GEAR.

    Default Re: ROPS Pins

    Mine were the same way when I got my tractor. I just took my Dremel and opened up the holes. They slide in and out with ease now. Piece of cake. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] G

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    536
    Location
    Nelsonville, Ohio
    Tractor
    Can't remember....

    Default Re: ROPS Pins

    Sometimes it helps to loosen all of the rops bolts and retighten them. There is always some wiggle room in them. You just have to get the clearance in the place you need it. Sometimes you do have to help them a little. Most ROPS are built by Full Vision out of Kansas(I think). You guys with CK20's: Take your upper roll bar off loosen all of the bolts then put it back on, wiggle it around a little to give proper clearance then tighten only the 3 bolts you can get to easily. Take the upper bar off again and tighten the last bolt. That should fix it without having to get out the "Dremel"

    KO

  6. #6
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    655
    Location
    Hereford, PA
    Tractor
    LK3054

    Default Re: ROPS Pins

    Yes, that's who made it - here's my beef:

    1. Sloppy fit of the main pivot bolts in the holes. This may be intentional, an attempt to allow for mis-allignment.

    2. There are large burr/shavings around the holes - just painted right over. No attempt to clean it up between fabrication and painting.

    3. I hate assemblies that pivot on the threaded portion of a bolt. could have used a shoulder bolt, or some appropriate fastener. It could also have a flatwasher or two - what are they, 1/2 a cent?

    It's not awful, it works, it's just not what it could be.

  7. #7
    Old Timer Soundguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    51,550
    Location
    Central florida
    Tractor
    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: ROPS Pins

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( 3. I hate assemblies that pivot on the threaded portion of a bolt. could have used a shoulder bolt, or some appropriate fastener. It could also have a flatwasher or two - what are they, 1/2 a cent?
    )</font>

    Now that's bad design in action...Guess they couldn't afford a bushing. .or a specialized long shank bolt.. or even a threade pin for that.. huh.. Makes you wonder what else was scrimped on.. then painted over..

    Soundguy

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    536
    Location
    Nelsonville, Ohio
    Tractor
    Can't remember....

    Default Re: ROPS Pins

    Sad to say it is the American way of doing things. I love my country....it's just some of the people in it take no pride in the "Made in America" statement. Some of the American made stuff we have had I would be ashamed to see that sticker on it. Bolt holes to big are one thing we do to "make sure it fits".
    This statement isn't meant to encompass ALL American companies, so please don't bash me for being un or anti-American. I am not.

    KO

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    482
    Location
    West-Central CT
    Tractor
    Kubota L3130, LA723 Loader, BH90 Backhoe, Curtis Cab, || '82 Gravely 8199KT garden tractor

    Default Re: ROPS Pins

    Hi...


    How about welding "D" handles onto the current bolts ?


    Dave...

  10. #10
    Elite Member Cliff_Johns's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,697
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Tractor
    JD 4110

    Default Re: ROPS Pins

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hi...
    How about welding "D" handles onto the current bolts ?
    Dave... )</font>

    That's an excellent idea! If I knew how to weld, I would do that.
    Cliff

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