Replacing brake discs on Ford NH 1920

[AlbionWood]

I'm about to start in on this project and just wondered if anyone here has some tips or advice. Right now the tractor has almost no brakes at all. I've adjusted the linkages and the best I can get is a tiny bit of resistance if I really jam on it. Every time I've changed out the hydraulic filter there has been scale in it, so I suspect the brake discs are no good.

The 1920 has wet brakes and a common sump. I plan to get it up on jack stands, remove the rear tires, drain the sump and open up the brake compartment... after that it gets kind of hazy. I'm sure there are some little springs or balls or pins that are just waiting for the chance at freedom! Any tips about that sort of thing would be very welcome.

I have the I&T shop manual and the parts diagram from NH (which is why I suspect the trickery of springs and balls).

Thanks in advance, I've always gotten great advice here before.

 

[Dave M7040]

I'm about to start in on this project and just wondered if anyone here has some tips or advice. Right now the tractor has almost no brakes at all. I've adjusted the linkages and the best I can get is a tiny bit of resistance if I really jam on it. Every time I've changed out the hydraulic filter there has been scale in it, so I suspect the brake discs are no good.

The 1920 has wet brakes and a common sump. I plan to get it up on jack stands, remove the rear tires, drain the sump and open up the brake compartment... after that it gets kind of hazy. I'm sure there are some little springs or balls or pins that are just waiting for the chance at freedom! Any tips about that sort of thing would be very welcome.

I have the I&T shop manual and the parts diagram from NH (which is why I suspect the trickery of springs and balls).

Thanks in advance, I've always gotten great advice here before.

While the brakes are attached to the transmission, it does not necessarily follow you have "wet" brakes." Often there were seals to keep the oil out of the brakes and further the brakes we mounted high up on the transmission so often above the oil level.

Your brakes may well be the same as these Nuffield brakes, a British tractor for the 1960-1970's. Many ford's had British connections.

I have the brake section of the Nuffield workshop manual. It provides a pretty good description of the design.
Send me a PM with your email and I will email it to you


Dave M7040

 

[AlbionWood]

While the brakes are attached to the transmission, it does not necessarily follow you have "wet" brakes." Often there were seals to keep the oil out of the brakes and further the brakes we mounted high up on the transmission so often above the oil level.

Your brakes may well be the same as these Nuffield brakes, a British tractor for the 1960-1970's. Many ford's had British connections.
Dave M7040

This is a 1992 tractor, more Japanese than British I think (Shibaura engine). Interestingly the I&T manual doesn't say anything about draining the hydraulic fluid before opening up the brake case, though. Here's the parts diagram; I don't see any oil seals between the transmission and the brakes.


It's time for a hydraulic oil & filter change anyway, so I'll be draining it before opening up, and then we'll see what falls out.

 

[mykleh]

how did you ever wear out the brakes on a hydro static in the first place.. about the only time I even touch my brakes is going down hill with the bucket full or use it as a parking brake when running?? just curious.. I've never even adjusted mine in 23 years..

 

[AlbionWood]

how did you ever wear out the brakes on a hydro static in the first place..

It's not a hydrostatic. Mine has a 12x12.

I bought it with about 1200 hours on it. The previous owner lived on the side of a canyon and used it pretty hard.

 

[AlbionWood]

Well, I've learned two things. One, these are definitely wet brakes. Two, I should have done this a long time ago...

 

[RickB]

While the brakes are attached to the transmission, it does not necessarily follow you have "wet" brakes." Often there were seals to keep the oil out of the brakes and further the brakes we mounted high up on the transmission so often above the oil level.

Your brakes may well be the same as these Nuffield brakes, a British tractor for the 1960-1970's. Many ford's had British connections.

I have the brake section of the Nuffield workshop manual. It provides a pretty good description of the design.
Send me a PM with your email and I will email it to you


Dave M7040

Keep your Nuffield manual for helping those working on Nuffields. A 1920 has wet disc brakes, not dry disc brakes.

 

[RickB]

It’s beyond belief how people who know little to nothing about a particular tractor model insert themselves into a discussion. Your brake repair should be straightforward. No small parts will be flushing to escape the brake housing when you remove the cover.

 

[AlbionWood]

Your brake repair should be straightforward. No small parts will be flushing to escape the brake housing when you remove the cover.

Yep, all the little springs and balls are in the actuator assembly, which comes off with the cover, so nothing tried to fall out. Really a straightforward job. The hardest part was getting the rear wheels off and keeping them (filled with water) from falling over.

My only remaining question is about all the metal shavings that came off the discs and plates. I'm draining and replacing the hydraulic fluid and filter of course, but I wonder how long I should run before doing that again. There is going to be quite a bit of metal sitting in the bottom of the sump and especially in the brake housing.
I'm also planning to take off the suction line from the sump to the filter in case there's metal and gunk in there as well. Waiting for a new O-ring though.

 

[bg71361]

Does anyone know is Ford 1910 brake setup the same as the 1920??