Valve adjustment

[MaineGuy]

My ford 1200 2cyl, with 980 hours, is running a bit noisy. Yes, I know it was probably built that way to begin with. Anyway, I read in the operator's manual that adjusting the valves might quiet things down some. Is this something most of you do? It looks simple enough, remove cover and use a gauge to set gap and replace the cover. What should I be aware of before starting this.

David

 

[zenmek]

My JD 770 calls for the valves to be adjusted every 500 hrs. Remember that adjusting the valves will not only quiet things down, it will also bring ya a little more performance. Your right that it is a pretty simple operation, on mine I don't even need a new valve cover gasket as the one on there is a re-usable o-ring. Before adjusting the lash, make SURE the cylinder you're adjusting is on top dead center on the compression stroke. Adjust the lash to specs. and usually the adjustments are made on a cold engine. Have fun /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[MaineGuy]

Thanks Zenmeck,
My book says 600 hours. I just got the tractor and don't know if the adjustment was ever made. The dealer I bought from did most everything else before I bought it, new hoses, belts, fluids, filters. I guess it won't hurt to check it out.

 

[Junkman]

Check all tappets before making any adjustments. If you find that they all but one are in spec, then just adjust that one. Measure twice and adjust once. Many times unexperienced people will make the adjustments and the machine will run worse as a result of this. Remove all the spark plugs when making the adjustments and locate the timing mark. The engine cylinder HAS to be on TDC (top dead center) to make the adjustment correctly.

 

[larso1]

I always adjust the intake valve when the exhaust valve is full open, and vice versa. Is this close enough? The valve being adjusted has to be full closed when the other is full open, right?? Unless, of course, you're working on a high performance gas engine where the valves may overlap.

Bill in CO

 

[Junkman]

If the one that you are considering as being fully open is out of adjustment, then the other might not be fully closed. In this event, you would have to go back and readjust it. I always like to know that the cylinder is at TDC when making adjustments. There are many different techniques that people use and to say that one is right and one is wrong, it wrong. It is the end result that you are looking for. I had a friend show me how to adjust hydraulic lifter valve settings so they would all be correct when the engine is rebuilt. With his method, it is faster and more accurate.

 

[MaineGuy]

I think I'll invite a friend over to walk me through the process this first time. The setting is the same on both sides so armed with a feeler gauge and new gasket we'll take a look. The real problem is letting the engine cool enough to work on it.