How to remove stuck backhoe bucket tooth?

[Richard]

I lost a tooth on my backhoe bucket. No problems, I decide to replace them all and the dealer says I just punch out the pin, put new tooth on and put new pin back in. Sounds simple enough

Well, 3 hours later [img]/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img], I finally have all the pins out and two of the four teeth removed. Seems TWO of the teeth are stuck to the peg. I’ve sprayed PB blaster, I’ve “torched it” (in as much as I can with my propane (map gas) solder flame used for plumbing) I’ve banged on them with a 2 pound hammer and the darn boogers just laugh in my face as though they were welded on [img]/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img].

Anyone know of a secret to remove a stubborn tooth, absent seeing a dentist?

I’ve since opted to leave the pins out hoping that simply USING the hoe will knock them off (presuming rusted together). I see absolutely ZERO signs of ANY welding, tack or other. So far with the test dig I did, the two recalcitrant teeth scoffed my attempts of removing them [img]/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]

Dang, that Polygrip must be good stuff…

Oh, the old teeth were lets say 4 inches tall and the new ones are maybe 8 inches tall…seems the old ones have been worn to a nub. Now with two eight inch teeth and two four inch teeth, my bucket looks a bit awkward. Somewhat bucktooth’ish

[PineRidge]

Richard since you already have the pins out maybe what you need is a much bigger hammer and a cold chisel. Watch those fingers though! [img]/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]

[OkieG]

More heat might help.

A tooth came off my BackHoe bucket (tooth was still in good shape) and a couple other teeth were loose. No pins on these teeth. Each tooth is welded onto a sleeve that fits on a bucket peg. The pegs have dimples in their sides. The sleeve wall of the tooth is dented into the dimple with a hammer and punch. No way could I do this with the metal cold, although I tried it that way at first. I have an oxy-propane torch, and heated the metal to red hot. The sleeve walls were easily punched into the dimples after heating.

If you can get them red hot, the metal will possibly be soft enough to hammer the tooth off without too much trouble. I also have a small propane torch, but I don't think it would get the metal hot enough. Good luck.

OkieG

[frank_f15]

i think u might need a bit more heat and a bigger hammer. as long as u don't see any weld on them, they should come off

[Richard]

Thanks all... I guess your thinking mirrored my basic thoughts. I've been scratching my head with "what do I have around here that I can use" and I've come up with some more ideas... I simply don't have the means to really heat it myself, so I think I'm going to try the get a bigger hammer method. I DO happen to have (what I belive to be) a cold chisel...like 4 inch across, perhaps 6 inches, with handle and the deflector thing that goes on the hammer side of the handle to help save errant swings with the hammer [img]/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] Dont' ask me why I chose that model over the others

[img]/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

[DiskDoctr]

Richard,

Try snagging the back of the tooth on an edge while extending the hoe or bucket to push the tooth off. This will exert much more force than a hammer.

The problem is catching the edge of the tooth. You could try a chain over the tooth attached to one of the stabilizers, etc.

It really depends upon the size of your backhoe.

Depends on a lot of things how well it will work. Hope these suggestions help.

Good luck.

-JC

[Ozarker]

Have you tried an air chisel?

[markct]

do you have an angle grinder or air cutoff tool, simply cut the tooth in half lengthwise and it should come right off, might take a while but with no way to heat it red hot you dont have too many other choices

[v8dave]

A 2 pound hammer just seems too puny. If you don't already have one get a 6 or 8 pound sledge hammer.

So you won't be pounding on the joints and hydraulic cylinders, block the bucket off the ground, with the teeth pointing down. Get a piece of angle iron or bar stock and tape it to the back of the bucket with the edge on one of the reluctant teeth (using duct tape of course).

Wind up and whack that tooth using a full swing. The impact will exert multiple tons of force, more that you'll ever get out of digging or using the 2 pound hammer with a short handle. Use the tape for safety reasons, it will give when the tooth finally moves.

Of course if you are still heating the tooth you'll have to figure out to hold the jig together another way. A "C" clamp and extension finger maybe. Don't clamp the driving rod directly, it may fracture if the tooth gives. Clamp a piece of flat bar (the finger) that extends to hold the driving rod.

Dave

[OkieG]

You know, I was just reading markct's post about not being able to heat red hot and it reminded me of a little oxy-acetylene torch set for sale at Home Depot or Lowe's. Very compact, but could be great for occasional use. I assume it comes with the gases. Putting some heat on the teeth will sure make the hammering go easier.

OkieG