Help with F150 rough idle/hesitation/vibration

   / Help with F150 rough idle/hesitation/vibration #21  
My wifes '96 Taurus did this. Ruined a brand new studded snow tire. Luckly my wife was only doing 25 mph when it happened. Also lucky for her (and me /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif) she had our 3 week old son in the car and some stopped to help her change the tire, this was during a blizzard.
 
   / Help with F150 rough idle/hesitation/vibration
  • Thread Starter
#22  
<font color="blue">Do you wash your engine compartment? </font>

Never.

Ran OK again this morning.

Does the Autozone free code scan catch pending codes? I'm pretty sure the dealer shot the computer when I had it in. They didn't mention anything about a miss-fire code.

One thing that isn't sitting right with me is if it is a miss-fire, then why does it go away if I push harder on the pedal? Does the computer tell the coil something different under hard acceleration?? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Maybe there is a loose connection that gets re-connected as the engine moves a little (torque twist).
 
   / Help with F150 rough idle/hesitation/vibration #23  
Bird
Yes it is the coil springs. No they don't fix it until it breaks.
Then they are all accomodating and helpful and pay for the repairs and the towing. (evidently, ford didn't learn from the Pinto).

Actually as I wrote above, on some models they installed a kluge sort of basket to hold all the bits together when it breaks. This minimizes the collateral damage. I had never even heard of a coil spring breaking prior to when it happened to us.

To the best of my knowlegde, there is a good chance it affects your Winstar too. Ours only broke in late 2002 and I got the sense that they only starting realzing they had a problem.

All these refer to 1996 - 1997 http://www.thecomplaintstation.com/f/ford_toc.htm

It one of these that isn't a problem, but when it becomes a problem its a big problem.
 
   / Help with F150 rough idle/hesitation/vibration #24  
I'm just curious as to why the tech hung an IAC. If I was going to hang a part, and I grew out of hanging parts years ago, I would have hung a throttle position sensor. I've had them go buggy and cut the EGR on at the wrong time and other really interesting stuff. That's after they checked out OK using a lab scope, pulling codes and just about anything else I could think of at the time. If it was a pre- OBD II truck I would plug the EGR line and see if the problem went away. If he does this with OBD II it is going to mess with the next tech to work on it when he takes it to another shop or if he goes to Auto Bone to pull codes. Then again, if he doesn't run a complete drive cycle with it disconnected it won't matter. I'm a little rusty, I've been out of this for a few years but I still do a few problem cars here and there. Hazmat, find a golf tee, run the truck around for a while, get out and plug the EGR vacuum line and see if the problem goes away. Once you figure out if the problem is gone, pull the tee and hook the line back up. Somebody else, however, would have to tell you where it is because I wouldn't know where it is on that year Ford without looking at it. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
   / Help with F150 rough idle/hesitation/vibration #25  
Bgott- The misfire monitor system looks for a certain number of misfires within a set number of crankshaft revolutions. If the misfire ceases, even momentarily, the counter resets. It is quite common to have a misfire with no codes set, simply because the misfire isn't steady enough to meet the programmed criteria. I would estimate that about one out of every four or five vehicles I work on with a miss don't have a code stored in the PCM.

Derek- Actually the coating on the throttle body isn't supposed to prevent the buildup of sludge, it's just to control it's effects. As the sludge builds up, it can prevent the throttle plate from closing all the way. The idea was to make everything so slippery that the sludge wouldn't have anything to hang on to and the big chunks would just fall away and not pack together like snow balls. At least that's what the engineers told me. It's actually Teflon-based, and I haven't found anything that removes it despite what Ford says we shouldn't do. My previous comment was just to make sure that Stephen didn't think he got cheated because it wasn't cleaned when it was in the shop. And yes, I hear you about fixing other people's problems. I just finished a truck that one of our other "technicians" was working on for over four days (and installed $1100 in parts.) The manager dumped it on me after reaching his frustration point (2004 F150 with 500 miles on it and a really upset new owner.) Fixed in less than an hour. MY reward? I got chewed out because I wanted to leave 20 minutes early to get to my chiropractor before he closed.

Stephen- The demands on the ignition system vary greatly depending on engine operating conditions. During a warm cruise or gentle acceleration, the PCM runs the engine with a lean mixture and high EGR flow. Both of these conditions require a long, hot spark due to the relatively large distance between fuel molecules in the cylinder. If there aren't enough molecules between the gap in the spark plug, the flame won't propagate because the next fuel molecule isn't close enough to pass the flame on. Under harder acceleration, the PCM richens the mixture causing more molecules to be present in the plug gap and this actually allows the mixture to light more readily. Now, if your coil is getting weaker and not giving a long, hot spark and just giving a short little "click" of a spark, it may not be enough to get things going in the cylinder. Of course, you having a weak coil is all just theory at this point and I am just speculating based on my experiences.

If it is a bad coil, the concern will progressively get worse until it finally gives out or the PCM threshold is reached and it sets a code. As someone else stated, a code just tells you what's out of spec, it doesn't tell you the cause or how to fix it. So even if you went to Autozone or some other place to pull the code, it is just another clue in the puzzle, not the solution.

Jay
 
   / Help with F150 rough idle/hesitation/vibration #26  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I just finished a truck that one of our other "technicians" was working on for over four days (and installed $1100 in parts.) The manager dumped it on me after reaching his frustration point (2004 F150 with 500 miles on it and a really upset new owner.) Fixed in less than an hour. MY reward? I got chewed out because I wanted to leave 20 minutes early to get to my chiropractor before he closed.
)</font>

That's why I like where I am! My problem is I get stuff thats been around to all the other shops and I'm suppose to fix it. Usually the original problem is easy to fix its the problems that occured during other repair attempts.

About the teflon coating... I'm usually careful when removing, using only a "spray" no brushes unless its really bad. I use stuff from MotorVac. Are the idle speed motors coated too?

Have you had any luck scoping the primary side of the COP systems to find a weak or bad coil?

The misfire monitors are funny. AS far as I'm aware the need to meet minimum requirements per ferdal law. But some manufacturers' are more sensitive.

BTW... I'm looking for a tech in my shop... Looking to recolate /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif??
 
   / Help with F150 rough idle/hesitation/vibration #27  
Sounds like you all know what you're talking about, I would maybe think of pulling the coils & plugs and checking each plug for the tail tale sign of miss fire... "black wet carboned up. "

that would be cheaper than replacing the coil and finding it still acts up...

(also someone was talking COIL SPRINGS? not sure why unless i missed soemthing else, as when others are talking COIL we mean the Ignition COIL which well one has very little to do with miss firing on the engine where as the other does. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I'm watching this intently thanks as I've got a 91 f150 with 300 6cyl. it has high idle problems and seems to go away when it feels like it. (but there is a bunch of under dash electrical gremlins too, little buggers stop the windods & locks form working one min and then keep the wipers form going on low the next.!)

anyhwo keep up the good work guys. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Mark M
 
   / Help with F150 rough idle/hesitation/vibration #28  
That sounds like you have a ground problem. The under dash problems, anyway. But I would check the computer grounds, too.
 
   / Help with F150 rough idle/hesitation/vibration #29  
<font color="blue"> My wifes '96 Taurus did this </font>

Rowski;

I think that Ford did a recall in the last month or so regarding Taurus's for this problem. I think they blamed corrision in the Northeast for it.


web page
 
   / Help with F150 rough idle/hesitation/vibration #30  
thx: bgott:

yes, not sure if it is a ground carroded or a broken feed wire, one thing is for sure power STOPS when it feels like it. I'm kind of leaning twards the broken/carroded power feed wire as it gets WORSE when it rains, (just what you need when the wipers decide to NOT work huh! lol)

/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Mark M
 
 
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