Ford 2000 3cyl gas-wont stay running

[Bullfrog66]

Howdie, I have a Ford 2000 3-cyl gas job, I had to replace carb (one bar holley), rebuilt distributor, I drained and cleaned gas tank, installed a in line gas filter between gas tank and fuel pump, cleaned out fuel lines, replaced generator, replaced voltage regulator, now it will start, but within a few seconds it shuts off again. I also installed new plugs. It acts as if it is running out of gas. I have cleaned fuel lines and drained gas tank for the second time, with no difference. I disconnect gas line at the fuel sight glass filter, and spin the engine over and it is pumping gas. What am I over looking? Could the coil cause this? It is a fairly new coil, not brand new. Thanks, Bullfrog

 

[SteveV]

Sounds like you need to spend a moment looking for the fuse for the 'on' or 'run' position of the ignition switch. Do you remember any sparks while working on the distributor? That would have taken out the fuse. The ignition is working in the start position and shuts off as the switch returns to run. Got 12 volts for the field of the alternator (generator)? Otherwise its back to the basics, a lot of stuff was messed with all at once. Good luck SteveV /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[RickB]

Look for a failing resistance wire in the ignition circuit.

 

[Bullfrog66]

[ Do you remember any sparks while working on the distributor? The ignition is working in the start position and shuts off as the switch returns to run.
It doesnt shutoff imediatedly when I release key back to the run-on position, it will run for approximately 5 or 7 secs.

Got 12 volts for the field of the alternator (generator)?
How to check for 12 volts? Does it have to be running for it to have 12 volts? Or are you talking about the battery being fully charged and supplying 12 volts to the coil?

The original problem was the carb, the tractor sat up without the money for the carb for about a year, the generator was old and needed to be rebuilt soon, but being it sat up for so long, I went ahead and bought a new one-(got a real good deal on one). As for the rest of the replacements, I thought that being it sat up, it probably needed these things done also.
Otherwise its back to the basics, a lot of stuff was messed with all at once. Good luck SteveV /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )</font>
Any and all ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Bullfrog

 

[Bullfrog66]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Look for a failing resistance wire in the ignition circuit. )</font>
Howdie could you ellaborate a litte bit more, Please? How to check for this? I am a ole truck driver, I know a good bit about mech's, but just a little about the elec's about a system. Thanks Bullfrog

 

[SteveV]

I can lend a hand here. The spark coil is a 6 volt coil on a 12 volt system by design, cuz when you're cranking it over, that's about all that's available in a 12 volt battery. So, in the start position the coil is connected direct to battery. In the on run position, the coil is connected to the battery through a resistor to drop the voltage back to 6 volts. This keeps from burning up the coil. For troubleshooting, run a jumper from 12v to the coil to bypass any problems until you find out whats going on.
To test if its a fuel problem, take out the can of wd40, the engine should continue to run as long as you spray into the air intake. That would tell you its fuel trouble rather than ignition. Other thought would be to take the potato out of the tail pipe. Gotta have air flow. SteveV /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[jinman]

I think your tractor is suffering from fuel starvation as you mentioned in your original post. If you have been working on the carb, it's likely that is where your problem is. Can you disconnect the fuel line at the carb and let it drain fuel into a container? That will tell you if you are getting a constant supply. If the flow slows and stops, you have to go backwards toward the tank. It doesn't take much trash to stop up a valve or small orifice.

Does the carb have a float chamber drain plug? On the old Marvel Shebler carbs, you could just pull the plug and watch fuel drain steadily to ensure a constant supply. If your carb has a settling bowl right at the carb inlet. I'd also remove the bowl and make sure that fuel flows freely there by opening the petcock and watching for constant flow.

If you are getting a constant supply to the carb, you must have a tiny bit of trash stopping up a fuel orifice. Perhaps as the engine vibrates, it disturbs a small amount of trash and it gets sucked over an opening. Since you disturbed the fuel lines and float chamber in the carb, it's entirely possible you still have some trash playing havoc with your fuel feed.

Finally, if you put a little fuel into a squirt bottle and open the line from the breather, you can squirt a small amount of fuel into the intake when the tractor dies. If fuel starvation is your problem, it should immediately try to restart when cranked over.

I just think everthing you've said points at fuel starvation and it can be frustrating trying to find that little piece of trash. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

<font color="purple"> You did say that fuel was being pumped. If your 2000 model doesn't have gravity feed fuel, you can disregard the comments about checking the lines. I think it's the float valve that's sticking. What year model 2000 is your tractor? </font>

 

[RickB]

Not sure exactly where the resistance wire is other than between the key switch and coil; buried in the harness. There are three screens in the fuel system. One inside the tank attached to the shutoff valve. one in the fuel pump inlet. Pump is between the generator and thermostat housing. And one in the inlet elbow at the carb. All this in addition to the sediment bowl.

 

[Bullfrog66]

Thanks again for all the quick reply's and help. The tractor is between a 64 and 75 model, it is a holley #R4119 one bbl. I went back out and started up the tractor and had my buddy spray a little starting fluid in breather when it acted like it was gonna shut down, and it would stay running. So hey Thanks, I made a little head way. Now I took out the plug on the bottom of the carb bowl, and a couple of drops of gas came out. So hey another step forward. Now does anyone have a instruction sheet of what is on the inside and how to tear it down and the adjustments after I get it cleaned and ready to put back together. Like a expanded view picture of parts. Any kind and ALL Help is greatly preciated. Thanks Bullfrog, Ya'll are Great!

 

[woodlot]

Re-read Rick's post, check those 3 filters. Also, I'm not sure how that tank is vented, through the tank or at the cap, but check that too.