Removing PTO shaft w/ heat - will Mapp torch work?

[lhfarm]

I have an implement end PTO shaft (old bush hog mower) that is seized and/or rusted on. I don't have a torch set and was considering a Mapp torch sold at Lowes. A few questions:
1. Will one of these torches get the u-joint hot enough to do any good?
2. Assume it will, is the method heat and beat - should I get the u-joint hot, then tap on the wings to start the slide-off process?
3. Is there a non-heat method I might try?
I need to replace the front u-joint coupler and that will be $140 (old-odd size according to the local u-joint shop), so I'm thinking a new shaft would be better. I am also concerned that the shear bolt is pretty useless at this point and I don't want to damage my new tractor.
Thanks,

 

[Soundguy]

First.. mapp.. ues.. it should get hot enough for all but the real stubborn stuff. i use a plain propane hand torch, and have taken many an old tractor and dis / plow apart with that, pb blaster, and a drift and maul.

I like to heat a joint, then cool it with the pb.. the pb tends to really draw into the crevises during this time.. plus the cooling tends to break the rust free.

Now.. that said.. if this is the yoke on the end of the gearbox shaft.. I'm pretty sure the heat will damage the seal /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif... I'd try to do it without heat, and with no beating 'down' on the shaft...

By nay chance is there a circlip or ering holding the yoke on.. my K mower gearbox / yoke has that. I'd use pd, and a bunch of 'tapping' with say.. like a welding or tack hammer.. if you have one of those vibro-air guns.. that may help.

Even a gear puller if you have the u joint apart.. cente rthe puller on the shaft, and set the jawas around the base of the yoke.

Soundguy

 

[em14]

I don't think a MAPP torch will get it hot enough ... but who knows. I would first spray PB Blaster in the splines, let it sit for a little bit and while it is soaking in, tap the sides of the coupler splines where they are froozen to the PTO shaft .... then try to tap it loose by hitting the joint with the hammer or see if you can wedge something like a wood splitter (wood wedge) between the end of the coupling and the impliment housing. PB Blaster is pretty amazing stuff and has worked great for me. Try you tractor/farm store or auto parts store to get it. Good luck!
Leo

 

[em14]

BTW ... be sure you get the shear bolt out and replace it with a new one when you can or sooner /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Leo

 

[lhfarm]

I'm a big PB Blaster fan (we are restoring old jeeps). The yoke appears to be a round bore and I can't see a ring clip. The end of the shaft is even with the yoke.
The shear bolt came right out.
Maybe a little gentle heat would help draw the PB Blaster in. I hadn't considered possible heat damage to the seal /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif.
Thanks,

 

[mrcaptainbob]

If you plan to change out that yoke end anyway....feel free to destroy it. Take a cutoff wheel to it and to the fourway. Then you can grab the yoke on the splines with a gear puller and, along with PB, you should manage that thing right off. Get a new assembly from TSC to fit the d/shaft and splines and you're good t'go.

 

[Charolais]

That sounds like my kind of plan. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Cut a slot in each side and then use a chisel or such to drive in the slots. It'll split if it's cut deep enough. Just don't cut into the shaft. I've also used a sazall when a hand grinder wouldn't fit in a tight place.

 

[lhfarm]

It's off! It took a soaking in BP Blaster, a 5lb sledge and a bad day at work. The bad day work sent me home in a foul mood and beating the crap out of that shaft felt great! I'm sure I would have stopped much sooner any other day. But once I saw a tiny bit of movement, I just didn't want to stop. Only took about 20 minutes of constant pounding. Boy do I feel better! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I do have a question. The shaft was keyed, but there was also a shear bolt. For safety, should there be one and not the other? I always though it was just held on by a shear bolt. There is no slip clutch.

Thanks,

 

[Soundguy]

Weird to have a keyed shaft and a bolt. Perhaps you use the keyway if you use an additional slip clutch.. and the bolt if not?

Hope the shaft seal and bearings survived!

Soundguy

 

[lhfarm]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Weird to have a keyed shaft and a bolt. Perhaps you use the keyway if you use an additional slip clutch.. and the bolt if not?

Hope the shaft seal and bearings survived!

Soundguy )</font>
I pounded out and away on the u-joint wings, not down on the shaft. But I did pound /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif! I am headed to TSC this morning to find a replacement driveline. I am debating adding a clutch. The two tractors that have pulled it would stall when something stopped the mower. My new TC40DA has lots more torque and I'm worried something will break.