Stumped on StumpJumper

[BustedKnuckles]

I am a eager but consummate newbie.
I bought an old 5' KingKutter rotary cutter which is my first renovation project. It's full of rust and needs a complete disassembly.
I used penetrating oil and lots of hammer blows to all parts and after the requisite waiting and finger smashing, I removed all pieces except one critical area, the stump jumper/blade holder assembly.
The manual shows a number of things attached to the shaft output (including bearing and bearing race outputs, and various seals etc.) The shaft has 12 splines and will not disengage, therefore I can't remove the gear housing from the otherside or the blade assembly from underneath.
Are there any lock mechanisms involved or is the unit simply rusted in place. Sledgehammer doesn't budge it.
I thought the pan was supposed to simply come off.
Am I missing something?
As I said this is my first entry to this addictive tractor world and would appreciate any thoughts shared.

 

[EddieWalker]

Don't know about Kingkutter, but Landpride is real helpful when calling them. Try giving the company a call and ask one of their peopel. I bet they will be very helpful.

Eddie

 

[Charolais]

I have a 7' KingKutter and I've had the stump jumper off. Had the bolts that holds the gear box to the deck get loose and couldn't reach the bolt heads (to tighten) without removing the stump jumper.

I didn't have any problem removing it but the machine was only 2 years old. And the nut that holds the SJ on was never tightened proper when new. So I lucked out so to speak.

All that was holding it on was a nut, maybe a washer(can't remember) and the cotter pin through the nut and shaft. If my memory serves me the output shaft that goes in the stump jumper is a tapered spline. They can be pretty tough to get off if rusty. I had a 1217 JD hay conditioner with the same type shaft. I worked on it for two mornings. I then made a puller to remove it. When it finally broke free it flew off the shaft and darn glad I wasn't in front of it. It made a loud pop and landed about 6 feet from the conditioner.

If you can turn the cutter upside down and use something like Sea Foam penetrate it may help. But it needs to soak for a while and you will need to apply over and over again as it's soaked up by the rust. When you use the hammer use it on the hub of the stump jumper up on the top side. Turn the shaft as you use the hammer so it'll break the rust loose all the way around the hub.

Also if you have access to a good drill and taps, you can make a puller. Be careful. It took two of us to get that 7 foot cut back on the gear box. Those things are heavy.

 

[Slamfire]

I suggest PB Blaster as a penetrant, it contains an enzyme that eats rust. If it is a 3 point hitch model tip it forward onto the part that connects to the tractor. Keep workin[' on it. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[BustedKnuckles]

Thanks for the feedback!
I kept soaking all areas with PB, set up a come-along and yoke to pull from the jumper side, knocked out a welded bolt access hole to pull the assembly up and closer to the frame and was able to undo small bolts (went through a pack of sawzall blades to cut one that rotated and couldn't be shimmed) that held on the gear box housing. The gears themselves were in fine shape but resisted releasing from the housing bore. One more swift knock with a hammer sent the entire jumper flying in all its glory.
You know what they say about time, patience and being bull-headed. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I knew that posting on this forum would bring good luck!
Thanks again---happy tractoring.

 

[Charolais]

I hear you! Never give up.

While you have the stump jumper off, look at the nuts on the shoulder bolts that holds the blades on. Mine are spot welded from the factory. Just curious if the older models were also. I've owned Bush Hog and Hardee brands and hadn't seen the spot weld on those brands.

 

[renz]

Hadn't heard of PB, but just wondering if anyone has used Kroil from Kano Labs. I've used it for years and it's never ever failed to do the job. Tried to give some to a welder friend from the local nuclear power plant, and he already knew about it - said they swear by it over there. If it's good enough to help keep that plant from going PHOOF, it's good enough for me!

Kano Labs

 

[TractorLegend]

Try this on rusted crunk: Heat it up with a torch (propane one may work for you) and apply a birthday candle to the threads and it will get in places you'd be amazed.

 

[Slamfire]

If you look up the Material Safety Data Sheet for Kroil you'll find it is food grade mineral oil. Slick marketing since the 1920s. But what oil is the thnnest? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[BustedKnuckles]

There's one more old bolt right on the blade sitting there, taunting, looking me in the eye. I've fished that pond before.
It's the biggest and most corroded. No spot welds anywhere.
I'm trying the propane, candle, mineral oil and whatever else I can get my hands on. I've seen some folks recommend spearmint oil as well. Open-minded.
I like the challenge, but I do own a drill (and am not afraid to use it!) /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif