U Joint Removal Tip

[boustany]

Not strictly tractor related, but useful for all U-joints

I had to replace the rear U-joint on my 4Runner. 4Runner U-joints come in at least 2 types: 'innies' where the U-joint is inside the circ clip and 'outies' where the circ clip is inside the U-joint.

As luck would have it, I had a 'outie' which I had never encounted before. I pulled the driveshaft off, and proceeded to remove the U-joint using the old 'socket and a vise' method for pushing the end cap through. This usually works, though it can be a pain in the butt because the U-joint is heavy and you have to support the floppy part while setting everything up.

Anyhow, because of the dimensions of the U-joint, having to do with it being an 'outie' the shoulder of the joint would bottom before the cap came fully out. I fought with this for an hour, back and for, and it wouldn't give. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Then I thought 'what am I thinking?'. I pulled the joint out of the vise and decided to ignore hundreds of auto repair textbooks, shop classes, etc., and developed a new technique for U-joint removal. (well new for me ....)

I folded the shaft at the joint, took my 5" grinder and cut the 4 posts of the U-joint. Then I pushed out the end caps.

This took maybe 5 minutes and is guaranteed to work. I will never even try the old method again.

(Patent pending). /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[JimR]

You are so correct in stating that. Here's what I found out recently on hard to change joints. When I bought my 94 Ford F250 4x4 a few months ago. The guy told me it needed the inner front axle u-joint replaced. He said the easiest way to change this was to blue knife (cutting torch) it out. Otherwise I would have had to pull the right front wheel and hub assembly to take the shaft out. I'm glad I listened and did as he mentioned. It was a breeze to slice out the cross-shaft and remove the caps. The new one was pretty easy to install also in the vehicle.

 

[ZJ_HR]

On outer secured crosses take retaining rings out, use round piece of copper or brass and push cross from one side to other by hitting round piece slightly with hammer. When cross came to one side of U joint, push cross to opposite side, by buy leaning horizontal yoke on clamp, and carefully hit upper part of vertical yoke (to push opposite bearing on top). Then easy pull out cross.
Before, if possible, hit some grease through the zerk, to avoid flying out needles of bearing. Carefully collect them before you loose it, and don't mix them between both bearings.

This is way how I did it several times, when changing damaged yoke and keep same cross, and it worked perfectly for me.

 

[mark1]

One thing my boss taught me years ago about U joints was that after installing them into the yokes "smack" the yoke with a good smack to relief the stress put on them by the install. I found after pushing the caps on sometimes they would be a little stiff, but after a good smack they were free and easy.and would last. (works on the kids too! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif)

 

[mrcaptainbob]

Yep. That's true, all right. Same goes for those bearings!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I do that when reassembling starters, or most anything that has similar type bearings. A well placed 'tap' will align them. ( the bearings!)