Suggestions for Installing a Clutch...

[Iplayfarmer]

I got the parts for my new clutch. I got a pressure plate, disk, and release bearing.

Does anyone have advice or suggestions to help me make sure I do this right?

I appreciate the suggestions in a different thread about adjusting the fingers. Are there places I need to lubricate with a special grease? Torque specifications? Anything else I should check while I've already got the baby torn apart?

All suggestions would be appreciated. I hope to get this done Saturday.

 

[Glenn9643]

If you don't have a manual I would suggest reviewing some of the posters on the Iseki forum and send out some PM's to see if you can come up with the appropriate guidance.

 

[AntrimMan]

Yep,
check the play between the input shaft and pilot bearing. Replace the bearing if is badly worn.
Apply a very thin film of high temp grease to the splines on the input shaft and the collar where the release bearing rides.
Apply a liberal coat of high temp grease to the fingers on the release bearing fork and to the ball socket on the release bearing fork pivot.
Be sure there are no heat checks in the flywheel face.
Torque screws to spec. Use new flywheel bolts if you have removed them (kinda optional).
Thats it off the top of my head, others may have further suggestions.
All the best,
Martin

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I do have the manual. It's somewhat helpful.

I'm also looking for some tried and true advice that's not always in the manuals. You know?... like, "Always drink upstream from the heard." That kind of stuff.

Thanks too, Martin, for your advice. Keep it coming.

I've got one question already. How big of a deal is it to resurface the flywheel? I checked it out, and it looks all smooth. It's just polished where the clutch disk has worn. I tried half-heartedly with a smaller impact wrench to get it off, but the front half of the tractor is a little precarious the way I've got it supported. I didn't want to go laying on a cheater bar to get the flywheel bolts off and have the whole tractor end up in my lap.

 

[AntrimMan]

It's not a big deal to re-face the flywheel. Your involvement will be limited to getting it off, taking it to a well known established outfit that does this sort of thing all the time, and getting it back on. If there is nothing in the way of scoring or heat checking and the ring gear is useable, I would leave well enough alone.
If you remove it the first thing to do is make sure it is not hiding a crack some where. Put the shaft of a hammer throught the hole and rest one end of the shaft on the bench and hold the other end. Rap the free hanging flywheel with a plastic screwdriver handle. The flywheel should ring like a bell. A dull thud needs to be checked out by a professional. Whoever grinds the face will check for this anyway if he is worth his salt.
I personally have never used an impact wrench on crank bolts. I lock the ring gear with a bolt on plate, make one or they sell 'em, and use the breaker bar and a six point impact socket. Torque the bolts upon installation.
Whatever you decide just don't go to a fly by night operation. If they blanchard grind the face and don't set it up properly you will not be happy. The flywheel side of the disc surface must run parallel to the crank flange or life can suck. Try Napa, they may have a local source, it's not as cheap as bringing it to the shop by yourself because of the mark-up, but may be more convienient.

All the best,
Martin

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I still haven't got my clutch in. Rain, visiting relatives, and my two fun kids with a train set kept me from it yesterday; but I've got a new question....

What can I use to line up the clutch disk with the fly wheel?

The manual says to use a "Centering Tool" to line the clutch disk up correctly. I don't have a centering tool that I know of. I know when I replaced the clutch in my truck I had an extra input shaft from an old transmission that I used to line up the disk. This time I don't have that.

Any ideas?

 

[Glenn9643]

Some auto parts stores carry a variety of "centering tools" or alignment tools that are pretty cheap, made of plastic, in several sizes/spine arrangements. If you're lucky you might can find one that fits.
Found this set at JC Whitney, for example.

 

[KennyV]

Centering tools are handy… BUT I have installed many clutch disc and pressure plates using the outside of the pressure plate to line the clutch disc. Takes a few seconds more but I have never had problems not using a centering tool. However if you think you will need it, KD tools makes a ‘universal’ centering tool with various tips and ends… cheap at most auto parts outlets.
While you are in there, I would definitely replace the pilot bearing… KennyV.

 

[boomer4snow]

I would suggest some loc-tite for any bolts that you R&R. They seem to have a way of working loose for me. For a field fix, a small hunk of dowel rod can work as a clutch alignment tool, but the universal auto shop deals work ok too.

 

[skipmarcy]

If you don't have or can't afford to buy a clutch alignment tool, here is something you can do to get you by. Take a 3/8" drive extension and find a 3/8" drive socket that will fit into your pilot bearing, put the socket on the extension. Wrap some electrical tape around the shank of the extension where the splines of the clutch disc meet it when it is all in place. Build up the tape until it just slips thru the splines in the disc - this will help you get it real close, shouldn't have too much trouble getting the trans. back in as long as you have your "angle of the dangle" right when you go shoving it in. Also, tighten the pressure plate bolts gradually, in an opposing pattern, until they are torqued. Don't just start tightening the bolts all the way down or tighten them in a circular pattern. Most pressure plate bolts have loc washers, no need for LocTite here, but if you do remove the flywheel, use some LocTite there as they normally don't have loc washers. Once again, tighten in an opposing pattern, don't go around in a circle. Personally, I always use a "moly" grease on the release bearing collar and also use an acid brush to put a very fine film of it on the splines of the trans. Also just the lightest touch of it on the tip of the input shaft, that goes into the pilot bearing - just to help on installation a little. Don't overdo it anywhere on the grease - you don't want any to get on the clutch - remember it will sling it off when running.