jinma electrical problem

[jboyce]

I have an intermittent bad connection in the wiring of a JM 224, such that no power goes to the ignition switch, dash is dead, and no power to starter solenoid. tractor will turn over when the solenoid is shorted across the terminals. Poor connection seems to be in fuse panel. Tapping on it will bring power back but I can't find a bad connection. HOw do I check it out further.

I note recommendations to replace ignition switch and the instructions on one of the links refer to wire numbers, where do I find these wire numbers on the actual wires themselves?

 

[Soundguy]

You'd find way better help in the chinese section.. however this is such a basic electrical problem... so here goes.

Obviously you have a loose contact in the main fuse panel.. should be easy to trace with a VOM or test lamp. Find incoming power wire.. start checking circuit branches.. when you find branches with no power and good fuses.. the 'open' is there at that point. May be as little as bent contacts not holding the fuses correctly.. or bad wire crimped ends not making contacts with holders.. Absolute worst case scenereo, is thayt you buy a 1$ wire with built in inline fuse holder, and wire that from battery power to the incoming line on your dash to bypass bad power from the fuseblock till you have time to troubleshoot it correctly, or someone gives you the wire color/number for you to check.. just use the same size and rating of fuse that the manual shows the das as needing.. I'd even remove the oem dash fuse from the panel during the time you have it bypassed...

Soundguy

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

jboyce, I have tried to attach a picture of the back side of the ingition switch.

If you have the old style fuses you may want to up grade to the new automotive style fuses.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply.

 

[ejtaylor822]

I am going to echo soundguy here a little bit.

Check your fuses real good. A blown, or loose main (30 AMP) will cause what you are describing. If it were me I would go ahead and replace just to be sure.

Key item here - DOUBLE CHECK YOUR CRIMPS! I had an intermittent starting problem. Gave a pull on one of the wires on the back of the alternator and it came right out of the crimp! It was making just enough contact to provide a charge. Took the plastic sleeve off the connector and it looks like when it was crimped it cut the wire. The plastic sleeve will keep it in place, but, it's not a good reliable connection. Give your wires a good check.

 

[3RRL]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Key item here ...It was making just enough contact to provide a charge. Give your wires a good check.)</font>

This is a key item because...
I had a similar problem with intermittant problems. When I checked the system with a voltmeter I got good readings and could not find the problem that way. I ended up tugging on every wire and soon found out that a loose ground wire to my headlights was the culprit. The wire was connected but not tight enough to give a constant connection as I could rotate it by hand.
After tightening it, everything worked fine. I was relieved because it was such annoyance and ended up being an easy fix. The last thing I wanted to do was spend a couple of hours trying to trace down the problem, so I also made sure all the electrical connections were tightend down securely. Have had no problems since.

 

[jboyce]

I have gone the voltmeter route several times, but it seems that the intermittant malfunction is not malfunctioning whenever a voltmeter gets near. Have experience with poorly crimped wires; both of the smaller two wires on the starter solenoid had to have repairs on the connectors.

Jiggling wires suggests that the heavy white wire from solenoid to the main fuse in the panel is poorly connected to the fuse panel. Not sure at first glance how that wire is connected to the fuse panel contact. But, I do note that the large bundle of wires to and from the fuse panel go to a heavy connect/disconnect block that just hangs from the wires going to the fuse panel, and that the fuse panel is located above the engine such that engine vibration would be magnified as it was transmitted up the panel. Will try fix the poor connection, but will also try to figure out how to support the weight of the connector and wires without allowing them to just hang from the fuse panel connections.

How are the wires to the fuse panel actually attached to the panel contacts? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[jboyce]

excellent photo; thanks