Just going to chime in here. I have some experience with diesels, having built one. The one I built had a stock compression ratio of 22.5 to 1. The factory was very specific about how you measured the head to block arrangment, due to the fact they didn't want the compression ratio changing. You measured the head thickness, and then went to a factory chart to besure that you bought the correct head gasket. They were available in different thicknesses, so that you could match the one you needed to the engine. I also agree that it sounds like you timing maybe a bit advanced, and your injector nozzles may need cleaning. It's also a good idea to get your injectors checked for pressure. Doubt this helps much, but that's what I know about diesel heads. Some shops will heat a head up, then straighten it so that they don't have to flycut it straight. They also know that when the head heats up, it may warp back to where it wants to relax. Gasoline engines are so much more forgiving on this matter. Good Luck! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I am on the understanding that diesel manufacturers don't like their heads shaved more than .005", more than that, they want them to be straighten. Now that is an art form! What did they do with your original head. Sounds like they transfered your valves to another head. I hope they measured the valve stem taper, and it was well within specs. When a diesel engine goes together, it's usually for a very long time. Why not just get new valves, valve guides, stem seals, and do the entire job up right. By the time you include labor, the parts start look inexpensive. I wish you the best finding out the problem, and hope you don't have to pull the head again. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Diesels are also concerned with how deep the seats are cut, and the valves sunk into the head. I'm sure that the shop that did the work will reassure you that they checked that also.