Bolt removal

[sandman2234]

PB Blaster is awsome...
I would give every bolt a shot, and as much time as you can, then hit them with a torch to heat up one side or the other (as mentioned, differential heat is what works), then allow it to cool, put a box end or six point socket on it, and apply a little pressure to see if it will break loose.
Light continous tapping on the bolt while under a little wrench pressure will also help...
David from jax

 

[SPYDERLK]

X4 on the PB Blaster. Good stuff. I havent tried the Kroil or wax though. Ive got a couple projects coming up that may need some help. I think I'll give them a try. Where can I get the Kroil?

Kroil is good, but Ive got to try the PB Blaster and the wax idea. The Aero-Kroil cans have the worst valve I have ever encountered and this outrages me to such an extent that I would switch products immediately were I to find one equally effective.

I dont know why the studs would need to be replaced if he grinds or splits the nuts. Use an anti-sieze compound on the new nut and you will be able to get it off next time. Be sure you apply it to the threads only. If on the nut seat too it may loosen on its own.
Larry

 

[BB_TX]

I just did the same thing on my 1984 model tractor last year. I used a Dremel tool with with the thin flat cutting disk to cut the nuts. After getting the manifold off, I sprayed each stud with PB Blaster. Let it sit for a while. Then I heated the first stud. Put a pair of vice grips on it and tried to turn it. Would not budge. Did not want to break it off. So I began to gently wiggle the vice grips back and forth from loosening to tightening. After only a few gyrations, I felt the stud give a little. After a few more it loosened up and came right out. The next one I tried without heating. Same routine, same result, and just as fast as the one I heated. Took all the others out in the same manner without heating.
Just to give an indication of how bad mine were, I might add that the nuts were so rusted you could barely tell there were any flats on them, the ends of the studs were much smaller than the part inside the nut, and the nuts and studs looked as if they had melted and run together.

 

[Soundguy]

Pb blaster.. heat then cool.. perhaps heat then quench with pd.

Would be nice if they were brass nuts. Might also want to put never sieze on them after reinstall.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[patrick_g]

Just piling on... WD-40 which some folks use for everything (including spraying on their catfish bait... which really works by the way!) was designed to displace water... WD (Water Displacer) and although we have found several uses for it above and beyond the original military contract specifications it is a relatively poor penetrating oil. Sure it works way better than not using anything but it can't hold a candle to any of several products that are especially designed and marketed for freeing stuck parts. The "Blaster" is a good one as is "Liquid Wrench" and others. WD-40 is a poor substitute for the REAL THINGS. --------------------Pat

 

[sandman2234]

Funny how different parts of the country see things differently.
I was under the impression that the WD-40 name came from a request during WWII for a light weight lubricant to handle certain jobs as a penetrating oil. There were 39 previous entries tested before this one, and the war department labeled each entry as 1, 2, 3, etc. Consequently, the entry that was accepted was # 40, hench the name WD-40.
The actual makeup for the product seemed to have changed several years ago, (probably to exclude some EPA chemical restriction) and now has some qualities about it that I don't care for. However, as a lubricant for my cutting tools while milling or cutting aluminum, it excells, therefore I use a lot of it.
David from jax

 

[DieselPower]

From the WD-40 website.

"In 1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry, in a small lab in San Diego, California."

"It took them 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula worked out. But they must have been really good, because the original secret formula for WD-40—which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try—is still in use today."

Welcome to WD-40 * About Us: Our History

 

[sandman2234]

Guess that pretty much ends my tale of the War Department number 40, unless they were doing it for the war dept, which isn't mentioned. Many a small group has tried for a military contract, in hopes of striking it rich.
David from jax

 

[masscity]

I've never seen Kroil in a spray can, but my brother gave me the Kroil can with the plastic squirt nozzle. About a dozen years ago I bought a alluminum can with a spray nozzle. You can put any liquid in it and you power it by pumping it up with air pressure. I bought it from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool for about $10.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I've never seen Kroil in a spray can, but my brother gave me the Kroil can with the plastic squirt nozzle. About a dozen years ago I bought a alluminum can with a spray nozzle. You can put any liquid in it and you power it by pumping it up with air pressure. I bought it from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool for about $10.

The good thing about Kroil in a spray can is that it doesnt go rancid because theres no oxygen. The bad thing is the crummy valves they use that leak as you spray, wasting half the fluid. The stuff costs 7-$8 a can and the wasteful delivery is outrageous. Im going to try the PB Blaster.
Larry