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  1. #1
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    113
    Location
    Arkansas
    Tractor
    Massey-Ferguson 220-4

    Default Bolt removal

    Going to change my exhaust manifold. It has been on there since 1988 so I expect the bolts may not be in good shape. My plan it to take a side grinder and grind off one side of the nut or get a nut splitter and split the nuts. I will do this to keep from twisting off a manifold bolt.

    Does anyone have a suggestion for removing an exhaust manifold and not twist off the bolts. Is there something good to spray on them?

    Also if the bolts need to be replaced, any suggestions to remove them. In the past I have sprayed with some type of liqid wrench, tap on the end of the bolt with a hammer, and hope for the best. Any other suggestions.

    I hate to drill and ezy out a a broken bolt.

  2. #2
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,218
    Location
    South Central OK
    Tractor
    Kubota Grand L-4610HSTC

    Default Re: Bolt removal

    Well, you might have to hate part of the job as even after trying a number of GOOD ways to take it down some of the STUDS may break off. One good approach is to spay them liberally with Liquid Wrench and or similar penetrating loosening agents. I have even gone so far as to use tape and modeling clay to form a dam so I could soak manifold studs in the loosening liquids. The soaking is better done after the differential heating as the expansion and contraction can help break down the rust layer and make a way for the penetrant to get in. In describing various approaches you will see the term "sometimes" getting frequent play because sometimes one thing works and sometimes another. Sometimes (see!) heat can help. Actually I think it is differential heat that works the best. Just heating everything evenly doesn't do as well as heating the surrounding metal while keeping the rest cool. This tends to break the rust connecting the two pieces together. I'm not so sure I would be trying to remove the nuts from the studs or try to loosen them at all as they can make convenient handles for turning the studs out of their holes. Sure, some may come right off but any help is welcome. With luck, you won't have to drill out all the studs. If you think you feel a stud starting to yield (first stage of brreaking) stop straining it before it breaks. You can then cut it off neatly and be able to drill it in the center and not drill out the threads it is screwed into. If you have to drill one, start small and patiently and drill a nice deep small diameter hole and work youir way upo through drill sizes till you get a hole as large as possible without ruining the threads before you try the EZ-out. If you do ruin the threads you may be able to drill the hole out oversize and insert a "HELICOIL" to remake the threads. You will have to check the manifold to see if there is enough "MEAT" around the hole in question to allow drilling it out enough to take a larger stud which may be required. Good luck. It is not a fun task but with care it might go a bit easier. Patrick
    Never wrestle with a pig (however titled) as you just get dirty and the pig has all the fun.

  3. #3
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    196
    Tractor
    Kubota BX1500

    Default Re: Bolt removal

    Kroil oil is to Liquid Wrench as acetylene is to propane.
    Only avail on the net, but it is great.

  4. #4
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    583
    Location
    south/central Va.
    Tractor
    Deutz Fahr Agrofarm 100, Stoll loader, bucket, forks & root grapple

    Default Re: Bolt removal

    Most of the time I've found that if you tighten the nut just enough to hear a squeak they will then back off. That seems to break the rust. I use deep creep(sea foam) before trying this. My old friend that was an auto mechanic for 35 years told me that's how he did it. And I'll have to say it works pretty good. My son just removed them from a 1980-305 and didn't break a one. He could have been lucky too. LOL
    Charolais

  5. #5
    Gold Member OKnewguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    490
    Location
    Edmond, Oklahoma (OKC)
    Tractor
    Jinma 224

    Default Re: Bolt removal

    Maybe with a little luck some of the vintage tractor guys will see your thread, or you might ask over there. They have to be the masters at this, btw some guys use something like pb blaster or something that sounds like that.
    Dave

  6. #6
    Super Member texasjohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    5,041
    Location
    Central Texas, Jarrell
    Tractor
    Kubota 5030HSTC

    Default Re: Bolt removal

    YEP, I learned about PB Blaster on TBN.
    It's at auto parts stores.
    It's great for getting into rusted stuff.... WD 40 won't touch things that PB BLASTER makes easy... relatively. I recommend it.
    Joy is having the tools you need and needing the tools you have!

    Kubota 5030 HSTC, BB, Danueser PHD, LA853 QA HD FEL w JD toothbar, 3pt chisel, 3 pt disk, 6' shredder, Kubota FEL hay spike, 3pt hay fork w carryall, Kubota RTV 1140

  7. #7
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    516
    Location
    Princeton Tx.
    Tractor
    MF 1455v

    Default Re: Bolt removal

    Like Mike Lipke said, Aero Kroil will remove it easily. Just spray on and let set for a short time. I used it to remove manifold bolts from my 57 Allis Chalmers in about 1 hr with no effort. This stuff will even work on removing gauled stainless from stainless. Not sure what part of Texas your in but I have a new can in my garage.

    James

    "Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it."

  8. #8
    Elite Member DieselPower's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    2,761
    Location
    Fairfield, PA
    Tractor
    JD 3020, JD 4230, JD 7410, JD 2440, MF 750, NH LS170

    Default Re: Bolt removal

    I agree both Kroil and PB Blaster are both great penetrating oils. Here's a little tip to stick in your tool box though. Go to the grocery store (or steal it from your wife) and get a bar of caning wax. Heat the bolt thread area of the bolt you suspect will break off or that is already broken off with a propane torch. You don't need to get it glowing hot, just hot enough to melt the wax. Then take your stick of wax and touch it to the bolt or stud. You will be amazed how quickly the wax is drawn across the rusty bolt and into the threads. The wax when melted is super thin and the rust act's like a sponge and absorbs the molten wax. I had a old timer teach me this trick when I worked at a Internatinal truck dealer years ago. Probably the best trick I ever learned. I probably have more caning wax in my tool box's then most people that jar food.

  9. #9
    Banned
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    719
    Location
    Falling Waters, WV
    Tractor
    Kubota BX23

    Default Re: Bolt removal

    X4 on the PB Blaster. Good stuff. I havent tried the Kroil or wax though. Ive got a couple projects coming up that may need some help. I think I'll give them a try. Where can I get the Kroil?

  10. #10
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    516
    Location
    Princeton Tx.
    Tractor
    MF 1455v

    Default Re: Bolt removal

    Do a search on Yahoo or Google. You will find a lot of places to buy online. Also I think Granger carries it.

    Work is kind enough to donate to my cause.

    James

    "Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it."

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