Body Filler
- Thread starter F350
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dqdave1
Veteran Member
Probably the best would be a fiberglass reinforced body filler to withstand vibration. Make sure to sand area with at least a 60 grit paper to allow the filler to grip well.
DieselPower
Elite Member
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- Fairfield, PA
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The best place to get high quality body filler is at a store that caters to body shops. Alot of the local non chain store parts stores around me also have a very large assortment of body shop supplies and also mix paint to match. Find a store like this and ask the sales rep the question you asked here. Yesteryears bondo is not today's high performance body smothing compounds. Let them know exactly what you want to do with it and they should be able to square you away.
As perviously stated make sure to use a very course sand paper to prep the surface. Another key step to a lifelong bondo repair is surface cleaning prep. Once you think you have it cleaned clean it again. Any type of contamination from oil, grease, silicone and such will prevent it from bonding properly. Also, don't go to thick with it. Remember, bondo is for smothing a surface and not filling a crater.
If it's to thick (no more than a 1/4 inch) it will just fall out in time.
As perviously stated make sure to use a very course sand paper to prep the surface. Another key step to a lifelong bondo repair is surface cleaning prep. Once you think you have it cleaned clean it again. Any type of contamination from oil, grease, silicone and such will prevent it from bonding properly. Also, don't go to thick with it. Remember, bondo is for smothing a surface and not filling a crater.
If it's to thick (no more than a 1/4 inch) it will just fall out in time.
Knotbored
Silver Member
true story
Years ago I experimented making some body filler trying talk, chalk dust and most every powder in the kitchen with no luck.
I found polyester resin mixed with quick-set cement had a great texture for spatuling it into holes/dents etc in my old Ecomoline. BUT
The next morning I discovered those pretty red sand pieces were garnet rocks and were harder then either my sandpaper, files or grinding wheel. The rest of its life that Econoline just went thru life with pimples.
Thank goodness they now sell body putties that work.
Years ago I experimented making some body filler trying talk, chalk dust and most every powder in the kitchen with no luck.
I found polyester resin mixed with quick-set cement had a great texture for spatuling it into holes/dents etc in my old Ecomoline. BUT
The next morning I discovered those pretty red sand pieces were garnet rocks and were harder then either my sandpaper, files or grinding wheel. The rest of its life that Econoline just went thru life with pimples.
Thank goodness they now sell body putties that work.
DieselPower
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2006
- Messages
- 2,761
- Location
- Fairfield, PA
- Tractor
- JD 3020, JD 4230, JD 7410, JD 2440, MF 750, NH LS170
"The rest of its life that Econoline just went thru life with pimples." 
having worked in a body shop most of my life, most of the professional muds are meant for speed (read easy to spread and sand and a lot more expensive) bondo from walmart will fit your needs and be cheaper than visiting a auto paint store.
visit here to see the different kinds of filler there is Welcome To Bondo
a hint on slinging mud, apply thin even coats and work it down between coats it's a lot easier than trying to sand off a mountain
visit here to see the different kinds of filler there is Welcome To Bondo
a hint on slinging mud, apply thin even coats and work it down between coats it's a lot easier than trying to sand off a mountain