Clutch Job - Model 1920

[toddwulf]

I have a choice. The 1920 is coming up on a clutch job and at $1000 - $1500 to have our local guy do it, I'm seriously considering doing this myself. The thing that scares me is the need to crack the tractor in half to get access to the clutch assembly. It's a 12x12 mechanical clutch setup and I have moderate mechanical skills (i.e. I can do my own brakes, have an old Army Truck i'm doing a frame off restoration, upgraded the drum's to 4 wheel disc brakes, but have'nt rebuilt an engine). I have a large enough garage to do this but would probably wait until the 36x36 shop is done. It's not a rush but within the next 6-12 months it'll need to be done, preferably over winter when it's not getting much use. If I start and find and I can't do it, I always have the option of loading the halves on a trailer (don't know how I'd actually do that) or getting the tractor guy to come and help me out (possibly). I also have all the 1920/2120 manuals which both describe the process as well as provides exploded diagrams. So, to the group, your collective wisdom in helping me decide:

1. Clutch by myself or to the mechanic?
2. What else ought to be done when I'm there?
3. Any other thoughts on this one?

Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas (Yes I still call it Christmas).

Todd Wulfert

 

[TCBoomer]

If you are doing a frame off on an old army truck, I don't believe you'll have any problem splitting your 1920...IMO anyway. Have you ever replaced a clutch before? The only thing to be concerned about is getting the clutch aligned correctly so that when you put the tractor halves back together, the input shaft will slide right in. Oh yeah...the clutch is directional, so don't put it in backwards.

The best advice I can offer is make sure you have plenty of caps & plugs to seal off any open hydraulic lines. Also, having an engine hoist helps immensely. Here's a link that shows what I went through when I split my NH to fix an oil leak. FWIW...I never split a tractor before either. This was my first time and it went well.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/nh-owning-operating/54621-hydro-leak-tc24da.html#post615653

Good luck and just pay attention to everything you take apart.

edited to add...if the flywheel has any heat cracks, have it machined.

 

[john_bud]

Do it your self. It's more mentally scary than actually difficult. Yes, it's big, and heavy but basically built to be repaired by a farmer.

Things you will need.

Manual
sockets for all the bolt/nut sizes. (many may be larger than 1")
Air tools (nice, but honestly not needed)
2 sturdy adjustable jack stands (I like the 6 ton versions as a minimum)
2 more sturdy jack stands if you keep the loader on.
Bottle jack that can reach the bottom of the oil pan and lift it 2"
Roll around floor jack
Concrete or other hard floor (not asphalt unless you put plywood on top)
Clutch alignment tool (cheap plastic ones work. I made mine from wood on a lathe)
Digital camera, 2 dozen large boxes, a box of gallon zip lock bags, notebook, and a sharpie

If you have a loader, it may or may not need to be removed. Depends how it is mounted.

Pressure wash the tractor several times so it is clean enough to eat off. I will take several washings as there seems to always be spots that are behind brackets and under things that don't get clean.

Read the manual all the way first, then do it again.

As you take each sub-assembly apart photograph it in the original condition and several times as you take it apart. Good closeups of the bolts nuts and orientation. Put the parts in labeled boxes and the nuts/bolts in bags in the box. Mark down the picture numbers and what they are for in your notebook and reference that on the box.

Extreme? Yes, by far. But, if you have questions on what a part is or where it goes the pictures will answer them. I have never seen a person get "over their heads" when doing it this way. I have seen many people all but junk equipment when taken apart in a rush like a 3 year old at Christmas.

Align the clutch disc with the tool to the flywheel. Bolt on the pressure plate. The better the alignment, the easier it is to slide the transmission back. If it is off a touch, you can manipulate the clutch peddle to release the disc. I always keep the trans in neutral so the input shaft can rotate to align the splines. If it has issues, putting it in gear and rolling back 1/2" then back to N and forward again often fixes it.

HOT TIP ALERT! HOT TIP ALERT! HOT TIP ALERT!

Get some bolts that are of the same diameter as the ones that bolt the trans to engine. They should be about 3" too long, but not so long as you couldn't remove them with the tractor together. Cut the heads off the bolts and grind them to a round point. One per side at about the mid point of the trans case. These are guides to help hold alignment between th trans and engine. You still will have to wiggle and woggle to get it to slip together, but this tip will make it super easy.


DIRE WARNING! DIRE WARNING! DIRE WARNING! DIRE WARNING!

Never force the transmission and engine together. It will damage the clutch possibly the input shaft. The parts will slide together when you have them aligned. Little force required.

Ok, you can do it alone. It will take you one full 8-12 hour day to take the tractor apart and get it split if you go slow and take lots of pictures (check them on the computer while you are doing it), write down all your documentation etc. It takes a "pro" 1-4 hours to get it all apart depending on models. Don't get in a hurry.

It may take you a couple days to clean all the parts, degrease them and repaint. Depends how crazy you get and how spiffy you want it to look.

Putting it back together should be in the 6-8 hour range. Figure on 1-2 hours to get it aligned. Take you time, look at it from both sides. If you aligned it correctly, it may slide together the first try and that would be 15-30 min. Then all the little parts back on will be 4-6 more hours.

Those are times that it took me doing it alone the first time on a tractor with a loader and hoe frame that blocked the rear end from moving freely.


Clutch disc, Pressure Plate, and bearings -> under $200.
Fluids -> 50$
Savings -> $1000.
Feeling of accomplishment --> priceless!

jb

 

[toddwulf]

OK Guy's, you've atleast given me courage. The pix of your leak fix really help me understand HOW the halves are going to look. I was more worried about how I was going to lift and support the halves to get the alignment for the I/O splines when putting back together.

I have split my army truck trans/engine and know what's supposed to happen upon re assembly - i.e. aligning and sliding the I/O splines - I even put a new bell housing on the 318 to mate it to an NV4500 so I think I've got that part understood. It's not any more comllicated than a standard tranny/engine mating procedure is it? Just the engine and tranny are still attached to the tractor which makes alignment and leveling much more of a challenge.

I haven't ever taken the loader off but I would suspect in order to do this, I'll have to learn how. It's a 7308 and it's supposed to just come off easily, I just haven't done it. I do have a floor jack, engine hoist, compressor and air tools, large sockets (for the Army truck (SAE) and the Tractor (Metric), a concrete floor in the current garage and plan to pour one for the outbuilding. One of the concerns I have is how much height I'd need to get the two halves properly aligned etc.. My tractor fit's into my current garage (3 car) and I've got 10' or higher ceilings but I think again, your pictures answered my question.

If and when I do this, I'll be sure to take lot's of pictures so I can get the accolades and satisfaction you did. I just can't guarantee my '98 will look as shiny and spotless as yours. Good advice on the multiple pressure washings.

 

[normde2001]

If you are doing a frame off on an old army truck, I don't believe you'll have any problem splitting your 1920...IMO anyway. Have you ever replaced a clutch before? The only thing to be concerned about is getting the clutch aligned correctly so that when you put the tractor halves back together, the input shaft will slide right in. Oh yeah...the clutch is directional, so don't put it in backwards.

The best advice I can offer is make sure you have plenty of caps & plugs to seal off any open hydraulic lines. Also, having an engine hoist helps immensely. Here's a link that shows what I went through when I split my NH to fix an oil leak. FWIW...I never split a tractor before either. This was my first time and it went well.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/nh-owning-operating/54621-hydro-leak-tc24da.html#post615653

Good luck and just pay attention to everything you take apart.

edited to add...if the flywheel has any heat cracks, have it machined.

I got a dumb question..... Why didn't you have the dealer fix that under waranty ?

 

[JerryG]

I have split a lot of tractors and I really don't think that you will have a problem if you take your time. BTW, Be sure to wedge the front axle before you break it apart so that it won't tilt over to one side. If you have a concrete floor and two floor jacks there is nothing hard about it.

 

[BTDT]

I got a dumb question..... Why didn't you have the dealer fix that under waranty ?

Long story, go read all threads/posts by tcboomer, I did this morning, thinking the same thing. BTW, welcome back TCBOOMER.

 

[john_bud]

Todd,

Don't take off the loader unless you HAVE to. I left mine on and it was helpful to be on. Check the manual. Unless it ties into the rear of the tractor, you are probably ok leaving it on.

jb

 

[TCBoomer]

I got a dumb question..... Why didn't you have the dealer fix that under waranty ?

BTDT said it best...looooong story. To summarize, considering the circumstances, I had alot more confidence in my own abilities than someone elses.

 

[TCBoomer]

BTW, welcome back TCBOOMER.

Thanks