Changing Chainsaw Blades

[Billy_S]

Is this the area where I should be posting this question? Oh well, here goes anyway.

I have two Stihl chainsaws. One has a 14 inch bar and the other has a 25 inch bar. The 25 inch saw about kicks my scrawny butt just to use, but there are some chores that only it will handle. It was my only saw until recently, when I bought the 14 incher.

Last night, I went to change blades on both saws. It was the first time I had changed the blade on the 14 inch saw. That was uneventful. But the 25 inch saw is always a challenge for me to change the blade. I get it on the top of the guidebar and it slips off when I try to get it on the bottom. It just seems to me that there has to be an easier way. Is there a trick or is changing the blade on a large saw just not all that easy to do?

[AndyMA]

I usually just hook the chain around the sprocket and use that to keep it tight as I put it on the bar if it falls off. Put the chain on the bar with the bar laying horiontal. Hold the loose end of the chain with your finger and keep it tight as you put it on the sprocket. If all else fails perhaps a piece of electrical tape would help keep it on the bar until mounted.

Andy

[randy41]

i loosen the bar (adjust the screw so the bar is 'shorter')and then run the chain around the sprocket and drape it over the top of the bar (the chain should be slack at this point) and then guide it into the bottom bar slot while tightening the bar (adjust the screw so the bar is 'longer'). the bar is in a vertical position while doing this.

[scott_vt]

Afternoon Billy,
I use the same method as Randy. Seems to work fine for me. I mostly use my Stihl 025 Wood Boss. That saw has the 16" blade. Its always a good time to clean all the gunk out of there at that time. In a pinch I have flipped the blade over to get a few more miles out of it !

[johnk]

Scott,
That is a very good point to flip the bar over after a lot of usage. When you take your chain off each time to sharpen it flip the bar. If you sharpen it while on the bar,, Flip the bar every 4 tanks of gas or so.. Just a good habit to get into.

[WayneB]

I normally flip the bar everytime that I sharpen the chain. I have husqvarna Rancher with an 18 inch bar. I will touch up a chain on the bar from time to time, but usually I take the chain off and use an Oregon grinder to sharpen the chain.

Flipping the bar will diffently extend the life of the bar.

[greenedeere]

I also use the Randy way, when I check the condition of chain I also feel the edge of the bar, and file lightly the sharp edges on the bar and then flip. It seems to last alot longer by doing this, I also squirt bar oil on chain and bar each time I clean,sharpen and tighten the chain,try to always keep it out of the dirt if I can.I use a stihl file holder and angle guide when sharping chain is also has a depth gauge.

[dillo99]

I normally flip the bar everytime that I sharpen the chain. I have husqvarna Rancher with an 18 inch bar. I will touch up a chain on the bar from time to time, but usually I take the chain off and use an Oregon grinder to sharpen the chain.

Flipping the bar will diffently extend the life of the bar.

Different question - how do you know when a new bar is in order? What is warn out?????

[greenedeere]

I have always replaced the bar if I screw up and bend it,if the chain binds while sliding it along loose when sharpening,if I can clean it or spread it I will,if doing so and I break or crack it I change it. I watch the amount I tighten the chain also,to prevent the overtightened chain from wearing sharpe edge on the bar.If the bar has a upward wear while laying on a straight edge and the wear is deep enough,then the chain will not ride in the groove without the driven inside teeth bottoming out,causing flat spots on the inside teeth and more drag and friction.these items may not matter to some. The roller gear, if you have one on the end needs greasing from time to time if not it will also bind.

[schmism]

Different question - how do you know when a new bar is in order? What is warn out?????

a quality stihl (oregon) bar can be squared up. if your shaping by hand and not getting your teeth ground evenly (left sides higher than the right) the saw wont cut straight (you might have experience this) this loads one rail of the bar more than the other. this lead to one side getting more were than the other which can make the bottom of the bar uneven. Most quality bars have a slot thats deaper than the drive link allowing them to be reground sq a couple of times.

The nose can wear out, but on a 24-25" bar your crazy if your not running a sprocket nose which can also wear out but much more slowly.

the bar can also become bent or warped from being pinched in a tree, or running with no/not enough oil and becomeing excessivly hot.

a finnal way that the bar can become worn is from a worn drive sprocket. If its warn bad enough then the chain comming off the bar/onto the bar will not want to track right because its trying to line up with the worn drive sprocket.

I run a 24" bar on my 039 but also have a 20" which is MUCH lighter and more ballanced. but when cutting 24-36" tree's that 24" bar rocks.

I have a small 010 limb saw with a 12" bar that rocks for stuff upto 6" as its about 1/4 the weight the large saw.

I really perfer my 2 saw combo as one "farm boss" Size saw CAN do both, but does neither really well....