removing stump jumper

[DTCOOPER]

Okay fellas, I raised my mower up (5' Howse - OLD), and decided I would sharpen the blades and tighten up the gear head. Well, After a couple of busted knuckles, I got out the torch and heated (persuaded) the nut to get it to rotate and back off. Well ,then came the fun part ! I could not for the life of me figure out how to get the stump jumper (with blades attached) to drop off the shaft. I have to get it off in order to tighten the bolts/nuts on the gear head. So, what's the trick to it? Do I have to heat something there too ?
Thanks for your continued help and patience with my novice questions..

 

[MrJimi]

It's on a splined shaft after you remove castle nut and cotterpin and washer, bump it from one side to the other like 6 O'clock and 12 O;clock and so forth with a sledge and do not bend anything, maybe a 4 X 4 post would be better with gloves on
i hope that helped you
Jim

 

[jimainiac]

Maybe this would be a good place to try the wax trick. Some have said that parrafin wax works better than penetrating oil on stuck parts, after heating. Apparantly, it seeps way in, kind of like solder in a joint. I just got some wax and am eager to try it.

 

[MrJimi]

Maybe this would be a good place to try the wax trick. Some have said that parrafin wax works better than penetrating oil on stuck parts, after heating. Apparantly, it seeps way in, kind of like solder in a joint. I just got some wax and am eager to try it.

The wax trick, I wonder if it has to be a certain kind or will a everyday candle work? and You got me thinking about his problem, its a RC lower shaft in the wet grass all the time and I would bet it is one piece rusted together till he knocks it loose with some openings in it

 

[EddieWalker]

Daniel,

Any luck with those blades? I also couldn't figure out how to get mine off. I went to my dealer, but he wasn't any help either. He just sells them and his mechanic was out in the field. I could wait, or I could call Land Pride. He gave me the number and I called them from his office. They were very helpful and told me how to do it and what sized socket I needed to use.

Maybe calling Howse will help?

Eddie

 

[Farmerford]

DTCOOPER:

I had the same problem with a Bush Hog. The Bush Hog shaft has a tapered spline made to a Society of Agricultural Enginers (or something like that) standard and your KK probably has the same arrangement. Since it is tapered, it comes off easily once you get just enough movement to separate the hub and shaft.

Mine came off after I put an air impact hammer (like the one muffler shops use) through the blade bolt access hole in the deck and hammered on the top side of the stump jumper. The vibration loosened the splined coupling in a minute or so.

You should get same effect by putting a steel rod through the blade bolt access hole and tapping it firmly and repeatedly with a hammer.

Since yours has been on a long time, I would also heat the hub with a torch. A propane torch works pretty well for this and there is no danger of getting the heat treated shaft too hot. The hub, at least on my two Bush Hogs, is not heat treated, so the heat doesn't harm it.

And the use of wax or something like PB Blaster through all this helps too.

 

[DTCOOPER]

I DO have an air impact hammer.. I'll give that a shot this afternoon. Best case, it'll break free and slide off. Worst case, my dentist will make some money next week when I go to have the loose fillings replaced.

If I JUST had to sharpen the blades, I would do as others have suggested and do them on the deck.. but needing to tighten the loose gear head housing, warrants removing the stump jumper.
Who knows, when I get the stump jumper off, I might just replace the blades all together. I know they're knicked up considerably. And any attempt to grind them off enough to get rid of the knicks, might make them unbalanced.

Always something right ?

 

[tommu56]

DTCOOPER

If there is a setscrew hole in part?
Our mechanics remove the tapped pulleys on our press with an adaptor in the setscrew hole and connect an enterpac hand pump to adaptor and pump they usually pop right off.

Sorta like removing clutch pilot bearing by packing hole with grease and putting a punch in center and hitting it with hammer compressing grease pushing out bearing

tommu56

 

[TrippleT]

I replaced the blades on my brush cutter/bush hog, not the brand, and tried the candle wax thing I had read on here. Before I started I had used the air wrench and it had not loosened the nuts holding the blades. Then I heated the nuts with a propane torch and let the candle wax melt as I went all around the bolts.
Like Mr Jimi said, I hit the stump jumper at 6 and 12 positions and it came right off without any thing other than I sprayed it with WD 40, and it came right off.

Whether the candle wax was the thing that made it work or not I cannot say for sure. I do know that the nuts holding the blades came off and the area that was wet was more than the length of the nuts.
You might have to let the wrench tighten or loosen several times as well. One thing you need to be careful not to over heat and burn the candle wax. Just let it turn to liquid. Good luck!

 

[BillyP]

Loosen the bolt holding the stump jumper to the splined shaft. Start tractor and engage PTO for a second. The sudden jar is usually enough to loosen the stump jumper.