RDrancher's Photo Thread

[RDrancher]

Thanks timberland!

Using geotextile and a border will negate the need for large base rock. I would suggest 3/4" or 1-1/2" compacted road base with a topping of 3/4" limestone or granite which will help to cut down on dust. Sorry, I can't help you much with a source for the aggregates.

For the culvert pipe I would use a minimum of schedule 120 pvc. It should be available from any commercial plumbing supply house.

Metal edging always seems to be the easiest to install, but that's not always the case. Its tough to get it as straight as you want it, but not impossible. When I use wood edging I like to use treated corral board from HD for a narrow border, staked and screwed on the inside of the edging. For wider borders like a treated 4x4 or 4x6 timber, I drill two holes through each timber and drive rebar through them and into the ground. Then I use a 3/8" bit to drill on an angle from one timber to the next and drive galvanized landscape spikes to hold them together. Whatever you do...don't use the cheap 3x5 landscape timbers from HD or Lowes that folks make planters out of. They will twist and turn out of shape in no time.

I'll pm you with a great source for geotextile.

 

[timberland]

Thanks timberland!

Using geotextile and a border will negate the need for large base rock. I would suggest 3/4" or 1-1/2" compacted road base with a topping of 3/4" limestone or granite which will help to cut down on dust. Sorry, I can't help you much with a source for the aggregates.

For the culvert pipe I would use a minimum of schedule 120 pvc. It should be available from any commercial plumbing supply house.

Metal edging always seems to be the easiest to install, but that's not always the case. Its tough to get it as straight as you want it, but not impossible. When I use wood edging I like to use treated corral board from HD for a narrow border, staked and screwed on the inside of the edging. For wider borders like a treated 4x4 or 4x6 timber, I drill two holes through each timber and drive rebar through them and into the ground. Then I use a 3/8" bit to drill on an angle from one timber to the next and drive galvanized landscape spikes to hold them together. Whatever you do...don't use the cheap 3x5 landscape timbers from HD or Lowes that folks make planters out of. They will twist and turn out of shape in no time.

I'll pm you with a great source for geotextile.

Thank you, we have a big asphalt plant here that should have the rock.

 

[MarkV]

Do you really think the geotextile is necessary on a solid clay base? I think of it more for soil types that hold water and become soft. I guess there is clay and then there is clay but here with our red clay we don't see fabric used very often. Also if you have much in the way of trees I would consider at least a 12" culvert pipe. A 4" pipe will get plugged with leaves pretty fast.

MarkV

 

[RDrancher]

MarkV - As far as using geo, it really depends if gravel tends to disappear over time. Geo does an excellent job of separating the two materials and keeping grass from encroaching into your road. There's not much geo used around here either, but that's typically because they've never had the benefits explained well enough to show them the long-term savings, or they just can't swallow the added expense.

I like to use at least 12" pipe too, but the size that can be used depends upon what you have to work with.

 

[RDrancher]

Finally got back to finish this job. The entrance and exit to the culvert looks weird in the photo, but its just the angle of the shots.


And finally, laid some river stone in the swale that I cut earlier.

 

[RDrancher]

Taken at 50mph on the way to the job. He was standing next to the road waiting to cross and didn't turn-tail and jump the fence until I got within 100 ft or so. I was on the binders hard with camera in hand hoping to save my radiator...or at least get a good photo of the wreck.


I love old buildings, so I took a pic of this one next to the job.


Here's a few before, during and after pics of my 1/4 mile driveway re-grade today.


I followed a trailer loaded up with a NH CTL on the way to the job and another one with a CAT excavator onboard on the way back. Its good to see lots of work going on in this free state of ours. :thumbsup:

 

[RDrancher]

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[RDrancher]

Did a little favor for one of my material brokers today. Not for free mind you. A customer had ordered 10 yards of clean fill dirt but only need 6 or so. The load had been sitting on their lawn for a couple of weeks, getting soaked everyday (including this morning) by the sprinklers. Met and loaded the truck and stayed behind to clean up the mess.

 

[EddieWalker]

Ok, rdrancher I need your professional advice. Just had a house pad done. I had the dirt guy grade for the driveway. He went down to clay, about 2-4 inches with 10 foot dozer blade. I am in the Longview area, East texas. What would you reccomend for a gravel drive and who should I buy materials from.
I am thinking geo fabric, edging (wood or metal ? ), a base rock and a top layer rock. Need your advice. Also I need to install a 4 inch culvert pipe. Not sure what type and where to get pipe.

Nice work !

I use J & S Sand & Gravel in Tyler. Phone: (903) 561-4351

They have been around forever and are very easy to work with. I don't know if they go to Longview or not, but if they don't, I'm sure they will tell you who will. They don't take debit or credit cards. Only cash or personal check once the rock is delivered. They get their base rock/road base/limestone out of Terrel. My guess is that anybody out in Longview is going to the quarry in Terrel too.

If you have red clay, then giving it a nice mound and good drainage on the side is all you need for a road that will last decades. My land is half way between Tyler and Longview and part of what was once Camp Fannin. The roads built in 1942 are still good, smooth, hard clay with drainage on eather side. I've never bougth fabric and don't see the need for it with my soils. Drainage is the secret to any road.

Why do you want a 4 inch culvert? I would never use anything smaller then 12 inches. Even that is too small for a lot of applications. Lows and McCoys have as good a price as you will find anywhere else. I just had McCoys deliver an 18 inch culvert to my place a few weeks ago.

Eddie

 

[RDrancher]

Put in a couple of small driveways across the street from each other this week, then loaded out trucks for the material broker on Wednesday. Lots of homeowners ordering too much material and then wanting it removed before the holiday I guess. I really didn't want to leave the house Wednesday after being up all night with a touch of the flu, but I'd already committed to getting stuff done.


I'll spend the rest of this week catching up on a few chores. I'll install a Heater Treater in my wife's F150, take it in to get new tires and finish welding up the new exhaust. I've got to search for a nagging oil leak on my PowerStroke too.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!