My pride and joy

   / My pride and joy #1  

wroughtn_harv

Super Member
Joined
May 12, 2002
Messages
6,055
Location
Denison, Texas
Tractor
2013 Volvo MC85C
For some time now I've been working on a system to enable someone with minimal construction skills to build their own shop-shed-barn with only a cordless drill and a metal saw, skill, sawsall, portaband, chop, etc.

So last week I started building a portable loafing shed using prototype parts.

Two caveats, one the base was welded up since this is a portable shed twelve by twenty one. But everything above the skids and uprights is put together with my system. The second of course is I'll not going to have any closeups of the connectors since we're in the process of doing the legaleze to protect the idea.

I would like some feedback though if you have any. This project here would be the actual cost of materials purchased plus about four hundred for all the connectors, drawings, DVD-VHS tape etc. Only four pieces comprise the the system. As of now we're looking at a twenty four foot clear span max. So that means with this system one can build a twenty four by however long one's pocket book will stretch.

Here's a shot of it without the roof (waiting on the sheets to be cut by the supplier) being towed by my skid steer.
 

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   / My pride and joy #2  
That looks pretty impressive. How is the expected cost (per sq.ft. ?) compared to 'conventional' (whatever that is)?

It looks light-weight, and wonder how you tie it down for the Texas wind? Or isn't it a problem?
 
   / My pride and joy
  • Thread Starter
#3  
This shed will be put in a pasture. One side will be a horse stall and the other will be a tack-feed room. The advantages of a portable is the closed side can be moved around to face the weather, north in the winter, south in the summer, etc.

There is also the advantage that one can relocate the shed as required to avoid destroying an area, share the wealth from a fertilization standpoint one might say.

The screw and connector concept works great but I haven't figured out how to keep the saftey of the one eight pipe turns and the rigidity required for towing without welding. However I can envision a kit where one could have a weldor come in have that part welded up in a couple of hours. The notched fittings and one eighties would be provided.

Here's what it looks like when it's ready for the system.

It's the same situation as far as the system is concerned as if the six posts were set in concrete for a dirt floored shed. Or if they were set in concrete on a slab or just bolted down. Once the posts are standing it's ready for the system.
 

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   / My pride and joy
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Here's a shot of the framing. Again, this is all put together with self tapping screws, no welds.
 

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   / My pride and joy
  • Thread Starter
#5  
One of the drawbacks of conventional steel framed metal buildings is one needs to use conventional lumber framing methods to build an inside wall. With this system the same framing that holds the outside skin also can hold the inside wall. There's room for using conventional insulation and wiring etc.

Framing in a window or a door is really simple too.
 

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   / My pride and joy
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Next week the trim and roof sheets will be in. We'll finish it out and put it on the trailer. Then we'll take it up to sixty five or seventy for a wind test on it's way to it's new home.

If I decide to market it via internet a customer would pick a design. I would put together a package with a measured drawing, DVD or VHS tape instruction presentation, and all the connectors, fittings, and screws required along with a material list for what needs to be purchased locally.

The cost to the customer will be the cost of the local material purchase, my package, and any labor they contract out for assembly. If they want to put it together themselves then their cost will be material's cost only.

When you figure the finished cost rule of thumb is labor equal materials then the customer would be saving fifty percent and have the satisfaction of building it themself.

I'm probably at least a year out right now from producing product. We're putting together some investors and professionals to make it work right the first time.

So if you have any ideas that you think would help me out share them please.

I feel it will be a natural fit for the guy who wants a shed for his tractor, or a detached garage or small barn, or even the guy who wants to have a place to stay while he's building his home.

Thanks for your advice in advance.
 
   / My pride and joy #7  
a year away?

dang, I need a couple of those NOW!
 
   / My pride and joy #8  
Harvey, your invention comes just in time. I need to build a carport, workshop, and garage, in that order, starting this summer. I have the minimal skills you mention so your connectors would make my construction jobs quick, easy and look professional. Let me know when you are taking orders. What size and type of steel do the connectors work with?
What are you going to name your new connector system?
 
   / My pride and joy #9  
Harvey,

Since you showed me this system of yours, I've been kicking around a few thoughts about it.

One, will the pipe and purlins be readily available from a "box" type store, or will they have to buy from a specialty location? Lots of folks arent comfortable shopping for items if they arent on the shelf at Home Depot.

Second, Squareing it all up. I've helped out on metal building kits where we had a heck of a time getting everything square. I always leave everything loose so we can adjust it after it's all together. Does your system have this issue?

Third, Cutting pipe. Can it be built without having to cut the pipe to certain lengths or special angles. The less work, and less measuring, the better. For example. In your directions, you give examples on how to build the barns with dimensions reflecting standard pipe lengths. Most do it yourselfers are wood oriented and shy away from metal buildings just because they aren't comfortable with it. Also cutting a 30 degree angle or whatever the roof pitch is could be more then most are able to do.

Fourth, Anchoring it to a slab or some footings. Is there a bracket available to do this. A cement floor is always preferable to anything else. If they could save money on your system, they might be able to afford a good foundation.

It's a great idea and I'm glad to see it's moving along.

Eddie
 
   / My pride and joy
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I was going to call it "quickies" but I figured that would severely limit my internet opportunities. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Many hits mind you, but few buyers. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

So I haven't come up with a name yet.

All of the connectors we used were custom made with a plasma, grinders, and hand brake. We won't be looking at production for awhile. Even with an eighty ton punch press available the dies run about four grand each to make.

For you situation Don you might want to take a good look back up there at "barn built my way" or some such. That process would work out great for you.

Eddie I figure I'll work out the squareness problems for the customers with t he measured drawing. If the measurements are dead on it'll be square.

The connectors allow some slack for racking. So a building can be framed and then racked plumb and square for the sheet metal application. Of course once the sheet metal's on nothing will move.

I can see where a weldor might find the connectors worth while in laying out and setting up. Instead of using the screws they'd just weld it up with out all the time spent fitting up. It's a lot easier cutting steel at nineties with a saw than using a hole saw or a gas ax (cutting torch) and trying to get it close enough to weld fourteen gauge.

We're excited. And so are some others, and that's good, I've got the ideas, they've got the funding. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
 
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