whack of logs
- Thread starter woodmills1
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woodmills1
Gold Member
yes the cooper makes barrels, and my customer makes them for museums and sometimes hollywood. i do custom cutting both at my location and on the road. i have cut at bd ft prices ranging from 15 to 30 cents per bd ft, depending on the size and type of logs. i usually charge by the hour/day getting between 400 and 500 dollars per 10 hour day depending on the level of support equipment avaliable and weather i think there will be repeat or regular business. for this daily rate i will do any of the jobs needed like buck logs, move the mill to different areas, off load lumber, etc. also the first tramp metal is free, and after that either i get paid to scan or the customer scans to my satisfaction. inother words there are no hidden charges with a daily rate. most of my customers have saved money over bd ft costs this way.
James "woody" Mills
James "woody" Mills
Boondox
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Hey Woody!
You've milled a board or two...
I have 1200bf of 5/4 cherry and 1800bf of 8/4 rock maple that was rough-cut two years ago and has been carefully stickered ever since. Last winter I brought about a third of the cherry inside to take advantage of the nice, dry (we heat with wood) dining room. The MC is now down to 6% on the edges of the pile and between 6-8% in the middle. I say it's ready to work with, but the local specialty lumber stores says I ought to "finish" it in a kiln before working it into new kitchen cabinets and a bed for the spare room.
What's your experience tell you?
Pete
www.GatewayToVermont.com
You've milled a board or two...
I have 1200bf of 5/4 cherry and 1800bf of 8/4 rock maple that was rough-cut two years ago and has been carefully stickered ever since. Last winter I brought about a third of the cherry inside to take advantage of the nice, dry (we heat with wood) dining room. The MC is now down to 6% on the edges of the pile and between 6-8% in the middle. I say it's ready to work with, but the local specialty lumber stores says I ought to "finish" it in a kiln before working it into new kitchen cabinets and a bed for the spare room.
What's your experience tell you?
Pete
www.GatewayToVermont.com
Youare
Platinum Member
I believe a cooper is someone who makes watertight containers (barrels) out of wood. If I remember correctly "white" woods such as white oak, ash, and others were better suited for this process.
Randy
Randy
ForceTen
Bronze Member
Re: Hey Woody!
Pete,
I am a hobbyist woodworker who does word-of-mouth work for money, and have some drying experiance. You generally need to air dry outdoors for one year per inch of thickness (depending on your climate). After that, the wood should be ready to go. I always bring mine inside and sticker it well for about 4-6 months before I use it. I have had absolutely no problems working this way (qualifier: In Georgia. Your climate and milage may vary!). So the short answer is to not waste your money.
Steve
There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are very, very few old bold pilots. And they get scarcer every day.
Pete,
I am a hobbyist woodworker who does word-of-mouth work for money, and have some drying experiance. You generally need to air dry outdoors for one year per inch of thickness (depending on your climate). After that, the wood should be ready to go. I always bring mine inside and sticker it well for about 4-6 months before I use it. I have had absolutely no problems working this way (qualifier: In Georgia. Your climate and milage may vary!). So the short answer is to not waste your money.
Steve
There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are very, very few old bold pilots. And they get scarcer every day.
beenthere
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Re: Hey Woody!
Have you cut some test samples to check for stresses in the surface of the wood, especially the 8/4? Putting it in the kiln run by a good kiln operator can relieve some of those stresses if they are there.
Cut a 1/2" long slice about 6" from one end of a board, and then cut the center out of that (not all the way across the width of the board). Leaving a a test piece that looks like a tuning fork, with one edge and two wide faces about 1/2" thick intact. If the board is stress free, then the 'forks' will be straight. If there are stresses, the 'forks' will be curved inward or outward. A board with stresses at or near the surface will warp and twist during planing and sawing during construction of cabinets or furniture.
Have you cut some test samples to check for stresses in the surface of the wood, especially the 8/4? Putting it in the kiln run by a good kiln operator can relieve some of those stresses if they are there.
Cut a 1/2" long slice about 6" from one end of a board, and then cut the center out of that (not all the way across the width of the board). Leaving a a test piece that looks like a tuning fork, with one edge and two wide faces about 1/2" thick intact. If the board is stress free, then the 'forks' will be straight. If there are stresses, the 'forks' will be curved inward or outward. A board with stresses at or near the surface will warp and twist during planing and sawing during construction of cabinets or furniture.
cedarranch
Silver Member
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OP
woodmills1
Gold Member
OP
woodmills1
Gold Member
pete i have used lots of air dried for flooring, cabinets, tables, etc. i use a process very similiar to what you are doing though i usually light plane before stickering inside. you will know if the lumber has stresses as you rip. if the cut pinches or opens up you will have stress. i get that on some but not much of the couple of thousand feet i have used this way. what are you using to check moisture content?
my point has always been how did the old timers make stuff before kiln drying?
as far as i know white oak being anon ring porous wood was used for liquid bearing barrels and red for dry goods.
James "woody" Mills
my point has always been how did the old timers make stuff before kiln drying?
as far as i know white oak being anon ring porous wood was used for liquid bearing barrels and red for dry goods.
James "woody" Mills
Boondox
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Re: Hey Woody!
Steve and beenthere: Thanks for the input. The cherry is perfect, and I was able to mill it with no trouble at all. Maple, on the other hand, can be such a pain to work with! I'll try the test cut idea if for no other reason than curiousity!
Pete
www.GatewayToVermont.com
Steve and beenthere: Thanks for the input. The cherry is perfect, and I was able to mill it with no trouble at all. Maple, on the other hand, can be such a pain to work with! I'll try the test cut idea if for no other reason than curiousity!
Pete
www.GatewayToVermont.com