Barns and shop layouts

[Pks]

SE1120,

I'm using the term "bay" to help define equipment locations, repair zones and storage areas. The whole barn will be as you suggest, completely open. I have not determined if I want a clean room or a paint room.

Bill thanks for the help on the terminology.

Roger, thanks for the added ideas. When I compare my notes with those of you with experience, I can see that I'm headed in the right direction.

I am also trying to figure out how the concrete floor should be. One thing that has always been a "pet peeve" is having a sloping floor under a car while trying to determine how much oil is in the engine. IMHO, the floor in the auto repair area should be polished and level. But I'd also like to have any running water (from a hose or broken pipe) guided to a drain. I don't want a 1200 square foot flood if someone leaves the hose running on the shop floor!

Have any of you put in drains or guide channels etc?

I also think I’ll have a little roughness added to the concrete around the doors to help prevent slipping when the floor is wet. In my area, installers drag a shop broom across wet concrete to add texture.

What floor thickness is good and did the floor get scored after it was poured? My barn will sit on x-million year old river bottom sand and clay. I have a feeling I'll end up bringing in a load of crushed rock to make sure the floor maintains its stability.

What re-bar types have you used?

Thanks, Peter

 

[DocHeb]

To keep the floor level, yet still have a slope, have the drain centered under the car. That way all the floor can be drained, but the car can remain level.

Consider using a two-part epoxy or polyurethane paint on the floor. This will keep stains off and allow easy cleaning. This finish could be slicker than ice, so there is grit/sand material especially made to be broadcasted on the wet paint to give traction. It is the same material as used on sandpaper. I had my garage done nine years ago and it is still in great condition.

 

[rdln]

I just stumbled across these free downloadable in Acrobat form <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~mwps_dis/mwps_web/ma_plans.html>Barn plans</A>
In the 60' wide shed they show tool layout and lighting stuff. It deals with more room than you are talking about but should be helpful.

At the site there is also a catalogue link with useful looking publications.

 

[Rch]

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://jplan.com/cgi-bin/tractor/fullThread.pl?parentnum=22933&category=HPB&catname=Barns%20/%20Pole%20Barns#23109>http://jplan.com/cgi-bin/tractor/fullThread.pl?parentnum=22933&category=HPB&catname=Barns%20/%20Pole%20Barns#23109</A>
Here is a link on the Compact Tractor Board regarding designing and building a shop. It has some links regarding radiant heating, vehicle lifts, bifold doors.
An additional thought regarding windows. Crank-out awning windows, if left open, still keep out rain pretty good and, if a wind blows up, won't get ripped off like casement windows.

 

[Bayrat]

<font color=blue>I just went through what you are planning. My barn has two areas. One is wide open and the other is a 20 x 40 shop. Go for the highest ceiling you can on your property, you won't regret it, it is extremely cheap to go up as opposed to out. My 30' boat is stored in a stall and I can stand up in it with room to spare. I had the builder install a ceiling in my shop area, I am already regretting I didn't go the whole building. My floor is aprox. four inches thick poured with fiberglass impregnated cement. they cut joints into it after it set and I have had no cracks. I built a large access door between the shop and the storage area. I regret not using larger doors. I had one 13' x14' and two 9'x9' {that should have been 10'}. I installed all of my plumbing to the rear of the shop before the pour, for future use. The shop doors are insulated, as are the windows. I used a 2' strip of sunpanel all across the back wall just below the truss. Burry your electric and phone conduit before the pour as well. I had the builder put a glass finish on my floor and spray it with sealer, no sliding problem as yet. I dug all of my drains while the contractor slept at night so they would end up where I wanted them. The floor is mostly level, but it does taper as it nears the drains (3). I set them at about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch low to assure this happened. Hope this helps, you will enjoy your project, especially if you participate in the building.

 

[Pks]

Bayrat,

What did you use for the drains: upside down oil drum or one of those plastic drains that are available from Home Depot?

Thanks, Peter

 

[StoneHeartFarm]

Pks

There are several different Truss styles that rise like you describe, you might want to hit a truss manufacturer and see what's available. I've also seen a few builders using the engineered joists as rafters in homes with vaulted ceilings. (Time will tell if that one is a good idea. Roofs tend to deal with a lot of moisture and if that OSB ribbon delaminates there won't be anything holding up the roof but a couple of 2x2's--oh well, it's the CoOde department's problem.)

You might consider a larger door. I went 9x10 with mine to make sure I had room enough to get my truck in and out. A little extra width can help a lot.

SHF

 

[Bayrat]

Peter,
<font color=blue>I used 4" PVC with 9" pre-made drains that were manufactured with a 3" discharge. I used reducers to make the connection to the 4". I used sweep tees as well.

 

[rbargeron]

Peter - your idea of one higher bay pretty much describes my barn. It is a 46' wide 40' deep saltbox design - on sloped land. The height had to kept low so it didn't dwarf the house (my wife is an architect - lucky me!) the building looks terrific.

Trusses are 32' long, 8:12 pitch warren (open center) except
the 10' bay with the lift has what are called "scissors trusses" - you can see them in <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/2-103430-5450lifted.jpg>this pic</A> if you look close.

Let me know if you'd like more details or pics.

 

[Timd]

I had been thinking that a saltbox design offers some real
design advantages for anyone who has a lot of implements
and equipment, especially if you set up to store things on
casters. Off-season and seldom used stuff can go in the back
where the roof is low, and you get a lot of storage area.

I've read a lot of carpentry books and web pages on framing,
but there's a real lack of information about how to frame up a
saltbox. The best I've been able to come up with is to build
it as a conventional roof but use a cross beam on posts to
carry the load of the long rafters to the low end wall plate.
Still don't have a clue how to do the gable end framing.
It never occurred to me that trusses might be available for
a saltbox roof. Would love to see more pix of your shop.

Timd