Filter Cart, Tank Magnets, etc. Pictures.

   / Filter Cart, Tank Magnets, etc. Pictures. #1  

SpringHollow

Elite Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2006
Messages
2,626
Location
South of Rochester, NY
Tractor
Power Trac 1850, NH 2120
I uploaded some pictures showing my filter cart, seat replacement, hydraulic tank modifications including magnets, and a couple of maintenance pages. I did not have time to create a new site right now so I just dumped them on my company site. When I have time, I will make a real site with appropriate navigation and more information such as more part numbers, etc. I just wanted to get these up as soon as I could since I would have found some of this useful. It took a while to upload them since I am on dial-up!

USA Discount Generators - Standby and Portable Gillette Generators

Ken
 
   / Filter Cart, Tank Magnets, etc. Pictures. #2  
Ken,

Great info and detail there. Thanks!
 
   / Filter Cart, Tank Magnets, etc. Pictures. #3  
ksimolo said:
I uploaded some pictures showing my filter cart, seat replacement, hydraulic tank modifications including magnets, and a couple of maintenance pages. I did not have time to create a new site right now so I just dumped them on my company site. When I have time, I will make a real site with appropriate navigation and more information such as more part numbers, etc. I just wanted to get these up as soon as I could since I would have found some of this useful. It took a while to upload them since I am on dial-up!

USA Discount Generators - Standby and Portable Gillette Generators

Ken
Love that second picture, what a monster :eek: Can't wait to see the completed site.
 
   / Filter Cart, Tank Magnets, etc. Pictures. #4  
Lookin good Ken. Thanks for the update with pictures.
 
   / Filter Cart, Tank Magnets, etc. Pictures. #5  
Great job Ken. Looking forward to hearing about the test run results. Thanks for posting the information and pictures.
 
   / Filter Cart, Tank Magnets, etc. Pictures. #6  
ksimolo said:
I uploaded some pictures showing my filter cart, seat replacement, hydraulic tank modifications including magnets, and a couple of maintenance pages. I did not have time to create a new site right now so I just dumped them on my company site. When I have time, I will make a real site with appropriate navigation and more information such as more part numbers, etc. I just wanted to get these up as soon as I could since I would have found some of this useful. It took a while to upload them since I am on dial-up!

USA Discount Generators - Standby and Portable Gillette Generators

Ken

Ken, I noticed that you are running those filters in series. If you keep it this way, the 1 micron filter will limit how much fluid is being filtered. You could get rid of the 10 micron filter, and it would not make any difference. I would recommend that you run them in parallel, so that the 10 micron can filter particles larger that 10, at a certain gpm. The 1 micron filter should be used as a bypass filter to filter particles greater than 1 micron, but will filter less fluid per minute. If you install a shut off valve before each filter, you can be more selective in your filter process. Just my humble opinion

I would also shorten up the return line so that the fluid is released near the top of the tank to allow the filtered fluid to help push the unfilter fluid down to the bottom.
 
   / Filter Cart, Tank Magnets, etc. Pictures.
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Hi JJ,

The system now flows at 4.5 GPM with cold oil through the 1 micron filter so I do not see any advantage to going to a true bypass (parallel) situation unless I am missing something. I think bypass is normally used where the smaller filter can not withstand the flow or pressure or where there is concern that the filter may clog and prevent flow. The latter is why I installed the adjustable bypass for safety - I do not have to worry about keeping an engine lubricated, etc. but just have to worry about the pressure getting higher than I would like. The 10 micron filter is probably unnecessary given the large size of the micron filter but they are relatively cheap so I figured I might as well.

I debated with myself on how to best locate the tank supply and return. I was concerned about the seat getting in the way of removing the magnets since they are 10 1/2 long. I originally had it designed with 2 3/8" holes in the cover and so the seat interference would have been a real issue. I changed the design to 3" holes (magnets are 2") so now the magnets can be tilted more while removing them. That would allow me to rotate the cover 180 degrees and put the return and supply closer to the rear of the tank, separating them further than they are now. I also thought about the heights like you recommended. Seeing so much glop on the bottom of my tank, I thought it might be best to try to filter out anything that is trying to settle out. I was hoping that the 45 degree elbows I put at the ends which are directed sort of towards the rear corners would also create a turnover top to bottom within each tank. When the filtering system was running, I could see surface flow in the top layer of oil through the fill cutout but it was hard to tell how well it was turning over. I thought I would use the PT for a little while and then remove one magnet to see if there are any filings attached. While the magnet was removed, I figured I would run the filter system. If I remembered which I doubt I will, I could put a little hydraulic dye in the oil in the filter hose leading to the filter cart and then see how well it mixes when it flows into the tank. If the mixing is poor, I will do as you suggest and see if that is any better.

I am certainly open to suggestions since I know nothing about this stuff (the only thing I am good at is worrying hence the magnets and filter system!) and so I really appreciated your input not to mention all of your prior posts!

Ken
 
   / Filter Cart, Tank Magnets, etc. Pictures. #8  
J_J said:
Ken, I noticed that you are running those filters in series. If you keep it this way, the 1 micron filter will limit how much fluid is being filtered. You could get rid of the 10 micron filter, and it would not make any difference. I would recommend that you run them in parallel, so that the 10 micron can filter particles larger that 10, at a certain gpm. The 1 micron filter should be used as a bypass filter to filter particles greater than 1 micron, but will filter less fluid per minute. If you install a shut off valve before each filter, you can be more selective in your filter process. Just my humble opinion
I think the larger commercial filter carts typically have two filters mounted in series.

My understanding of the theory of operation is that the first filter removes larger particles to reduce the loading of the finer filter--which is typically more expensive.
 
   / Filter Cart, Tank Magnets, etc. Pictures. #9  
Dear Ken,

Have you considered using the strap-on magnents that JC Whitney (& others) sell for the outside of oil filters? It would get the fine sludge to accumulate out of the tank and close to the filters, where if it aggregates, it will be trapped.

Just a thought. The rest of the setup looks pretty slick. Have you found any drying filters that would remove emulsified water from the detergent oil?

All the best,

Peter

ksimolo said:
Hi JJ,

The system now flows at 4.5 GPM with cold oil through the 1 micron filter so I do not see any advantage to going to a true bypass (parallel) situation unless I am missing something. I think bypass is normally used where the smaller filter can not withstand the flow or pressure or where there is concern that the filter may clog and prevent flow. The latter is why I installed the adjustable bypass for safety - I do not have to worry about keeping an engine lubricated, etc. but just have to worry about the pressure getting higher than I would like. The 10 micron filter is probably unnecessary given the large size of the micron filter but they are relatively cheap so I figured I might as well.

I debated with myself on how to best locate the tank supply and return. I was concerned about the seat getting in the way of removing the magnets since they are 10 1/2 long. I originally had it designed with 2 3/8" holes in the cover and so the seat interference would have been a real issue. I changed the design to 3" holes (magnets are 2") so now the magnets can be tilted more while removing them. That would allow me to rotate the cover 180 degrees and put the return and supply closer to the rear of the tank, separating them further than they are now. I also thought about the heights like you recommended. Seeing so much glop on the bottom of my tank, I thought it might be best to try to filter out anything that is trying to settle out. I was hoping that the 45 degree elbows I put at the ends which are directed sort of towards the rear corners would also create a turnover top to bottom within each tank. When the filtering system was running, I could see surface flow in the top layer of oil through the fill cutout but it was hard to tell how well it was turning over. I thought I would use the PT for a little while and then remove one magnet to see if there are any filings attached. While the magnet was removed, I figured I would run the filter system. If I remembered which I doubt I will, I could put a little hydraulic dye in the oil in the filter hose leading to the filter cart and then see how well it mixes when it flows into the tank. If the mixing is poor, I will do as you suggest and see if that is any better.

I am certainly open to suggestions since I know nothing about this stuff (the only thing I am good at is worrying hence the magnets and filter system!) and so I really appreciated your input not to mention all of your prior posts!

Ken
 
   / Filter Cart, Tank Magnets, etc. Pictures.
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Hi Peter,

The main reason I went with the tank magnets other than being paranoid is that the PT only sends a small percentage of the oil being pumped through the filter at any given time so I wanted something to help trap stuff in the tank.

If there was more room on the PT, I would be tempted to compact the filter cart down and install it and a 12 V pump on the PT. One possibility would be to mount it in a metal box where the fire extinguisher is but then I would have to undo the disconnects every time I open the engine cover. That would not be the end of the world. Would add extra weight to the cover though.

Paper filters will absorb a little water but not much and the bypass filter is synthetic. I have read some of the "toilet paper" bypass filters can absorb a reasonable amount of water. I will have to see if there is a reasonable filter out there that can get rid of the water. I can think of some chemical means but that might cause more problems than it solves. Good idea about seeing if there is something out there that would remove emulsified water. If I did not need multi-viscosity oil, I would have gone non-detergent to help minimize that problem.

Take care,

Ken
 

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