About to take the PT plunge

[ernemats]

There is still a pt 425 listed in the classifieds on tractor by net site. Chris in central Pa has it listed with brush mower .

 

[Rivco]

The 180 is a great little machine. It did everything I needed. The cost to add the extra hydraulic circuit was less than $350.00 ( not including my labor to install it ). I no longer own the 180 ,but If I was thinking about buying another PT I would go with the 425 for all the reasons already mentioned.

PS The only difference between the 18 Hp. & 22 Hp. is the carburetor and Governor setting. I did a lot of modifications to my 180 including upgrading the 18 Hp. to 22 Hp.

 

[MossRoad]

1. Grapple bucket
2. Minihoe with thumb
3. Rough-cut mower

That would be a pretty potent package.

 

[Homebrew]

Once again, thanks for all the advice. At this point, I think I'm going to go with a 422, brush cutter, grapple bucket, and likely the hoe w/thumb. I'll probably do bar tires...do most people fill the tires with something for all the briers and brush?

 

[KentT]

Once again, thanks for all the advice. At this point, I think I'm going to go with a 422, brush cutter, grapple bucket, and likely the hoe w/thumb. I'll probably do bar tires...do most people fill the tires with something for all the briers and brush?

Good choices, IMO...

Bar tires are a good choice for your application. The way the PT articulates to steer they don't damage your lawn at all -- most you'll see is a few dimples if you're on it when it's real wet and soft. They will leave tread marks in that condition.

Suggest you plan on putting Slime or something similar (lot's of people recommend the sealant from Gempler's) in them. Doing this early will avoid a lot of potential frustration, IMO.

Also be aware that the PT's wheels have two valve stems (for the dual wheels used on other machines), and that the inside valve stem is easily broken off by getting sticks or debris caught up in the area around the wheel motors. People have solved that by (a) having them welded over, (b) reversing that valve stem, putting the stem down inside the wheel, and (c) using heavy-duty metal ones that have threated nuts to hold them in...

 

[toy]

Hi all,
I've been eyeing up the PT's for a couple of years now and I think I'm about to take the plunge. I have about 3 acres full of field stone and underbrush I plan to clear. I also plan to use the PT to mow the lawn. At current prices I can get the PT180 with brush cutter, rock bucket, and stump grinder for about $7k. I hope to be able to cut all the underbrush..consisting mostly of cherry saplings and greenbrier. There's also quite a bit of rock to move.

I think the mini-hoe would be nice, but I just can't seem to justify the extra cost of the 4xx machines and I think I can get rid of the larger trees by chainsaw and stump grinder rater than digging with the mini-hoe.

I understand that the brush cutter gives a reasonable finish cut, so I only plan to get the one mower.

Any suggestions or things I should be considering?

Thanks!

I would make a list of the differences between the 180, 422, and the 425. The 425 comes with the rops my wife insisted on me getting the rops no matter which machine I got so if you added that to the price of the 422 which I also considered then you consider the two steering cylinders on the 425 versus only one on the other two, I believe ,how much would that be worth to you, then each of the machines have a different lift height. Then there is the higher torque wheel motors on the 425 and a larger engine. Then the 180 doesn't have an oil cooler on it you could add that later but at what cost The 180 doesn't have the hydraulic quick attach, the lose of that hydraulic power source how important is that to you especially considering how long you intend to keep the machine. There is probably other differences that i'm not thinking of right now but doing a comparison of the differences between the machines and is the differences worth the extra that you would pay for it can help in your decision. If you are intending to pay cash for the machine then that might influence your decision but if you have a thought of upgrading a smaller machine to have the specs of a larger machine at a later date is that really cost effective? If you intend on financing the machine then how much of a difference would there be in the payment of each of the machines? Maybe that might help you decide which suits you the best. There is one other thing that I would like to mention that I don't think anyone else has mentioned that is the forks I almost didn't get them when I got my pt but I believe it was Mosse's post that convinced me to get them and I am real glad that I did I use them all the time. The forks is a real back saver worth every penny in my book. I hope you get the machine that best suits your needs and that you enjoy the fire out of it, I meant work the fire out of it. If you don't go pick it up yourself then have a pleasant wait for it [like a kid waiting for Christmas I would think]. When I ordered mine I had to wait for them to make it so I know a little about the long wait. I don't regret for one minute getting my pt it fit my needs.

 

[BobRip]

I to did almost not get the forks, but am very glad I did. They are extemely useful and one of the cheaper attachments. When I buy equipment (drill press, milling machine), I can unload it myself and not pay the $75 lift gate fee. I now try to make most equipment forks compatible, that is it can be easily moved with the forks.

 

[Homebrew]

Well...here I am again...back to square one...I keep coming to the conclusion that in the long run, a 425 looks like the best bet. I tried to convince myself the 180 would suffice...then up to the 422....now I figure I might as well bite the bullet and get the 425!

Okay...so lot's to think about. I'll consider the forks...although it could give me another excuse to drive to Tazewell down the road if I don't get them now.

Another question...very minor...what's your opinion of the armrests? Are they handy? Comfortable? Get in the way? The cost is small, but if they end up in the way, then obviously quite a waste.

 

[KentT]

Well...here I am again...back to square one...I keep coming to the conclusion that in the long run, a 425 looks like the best bet. I tried to convince myself the 180 would suffice...then up to the 422....now I figure I might as well bite the bullet and get the 425!

Okay...so lot's to think about. I'll consider the forks...although it could give me another excuse to drive to Tazewell down the road if I don't get them now.

Another question...very minor...what's your opinion of the armrests? Are they handy? Comfortable? Get in the way? The cost is small, but if they end up in the way, then obviously quite a waste.

You're circling the same path that MANY of us have gone round-and-round on...

IMO, the 425 is the "sweet spot" of the entire PT lineup, when it comes to balancing capbilities vs cost. For example, to move one step higher (30HP 1430) costs 60% more just for the base tractor, then every attachment is also more expensive (but also larger). I don't think you'd regret spending the "little bit more" to get the 425. I've just paid almost that much to upgrade the wheel motors on my old one -- which happen to the the same motors as on the new 422. For that amount of money, you not only get increased lift height, ROPS, two steering cylinders, but MUCH stronger wheel motors with 1.25" shafts (vs 1") and tapered roller bearings instead of thrust bearings. The White RS-series wheel motors used on the 180s and 422s are truly not intended to be used as wheel motors -- just drive motors for hydraulic applications, while the White CE motors on the 425 were engineered so they can be as wheel motors. The wheel motors on the 425 not only give you more torque, but they should be much more durable over time.

White CE info -- designed to be wheel motors:
CE Motor [400, 420, & 430 Series] : White Drive Products, Inc.

White RS info -- designed to be inexpensive:
RS Motor [200 Series] : White Drive Products, Inc.

 

[MuncyBob]

I have the arm rests and they come in handy because I do not buckle up(no ROPS on my 422)...but they are cheap and in hind sight not worth the $$! They don't seem to get in the way even if I turn as far as I can in either directions(somebody previously said that they do interfere with their tractor?). 2 seams are coming apart on them(the underside) with only apprx 300 hours on the PT. Actually, from what I have read...if you can handle the higher seat height you would be better off upgrading the PT seat to a nice seat with good arm rests and better suspension.. I can't do that as I mow grass under some very low apple trees.