wheel removal on 1430

[kjm3232]

The other day i was going to do some work outside when i noticed an oil puddle by the right wheel. i was going to pull the wheel to see where the leak was coming from. I removed the cotter pin and put a 1 5/8 socket on the nut. I then put an 18" breaker bar and couldn't remove the socket. I then put a 2' pipe over the 18" breaker bar and still cant get the nut off. I had put WD40 on the threads to try to loosen it up for the breaker bar to get it off and still cant get the nut off. Any suggestion on removing the nut other than applying a torch to get it off or using a inpact wrench which i dont have? thanks

 

[BobRip]

Could it be a left hand thread? I can't tell when looking at my 422.

 

[ponytug]

Are you trying to remove the wheel motor? The hub? Or the wheel?

Sorry for being dense, but it sounds like you want to remove the motor, which has the oil, rather than the rim. (Remove the bolts- after 1st jacking up the tractor on stands and cleaning and disconnecting the hydraulic hoses, and plugging the hoses!)

All the best,

Peter

 

[J_J]

Peter. I think he is trying to remove the hub to see if the front seal is leaking, and he has to remove the nut on the tapered shaft for the hub to come off. I don't believe it is left hand thread.

 

[KentT]

I don't believe it is left hand thread.

The 425's wheel motors are NOT left hand thread. Can't speak for the other models but I'd assume they aren't either.

What happens is that you torque the castellated nut down to the desired minimum torque, then you find that the slot for the cotter pin doesn't mate up with the hole in the shaft, so the only alternative is to tighten it down even further to get the pin in...

If you loosen the nut to get the pin in, you'll have not met the minimum torque specs, and risk it working loose...

 

[kjm3232]

Peter. I think he is trying to remove the hub to see if the front seal is leaking, and he has to remove the nut on the tapered shaft for the hub to come off. I don't believe it is left hand thread.

jj you are correct, i'm trying to remove the wheel/rim to see what's leaking. the way it looks to me, i have to remove the big nut and the black plate first, then the 5 or 6 bolts in order to get the wheel off so i can see what's actually leaking.

 

[KentT]

jj you are correct, i'm trying to remove the wheel/rim to see what's leaking. the way it looks to me, i have to remove the big nut and the black plate first, then the 5 or 6 bolts in order to get the wheel off so i can see what's actually leaking.

You can simply unbolt the wheel from the hub to remove it, similar to changing a flat tire on your car. While this won't completely expose the front of the wheel motor, it will make it much easier to see down in there...

You then can pull the hub off (after removing that large nut) with a large gear/pully puller, if necessary. You don't remove the wheel and mounting hub all at one time...

 

[woodlandfarms]

Kent gave you the right info.. You do NOT remove the big nut, just the small ones like when you change a tire.

I was thinking my wheel motor had failed, but it turned out to be just a hose that had loosened up and was dripping. Where exactly are you seeing the oil (is it around the big nut?). Terry told me last week that if you see oil on the big nut then you might have a bad motor seal. Otherwise it is probably a hose...

 

[kjm3232]

I was thinking my wheel motor had failed, but it turned out to be just a hose that had loosened up and was dripping. Where exactly are you seeing the oil (is it around the big nut?). Terry told me last week that if you see oil on the big nut then you might have a bad motor seal. Otherwise it is probably a hose...[/QUOTE]


i wasn't seeing the oil around the big nut. It was on the backside of the wheel and some on the floor. i'll be taking the wheel off and see where i have to go next to fixed the problem. thanks all for the good info.

 

[farm23]

I had a similar leak. It turned out to be the seals on the motor. Fortunately the 1430 was in warranty and I sent both front motors back to PT for only the cost of the freight.