Robin Ignition coil

[ernemats]

Has anyone ever replaced the ignition coils on their Robin engine? Mine started back firing the other day, Terry thought replacing the spark plugs would fix the problem, no such luck,checked and reset the valves still back fires some , the spark to the left cylinder is not steady, so we think the ignition coil is the problem. I guess the engine has to be pulled to get to the ignition coils. This is my first major problem with my power trac over 10 years old and almost 1,400 hours on it.

 

[ldabe]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/102459-carb-problems.html
Re: Carb problems (08-03-2007)

Thought I would bring this up to date.

I was drowning in other projects/businesses (that bring in money) so I figured I would just take it in and let someone else who has the time/place/tools and knowledge to work on this.
I went to the Robin site to find someone to service the engine in my area...8 miles down the road...so far so good.
Service man said approx. $200 to find/fix the popping problem, change eng. oil, hydro oil, hydro oil tank gasket, fix a broken zerk fitting. I supplied the eng. oil filter & hydro oil filter.

One full month later (after 3-4 calls...part on back order...ignition coil) and $400 dollars above the quote, I have the PT-422 back.

Labor: $180
Material: $413.56
Tax: 24.81
Total: 618.37

Majority of price for parts/material was for 2 ignition coils at $116.88 each.
There was a few other material/parts not mentioned that came to approx. $35-40 bucks (no big deal).

The 1 month wait, was what bothered me the most.

 

[J_J]

I hate to say this, but you should have had a written estimate, with a total limit written down. Those shops like that kind of arrangement, an open ended repair, so they can pad the bill, and if you don't pay, they keep or sell the machine. Just don't use them again since you know how they operate. It appears it took him about 4 hr at $45. to do all this, or $60 . at 3 hrs. I doubt that both coils were bad. Did you get the old parts back.

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/robin63_Ign.cfm

 

[duane]

Ernemats:

I replaced my robin engine coils as part of a recall. Here are the major steps from what I remember, you will fill in other steps as you go. In order to get to the coils, you have to remove the engine shroud. That means pulling the engine up out of the tub enough to get clearance. That means, removing the muffler, removing the battery, disconnect the hydro cable to the tram pump, removing the front tram and rear PTO hydraulic pumps. Try to match mark the engine to the engine mount, and then unbolt the engine. Using a chain fall, lift engine just enough to remove the shroud, and then replace the coils.

When reassembling, re-align the engine to the front tram pump using your match marks and confirm the alignment with straight edges. If you search for lovejoy alignment criteria, you can find the specs. As I remember, the engine sits a little high, but within specs. It is tight getting to the engine mounting bolts. Have the PT on jack stands with all 4 tires off of the ground so that when you restart, if the hydroback cable is not properly adjusted, the machine does not take off on you. You can adjust the cable for neutral with no creep while on the jack stands. One other member who replaced the coils forgot to connect the ignition ground wire, and when the PT restarted, it took off because the hydroback cable was not properly adjusted, and he could not turn off the engine. A wall stopped the PT.

Hope this helps.

 

[BobRip]

I replaced mine (for recall reasons) without lifting up the engine. I took the pump in front loose and then could slide the engine shroud forward enough to barely access the coils. Removing the engine would make it easier if you have the engine hoist. I have a model year 2000 with pumps in front of and behind the engine. Your machine may be different.

 

[ldabe]

JJ,
No, I did not get the old parts.

It seems I always "pay" for my learning.

But, I am still praising the Lord Jesus, so it can't be all that bad.

 

[ldabe]

Speaking of paying for learning...

I tried driving a stainless steel well point with galvanized pipe.

I did this with a sledge hammer, in mostly sandy ground.

It bent the tip of the of the point, the connection of the well point to the pipe, and the connection for a short piece of pipe to use as the drive cap.

The good news, is the hardware store took all material back and reimbursed my money. They said they have never seen that before.

That was about $250.00 in material.

The company who put my well in for the house said they would wash a pvc well point down for $350.00 (but if it did not work, or pan out, they still charged $200.00 for attempting with two men, truck, and equipment.)

Guess what? It didn't pan out, so out $200.00.

The clay (hard pan) is at 5 and a half to 6 feet.

Another lesson learned....

Dig down as far as you can, take a 10' section of 1" and a quarter pvc, jam it up and down, twist, jam it up and down, as far as you can, then bring it up to check the soil (or clay) sample.

By the way, this is a PT forum, so here is the PT portion.

I used the PT-422 to pull the bent stainless steel well point back up out of the ground.

 

[J_J]

ldabe ,


My advice would be to only put your trust in those you believe that deserve it, especially service people. People in business need to make money, and they are not looking out for your welfare. Even your friends will let you down if the situation sours or goes down hill. In todays world, trust doesn't go very far. It is hard to teach, but it is learned by some. What are those famous words, business is business.

 

[J_J]

ldabe ,

On the well thing. I have punched through several layers of hard-pan using galvanized pipe, with a stainless coupling on the end, with teeth cut in the edge. Drop and turn, over and over. It will take a while, but not much. That stainless fitting will break up the hard-pan. Good luck.

 

[ernemats]

I finally finished replacing the ignition coil ans some other things. I did not do everything the same as Bobrip or Duane suggested they had done. I unbolted the engine platform from the tub as Terry said, I then took the muffler off, took rear pump off, took front pump off , removed the battery and fuel tank. Then I could slide the motor back enough to get the shroud off enough to get at the ignition coil on the left side. During this process I discovered the front lovejoy spider was bad, had to wait several more days to get a new one,(picture of old one). Got everything together today and ran it for about 30 minutes repairing my driveway the rain had washed out yesterday. It seems to be running good. Thanks for the helpful suggestions.