I had a wheel motor go down last week, the seals went out on it. I jacked the machine up and took the tire off to see where the oil was coming from, hoping it was just a hose that needed tightened but it was leaking around the shaft. Not counting jacking the machine up and taking the tire off, it took 10 minutes to take the wheel motor off and put it in plastic bags and put it in a pan. I live less than 2 hours away from the pt factory so I took it there and let them put the seals in, it took them 50 minutes to do the job. It would have took me a lot longer to do the job probably as I would have had to improvise on some of the tools that they used to do job. They charged $85 for parts and labor, if I lived as far away as some of you do I would have took it to the local hydraulic shop or did it myself. When I got home it took me 18 minutes to put the wheel motor back on and put the wheel back on and let the machine back down. That didn't count the time it took to refill the hydraulic tank and bleed it of air. I believe the wheel motor went down because I hit a rock as I was backing up. My wheel motor had the tags still on it. That was a quick repair I think but I believe the next time I could do it faster.
425 wheel motor failure
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MossRoad
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Good to hear it is not too hard to get the motor off and on again.
ponytug
Super Member
Hit a rock? As in crashed? Or bounced? Or jammed a rim?
Just curious.
I'm glad to hear the repair went quickly.
All the best,
Peter
Just curious.
I'm glad to hear the repair went quickly.
All the best,
Peter
pajoube
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Thank you for the info, I am in the same position and ordered the wheel motor seal kit with new bearing but have not attempted to do it myself. Probably will look for a local shop.
PJ
The state widened the road across the creek from my bottom and in one place the edge of the pavement was at the very edge of the bank and the bank was straight up and down. We had floods this summer and the creek washed out from under that pavement and when they came to repair it they made the bank slope at about 45 degree slope which narrowed the creek down considerable and they poured concrete on it and that will cause my bottom to erode so I got in the creek and cleaned it out and made it deeper to try to prevent my bottom from flooding. There was a rock sticking out of their concrete and it was about a foot high or a little better. While backing up I hit that rock with the rear wheel and it stopped the pt with all the force being on that one wheel motor, and that is why I believe that is what caused the wheel motor to go down. I feel that the state did me wrong but the bank at each end of the repair is about a 45 degree slope so they matched it in with that so it looks as though that is the way the bank was all along.
How much did the seal kit with the bearings cost. The difference between that and the $85 is what the repair cost in labor. I remember someone on here saying that they had a hard time getting the hub off. I had thought about getting a steel plate and drilling holes to match the bolt pattern of the hub and taking the nut off and using bolts in the hub and tightening them up to push the hub off, but then I would have needed a press to push it back on again and to push the bearings back on and the time I would have spent cobling up something to do the job that it would have been cheaper to let them do it.
ponytug
Super Member
This makes sense. I was wondering how hitting a rock would blow a seal, but I can see that this would do it.
If the stream was eroding the road bank, it suggest that is where the force of water is, so you should be relatively safe from further erosion. If stream is narrowed, then the velocity goes up (assuming it stays in the banks, which is your concern). The ability to carry sediment goes up as something close the sixth power of the water velocity, so a little narrowing will have a profound effect on the erosion.
I wonder if you want to consider things that will slow down the water, which will reduce the erosion, but increases the chances that the stream will spill its banks. (free soil/fertilizer?)
Most of the states that I have lived in, you can't alter watercourses without fairly involved discussions with the state regulators... Wisconsin used to regulate any navigable waterway, which was defined as the ability to float a timber (I think it was 6"x6"x8'.). Of course, if you could do it at spring flood, it counted. So, if it flooded to more than about five inches, you had a navigable waterway, subject to regulation...
All the best,
Peter
If the stream was eroding the road bank, it suggest that is where the force of water is, so you should be relatively safe from further erosion. If stream is narrowed, then the velocity goes up (assuming it stays in the banks, which is your concern). The ability to carry sediment goes up as something close the sixth power of the water velocity, so a little narrowing will have a profound effect on the erosion.
I wonder if you want to consider things that will slow down the water, which will reduce the erosion, but increases the chances that the stream will spill its banks. (free soil/fertilizer?)
Most of the states that I have lived in, you can't alter watercourses without fairly involved discussions with the state regulators... Wisconsin used to regulate any navigable waterway, which was defined as the ability to float a timber (I think it was 6"x6"x8'.). Of course, if you could do it at spring flood, it counted. So, if it flooded to more than about five inches, you had a navigable waterway, subject to regulation...
All the best,
Peter
pajoube
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