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  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    42
    Location
    Lakes Region, New Hampshire
    Tractor
    PT 425

    Default Modifications to PT425

    Attached are some pictures of the cab and other modifications I have made, a lot of which I learned from members at this site. Everyone here is great for all kinds of ideas and help.
    My Modifications:
    1. Moved head lights to top of ROPS - I did this mainly because I use my PT a lot in the dark during the winter for moving snow. When the lights were mounted low, they just shined at the back of the snow blower.
    2. Added Suicide Knob - makes steering with one hand very easy. I would call this a necessity.
    3. Added Rear lights - the red ones were just so people could see me at night and are wired into the headlight circuit, the white one is for backing up, on its own switch.
    4. Added Gas Gauge - I wanted to know how much gas I had left without having to get off and check, this has been very useful.
    5. Added Lighted switches on dash - current only one is used for the white backup light. I wasn't sure how to mount the panel but the switches fit so well in the holes, I just push them in and the panel stays in place, nice and tight. The panel is 1/8" aluminum, still to be painted.
    6. Added Extension for the quick attach lever - I have the backhoe attachment and this modification is really a necessity. Bracket is made from aluminum and attaches a steel rod (bent and ground flat at the end) to the existing handle, no drilling or threading of the existing handle. Cover is a golf grip.
    7. Cab - I need something to keep the blowing snow off me when using the snow blower, but I also wanted it to look good, like it belonged there from the factory. I debated whether to use the ROPS or not, not using it would have been much easier, but I decide for safety sake I should use it, so I came up with this design. I moved the ROPS up as far as possible to have room for the joystick and steering wheel and it gave me just enough room so I could mount the windshield (1/4" Plexiglass w/hand operated windshield wiper) on the ROPS without interfering with them. Door frames are made out of 1" square aluminum with a lower panel of 1/8" aluminum, middle panel of 1/4" plexiglass and the top section of heat shrink plastic. Doors are mounted to the ROPS with a removable hinge so the doors lift right off the hinge for easy removal. The pieces for the door are held together using a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum cut at the proper angle and width then inserted inside the tubing and held in place by drilling, taping and screwing together. The back panel is a combination of the 1" square tubing and the 1/8" alum sheet for the sides, back window is heat shrink plastic. It is held in place by 3 screws on each side into the ROPS top. I was very pleased with the result looks good, gives great visibility, doesn't feel cramped, keeps the snow out, is fairly rugged and is easy to remove for summer by removing 6 screws.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -dcw-cab-jpg   -dcw-cab-back-jpg   -dcw-cab-door-open-jpg   -dcw-cab-interior-jpg   -handle-sm-1-jpg  


  2. #2
    Elite Member woodlandfarms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,271
    Location
    Los Angeles / SW Washington
    Tractor
    PowerTrac 1850

    Default Re: Modifications to PT425

    I guess you have the cab, but are there any lighted switches that can stand being exposed to the outdoors...
    Power-Trac 1850, grapple, hoe, 90" mower, 72" box blade

  3. #3
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,171
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Tractor
    Power Trac PT1445

    Default Re: Modifications to PT425

    Dear Carl,

    There are lots;

    Toggle switches
    Marine toggle switches
    Rocker switches
    Otto Rockers

    The first two are drop in replacements, while the latter three are designed for marine (i.e. harsh) environments.

    West Marine has a lots of other ones. I tend to prefer marine switches, since they are generally designed to withstand a little more abuse than other types. Look for marine, or direct spray or IP6 or IP7 rated switches and you should be good. Just don't plan on power washing your dash with your power washer.

    That's a whole other level of water resistance.

    All the best,

    Peter

    Quote Originally Posted by woodlandfarms View Post
    I guess you have the cab, but are there any lighted switches that can stand being exposed to the outdoors...

  4. #4
    Elite Member woodlandfarms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,271
    Location
    Los Angeles / SW Washington
    Tractor
    PowerTrac 1850

    Default Re: Modifications to PT425

    I did not know that on the power washer... Guess this stuff is splash resistant, not water resistant...
    Power-Trac 1850, grapple, hoe, 90" mower, 72" box blade

  5. #5
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,171
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Tractor
    Power Trac PT1445

    Default Re: Modifications to PT425

    Carl,
    You bring up some good points. The concept of water and dust proof is a little complicated and the ratings aren't linear, in the sense that IP-67 may not be better than IP-66 depending upon your use. IP-68 is tough to find.
    People often leave off the first digit, if it is 6, since waterproofness implies dustproofness in general, so IP-67 is often referred to as IP-7. (That's clear as mud, right?)

    Technically, the ratings are IP-(Number 1)(Number 2)(Number 3) . The first number specifies foreign body protection (e.g. dust) and the second number refers to water. The third number relates to impact resistance and is not commonly specified

    IP ratings IP-NN
    First Index - Foreign Bodies Protection, Solids

    Index #, Protection against Human/Tool Contact, Protection against solid objects (foreign bodies)

    0 No special protection
    1 Back of hand, Fist Large foreign bodies, diam. >50mm
    2 Finger Medium-sized foreign bodies, diam. >12
    3 Tools and wires etc with a thickness >2.5mm Small foreign bodies, diam. >2.5mm
    4 Tools and wires etc with a thickness >1mm Granular foreign bodies, diam. >1mm
    5 Complete protection, (limited ingress permitted) Dust protected; dust deposits are permitted, but their volume must not affect the function of the unit.
    6 Complete protection Dust-proof


    Second Index - Water Protection, Liquids

    Index #, Protection against water, Protection from condition

    0 No special protection
    1 Water dripping/falling vertically Condensation/Light rain
    2 Water sprayed at an angle (up to 15コ degrees from the vertical) Light rain with wind
    3 Spray water (any direction up to 60コ degrees from the vertical) Heavy rainstorm
    4 Spray water from all directions, (limited ingress permitted) Splashing
    5 Low pressure water jets from all directions, (limited ingress permitted) Hose down, residential
    6 High pressure jets from all directions, (limited ingress permitted) Hose down, commercial. eg. Ship decks
    7 Temporary immersion, 15 cm to 1m Immersion in tank
    8 Permanent Immersion, under pressure For use on the outside of submarines.

    There is a similar, but different code from the National Electric Manufacturers Association, NEMA. NEMA 4 is roughly IP67.
    See Understanding IP Ratings for more information.

    Note that under IP-67 that limited water ingress is permitted under high pressure washing. Two things result from that a) the switch can have water in it after being pressure washed and b) that a drain for the removal of water is not allowed. Do you really want water staying permanently in your switches?



    All the best,

    Peter
    Quote Originally Posted by woodlandfarms View Post
    I did not know that on the power washer... Guess this stuff is splash resistant, not water resistant...

  6. #6
    Gold Member 3238dpw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    320
    Location
    Central NJ
    Tractor
    Power Trac 425, C-121 Wheel Horse, 2 Exmark 60 inch zero turn mowers

    Default Re: Modifications to PT425

    Well I am impressed. That is the best looking cab that looks like it belongs and most importantly I could build. Do you have any plans for closing in the back section or is that part of your project for heat.

    There have also been a few requests, myself included, who would like some pics of your snow blower. So don't hold back any longer. Video would be even better
    Scott

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    42
    Location
    Lakes Region, New Hampshire
    Tractor
    PT 425

    Default Re: Modifications to PT425

    Quote Originally Posted by 3238dpw View Post
    Well I am impressed. That is the best looking cab that looks like it belongs and most importantly I could build. Do you have any plans for closing in the back section or is that part of your project for heat.

    There have also been a few requests, myself included, who would like some pics of your snow blower. So don't hold back any longer. Video would be even better
    I have attached a couple of pictures of the snow blower in action, but I don't have video. These were taken with over 1' of snow while the cab was in process of construction last year. You can see from the last picture why I wanted the cab, the snow blows in you face quite a bit.

    As far as finishing the enclosure, I am thinking of using some canvas attached with velcro. I think it has to be flexible given the various positions the rear of the tractor can be in because of the articulation. It is still a work in progress, but I'm getting close being finished.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -p1040135-jpg   -p1040139-jpg  

  8. #8
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    300
    Tractor
    Toro 266H and PT422

    Default Re: Modifications to PT425

    DC,

    Thanks for the pix. Do you find that you have enough horsepower. I tried to convert a single stage for use with the PT, but found the hydraulic PTO was not enough. Do you have good snow throw distance.

  9. #9
    Epic Contributor MossRoad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    24,173
    Location
    South Bend, Indiana (near)
    Tractor
    Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year

    Default Re: Modifications to PT425

    Quote Originally Posted by DCWhitley View Post
    I have attached a couple of pictures of the snow blower in action, but I don't have video. These were taken with over 1' of snow while the cab was in process of construction last year. You can see from the last picture why I wanted the cab, the snow blows in you face quite a bit.

    As far as finishing the enclosure, I am thinking of using some canvas attached with velcro. I think it has to be flexible given the various positions the rear of the tractor can be in because of the articulation. It is still a work in progress, but I'm getting close being finished.
    A question and an observation...

    How does the chute on the snowblower get turned? I'm gonna take a guess and say the main PTO powers the blower and the AUX PTO knee lever powers the chute rotation direction, but just want to confirm.

    I think your idea about using fabric to enclose the bottom is about the only way to go. There is a ton of flex in the unit when it articulates AND oscillates. I have the factory arm rests and they will rub the engine cover when I am in full articulation and oscillation.
    MossRoad

    Click On My Little Tractor
    To See Pictures And Videos
    Of It In Action!!!


  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    42
    Location
    Lakes Region, New Hampshire
    Tractor
    PT 425

    Default Re: Modifications to PT425

    Quote Originally Posted by duane View Post
    DC,

    Thanks for the pix. Do you find that you have enough horsepower. I tried to convert a single stage for use with the PT, but found the hydraulic PTO was not enough. Do you have good snow throw distance.
    Duane - there is plenty of power. Sometime when it is deep, over 12 inches, you have to go slow when you have to take a full pass, but that is the same with any snow blower. You have to match your speed with the amount of snow you are moving, but I find it more that adequate. I do use the engine wide open as suggested by Terry for max power.

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