Cold Weather

[American Bulldog]

So there have been highs in the low 20's all week, and I left my PT 1460 outside since Saturday. Yesterday I decided I better get this thing back in the heated garage. To start it I used a MAPP gas torch and heated up the intake manifold for a couple minutes. I was then able to start it no problem. Really need to get the glow plugs.

The tram pump works really screwy when it is this cold. Once warmed up it returns to normal.

[20 20]

They say it is going to warm up a bit sat and sun, but then it's going to drop back down. I quess we could say maybe winter is finally here?

[MossRoad]

When I start my PT425 I let it run at about 1/2 throttle with the parking brake set and go hand shovel the steps and sidewalk. That takes about 10 minutes. By the time I get back the hydraulics are nice and warm and off I go to do the driveway. Without that warm up period, the machine is just too stiff to operate effectively.

[SpringHollow]

The "glow plugs" are nice. If you stop someplace, you do not need to get out the torch etc. And 10 seconds and you go. No opening up the engine compartment etc. I use them when the temps are in the 50's or lower. The engine starts easier and makes significantly less smoke when i do so. They were $65 but i do not regret installing them. Besides, the pictures of them working are neat (I am easily amused).

USA Discount Generators - Standby and Portable Gillette Generators

[PTWannaHave]

...By the time I get back the hydraulics are nice and warm and off I go to do the driveway. Without that warm up period, the machine is just too stiff to operate effectively.

Has anyone with cold winters just switched the hydraulic oil and engine oil to synthetic and notice a remarkable difference in cold weather starting and pre-warmed up operation...? (I would think/guess/hope that synthetic would help greatly on the hydraulic side, by remaining fluid at low temperatures...)

Cheers,

[American Bulldog]

Has anyone with cold winters just switched the hydraulic oil and engine oil to synthetic and notice a remarkable difference in cold weather starting and pre-warmed up operation...? (I would think/guess/hope that synthetic would help greatly on the hydraulic side, by remaining fluid at low temperatures...)

Cheers,

The oil doesn't seem to affect starting on the Deutz. The starter and battery are able to turn the engine over no problem. The unit is filled with motor oil, and that stuff doesn't gel up until it gets really cold. Pre-heating the oil would probably help more than using synthetic, but this would be more for helping the machine to run correctly faster. The big advantages of synthetic are as follows:

1. doesn't break down at higher temps, so if the oil gets overheated it will survive better.

2. Is more resistant to water.

3. Lasts longer while maintaining viscosity.


supposedly synthetic does not transfer heat as well, which is actually a bad point.

Glow plugs is definitely the way to go with the diesels.

[MossRoad]

Has anyone with cold winters just switched the hydraulic oil and engine oil to synthetic and notice a remarkable difference in cold weather starting and pre-warmed up operation...? (I would think/guess/hope that synthetic would help greatly on the hydraulic side, by remaining fluid at low temperatures...)

Cheers,

It was cost prohibitive for me to switch to synthetic motor oil in the hydraulic system. $225-$250 for 10 gallons of Mobil1. I saw it on sale for $20.00 a gallon just last weekend. It was 5W30. I currently am running 10W40 in there I think). It is 9 years old and has had 7 filter changes, so there is 7 quarts of fresher oil in there. I may change it out at 10 years, and if so, I will probably change a bunch of hydraulic hoses and such before investing in the synthetic oil.

I did switch to synthetic in the motor after the first oil change.

[KentT]

The oil doesn't seem to affect starting on the Deutz. The starter and battery are able to turn the engine over no problem. The unit is filled with motor oil, and that stuff doesn't gel up until it gets really cold. Pre-heating the oil would probably help more than using synthetic, but this would be more for helping the machine to run correctly faster. The big advantages of synthetic are as follows:

1. doesn't break down at higher temps, so if the oil gets overheated it will survive better.

2. Is more resistant to water.

3. Lasts longer while maintaining viscosity.


supposedly synthetic does not transfer heat as well, which is actually a bad point.

Glow plugs is definitely the way to go with the diesels.

The different formulation of synthetic does help -- you can get a larger difference between the two numbers in a blend when you use synthetic. Bottom line is that to get the same (or better) level of high-temp performance as dino oil, you can use a thinner synthetic, which is easier on the starting, in addition to the other benefits you mentioned...

Another difference is in the "shear" factor -- synthetics are much, much better. This is an issue with hydraulic gear motors, though not significant with hydraulic cylinders.

I changed to Amsoil, and noticed easier starting with my Kohler-powered 425, in addition to increased wheel motor torque when the oil was hot... there's several (at least a few) 422/425 owners on here who've switched to synthetic.

Still didn't give me all the torque I wanted though, and I ended up going to larger displacement wheel motors.

YMMV...

BTW, here's a good list of the benefits of synthetics:

Advantages of Using Synthetics

• Synthetics offer better engine wear protection, helping the engine to last longer
• They offer better fuel economy helping you to save money at the pump
• They help your vehicle to start easier in cold weather due to its low pour point
• The engine runs cooler in higher temperatures by reducing friction
• There is an increase in horsepower
• There are less tailpipe emissions
• It helps to reduce engine deposits, which helps to make the engine perform more efficiently
• Synthetics help to resist oxidation and thermal breakdown which helps to reduce sludge that will cause the valves and rings to stick
• They offer better stability as then engine doesn’t burn as much oil because the oil is more resistant to the heat
• They offer better lubricity because the synthetic oil polymers can slide more easily together. By reducing this friction, you improve horsepower and torque but lesson engine wear.
• They offer better film strength – this is the resistance of oil molecules from separating under pressure. If you think about two metals being pressed together, with oil between them to stop them from grinding, you want that oil to stay there. Conventional mineral oils will push away from each other. As synthetic oils don’t shear as easily, they can maintain a higher film strength, which prevents wear under difficult and extreme operating conditions.

SOURCE: http://www.autotropolis.com/wiki/ind...=Synthetic_oil

[BobRip]

I changed the transmission fluid in my PT422 from the original 5W30 dino to Mobil 1 (synthetic) 15W50. I saw no difference in starting, but I always keep it in a heated garage. I do notice a big difference in hot operation. The wheel motor torque does not drop off much when it gets hot, and the torque seems greater at all temperatures. I am able to climb steeper hills. It made a big difference to me. This is mostly subjective, but I would do it again. Some of the difference of course is going from 5W30 (which PT no longer uses) to 15W50. I believe their standard is now 10W40.

[MossRoad]

I changed the transmission fluid in my PT422 from the original 5W30 dino to Mobil 1 (synthetic) 15W50. I saw no difference in starting, but I always keep it in a heated garage. I do notice a big difference in hot operation. The wheel motor torque does not drop off much when it gets hot, and the torque seems greater at all temperatures. I am able to climb steeper hills. It made a big difference to me. This is mostly subjective, but I would do it again. Some of the difference of course is going from 5W30 (which PT no longer uses) to 15W50. I believe their standard is now 10W40.

A 15W would be harder to start than a 5W by a factor of 3 in cold weather. Since yours is garaged, you probably see no difference. Stored outside, I'm pretty sure you would notice when it got down in the 20s and under. The advantage of the 50 over the 30 on the hot end I would assume would be very noticeable indeed.