hydraulic filter modifications

[washita]

I plan on installing a ''filter minder'' gauge this summer, since the pumps plug is on the bottom and a pain, in addition to making a mess when I change filters. The thought is to remove the filter housing and tap two holes in the housing, one on the outlet side for the gauge, the other one on the inlet side with a plug installed to be used to ''top off the filter'' with oil upon installation of a new filter. the question is, worth the time and effort or is there still a possibility of pump cavitation during initial startup on a new filter.

 

[KentT]

I plan on installing a ''filter minder'' gauge this summer, since the pumps plug is on the bottom and a pain, in addition to making a mess when I change filters. The thought is to remove the filter housing and tap two holes in the housing, one on the outlet side for the gauge, the other one on the inlet side with a plug installed to be used to ''top off the filter'' with oil upon installation of a new filter. the question is, worth the time and effort or is there still a possibility of pump cavitation during initial startup on a new filter.

IMO, it's not worth the pain.

Just change the filter every 50 hours, as recommended. Fill the filter with clean oil before you screw it on. Use the bleed hose provided and procedures that are documented. It's a messy job, but pretty straight-forward.

My 2 cents is that there's better ways to spend the time/money -- such as magnets to trap metal particles, etc.

 

[J_J]

The best advice I could give would be to add a tee between the filter and pump, and fill the filter, and then add oil through the tee until it runneth over, and cap the tee. Since the pump that is getting the oil first is the charge pump, I would disable the start function on the engine, and motor the engine for about 15 sec. That will let the charge pump ensure the pump cavity is full. In a closed loop system, you still have fluid sitting in the pump/wheel motor closed loop circuit.. The charge pump provides makeup fluid that is lost via wheel motors and VSP pump cooling.

 

[MossRoad]

The best advice I could give would be to add a tee between the filter and pump, and fill the filter, and then add oil through the tee until it runneth over, and cap the tee. Since the pump that is getting the oil first is the charge pump, I would disable the start function on the engine, and motor the engine for about 15 sec. That will let the charge pump ensure the pump cavity is full. In a closed loop system, you still have fluid sitting in the pump/wheel motor closed loop circuit.. The charge pump provides makeup fluid that is lost via wheel motors and VSP pump cooling.

The proper procedure is to pull your spark plugs (gas model), install the bleeder hose on the bleeder port on the variable volume pump and put the other end into the hydraulic tank so that the open end of the bleeder hose is below the level of the fluid in the tank. Then fill the new filter with fresh clean oil, lube the gasket and spin it on hand tight. Then crank the engine for 10 seconds and watch the air bubbles come out of the end of the bleeder hose. Wait about a minute for the starter to cool and repeat. Keep doing that until no bubbles come out of the bleeder hose. Its the only way to ensure no air is trapped in the pump and that the filter is void of air as well. I usually have to crank mine about 4-5 times minimum to get all of the air out.

I don't think I'd try it any way else.

 

[ponytug]

I'm with the crowd on this one. You don't want cavitation and you don't want any chance for dirt in the drive circuits. The pump "until the bubles go away" also helps flush the line of any dirt that got into it as we change the filter, and keeps that dirt from moving into the pump drive circuit.

I have a small plastic tray that goes under the filter and helps keep the spilled oil to a minimum. I cut the bottom out of a large square liquid detergent container, and it wedges under the filter between the hoses.

What I haven't solved is getting the filter off well. My 1/2" drive strap oil wrench tends to crush the metal can on the filter as it comes loose.

Any better ideas?

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

I put a few paper towels under the filter, unloosen the filter just a bit, then slip a 1QT ziplock bag under and up around it, then finish removing it. Anything that overflows goes into the bag. Anything that drips goes onto the paper towels. Works pretty good. :thumbsup:

 

[woodlandfarms]

For me my strap wrench will bend the filter can in removal as well. I do not use it for install. If you grab high on the filter can with the strap wrench that seems to help, but I seem to always dent mine coming off. Then again, I am not re-using it so.