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  1. #1
    Elite Member woodlandfarms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    4,263
    Location
    Los Angeles / SW Washington
    Tractor
    PowerTrac 1850

    Default Landscape plane questions

    I have a heavy duty 72" woods box blade. Works good but I reall feel a landplane will be way better for maintaining my roads. So here are mybuestions and happy to take all comments? I am going to build this implement.

    Anyone have one?

    Push or pull? I am so tired of pulling butt think the pt arms are going to be an issue and oushupingbwill never work. But my runners should be quite long 5 ft at least.

    I can pull the box blade unless I am on a slope and the box blade really loads up. I am thinking about an 84 inch wide landplane.
    Power-Trac 1850, grapple, hoe, 90" mower, 72" box blade

  2. #2
    Super Star Member J_J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
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    17,339
    Location
    JACKSONVILLE, FL
    Tractor
    Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST

    Default Re: Landscape plane questions

    Here is one built by a TBN member.

    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/b...completed.html

    Some other pictures.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -landplane-jpg   -landplane-001-jpg   -landplane-x749-001-jpg   -landplane-004-jpg   -landplane-1-jpg  

    -land_plane_5-gif  
    Last edited by J_J; 04-24-2012 at 09:38 AM.
    J.J.

    When I works, I works hard. When I sits and thinks, I goes to sleep.

    Git er done.

  3. #3
    Epic Contributor MossRoad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    24,109
    Location
    South Bend, Indiana (near)
    Tractor
    Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year

    Default Re: Landscape plane questions

    I'd look at some of the commercial ones available and copy their design.

    (I ain't too original or creative, if you haven't noticed over the years ).

    I was always interested in the D.R. brand for smaller tractors. Perhaps a good place to start looking.
    MossRoad

    Click On My Little Tractor
    To See Pictures And Videos
    Of It In Action!!!


  4. #4
    Elite Member
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    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    7,689
    Location
    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: Landscape plane questions

    Do some searching, lots of threads on this, bought and home built. Build it as heavy as your tractor will handle and don't get greedy with the width. You are better off with a heavy 6 foot unit than a lighter 7' unit. You are best off with no less than 150lbs per foot of width. Heavier is better, but your tractor will only handle so much.

    Good luck
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  5. #5
    Elite Member woodlandfarms's Avatar
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    Jul 2006
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    4,263
    Location
    Los Angeles / SW Washington
    Tractor
    PowerTrac 1850

    Default Re: Landscape plane questions

    Thanks everyone. I have my design for the most part (Still struggling on wether to angle the cutting blades or have them run parallel, no one seems to have the straight answer on that).

    But the killer for me is push or pull. Box blade will not work in push mode, I would love it if the landscape would, but I think that if it gets hung on something I am going to push over top of it. Probably better to pull it but this will make for a miserable mile of road I have to grade.

    Carl
    Power-Trac 1850, grapple, hoe, 90" mower, 72" box blade

  6. #6
    Gold Member Clumber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    348
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Tractor
    PT425 (Dec 2010)

    Default Re: Landscape plane questions

    I have a similar situation with a mile long private road of blue crusher mix stone. I have used my PT 425 with a box blade on a short section of the road with good result, but it is slow and pulling the blade works best. The road has deep ruts due to water runoff.

    I am thinking about buying a Power-trac Power Rake attachment for another purpose, but I'm thinking that the power rake might be a faster solution to smoothing out the deep ruts on the road. The rake can be operated in push-mode. However, a final pass with the box blade may still be necessary.

    Anybody here ever use a power rake like this?
    I married me a hippy, ran away with a stringy haired blond,
    Now we're both old and happy, fishing on our own Golden Pond. -- Merle Haggard


    PT 425 (Dec 2010), Blade, Snow Blower, Sweeper, Spreader, LMB, 4n1, Small Bucket/Teeth, Utility Grapple, Brush Cutter, Box Blade, Mini Hoe/Thumb, Forks, Power Dumper

  7. #7
    Elite Member
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    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    7,689
    Location
    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: Landscape plane questions

    Quote Originally Posted by woodlandfarms View Post
    Thanks everyone. I have my design for the most part (Still struggling on wether to angle the cutting blades or have them run parallel, no one seems to have the straight answer on that).

    But the killer for me is push or pull. Box blade will not work in push mode, I would love it if the landscape would, but I think that if it gets hung on something I am going to push over top of it. Probably better to pull it but this will make for a miserable mile of road I have to grade.

    Carl
    As far as I know of, every commercially built unit has angled blades. The home built units are common to have the blades straight. Why do you think that may be? It sure wouldn't be because it is easier to build with the blades straight, now is it?
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  8. #8
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,171
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Tractor
    Power Trac PT1445

    Default Re: Landscape plane questions

    Dear Carl,

    Based on my experience, I think that you want the cutting blades in a multiple chevron design <<>>. This will redistribute and level the material the best. As suggested by MtnViewRanch, keep it heavy enough to dig in. To break up bad ruts or potholes, you may need to scarify a bad section first before using the land plane.
    Finally, a little clay or fine rock dust will go a long way to permanently keeping your roadbed solid, and keep potholes from reforming. Many people make the mistake of filling the potholes only with larger aggregate, which then creates a holding space for water that vehicles dislodge, carrying the binder (rock dust/fines/clay) out of the roadbed, making the pothole worse.

    Have fun.

    All the best,

    Peter

    Quote Originally Posted by woodlandfarms View Post
    Thanks everyone. I have my design for the most part (Still struggling on wether to angle the cutting blades or have them run parallel, no one seems to have the straight answer on that).

    But the killer for me is push or pull. Box blade will not work in push mode, I would love it if the landscape would, but I think that if it gets hung on something I am going to push over top of it. Probably better to pull it but this will make for a miserable mile of road I have to grade.

    Carl

  9. #9
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    4,446
    Location
    SW WA
    Tractor
    Kubota BX2360

    Default Re: Landscape plane questions

    If the commercial ones were built both ways, and both types stocked by dealers, I think most buyers would buy the angled ones, thinking it will build a crown better. But some users of angled ones say there is almost no sideways movement of material.

    Others build straight ones because they intend to use it for leveling and don't want sideways movement of material.

    Bruce

  10. #10
    Elite Member
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    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Location
    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: Landscape plane questions

    Quote Originally Posted by bcp View Post
    If the commercial ones were built both ways, and both types stocked by dealers, I think most buyers would buy the angled ones, thinking it will build a crown better. But some users of angled ones say there is almost no sideways movement of material.

    Others build straight ones because they intend to use it for leveling and don't want sideways movement of material.

    Bruce
    For my uses anyway, I agree with this statement 100%. If I were to build a crown on my roads based solely on the sideways material movement, I doubt that it could even be done, but at best it would take thousands of passes and that is no exaggeration.
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

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