What to look for when testing a used machine

   / What to look for when testing a used machine #31  
/pine said:
Either burns hotter than gasoline...I've seen enough melted pistons to realize it...lots of marine machine shops have an array of them on a shelf under the sign that says "Don't use Starting Fluid"...FWIW...!
Click to expand...

Ima thinking that the issues that arise from using starting fluid, happen because the engine is in bad shape. It should be used to start and you shouldn't try to keep an engine going by spraying it continuously.
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #32  
I believe I would check the valve clearance at whatever temp the manufacturer stated.
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Tried starting this morning with the gas spray in the carb this morning......no luck.
When I tried to put a battery charger on either of the post, it is arcing. It didn't do this yesterday.
Is there a short somewhere? Why would it do this? The charge is not plugged in. As soon as I go to put a cable on the post she either sparks and or arcs.


I was hoping I could get it running to take over to my mechanic for Monday, not so sure now.

JJ I think you are right about the valve adjustment. Not sure how to position the valves to check the gap. I figured I would let my mechanic do that.
Would it be wise to purchase a new motor rather than tie up who knows how much with this one?

I wish I could have afforded to buy a new pt-425, rather than deal with these headaches.
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #34  
Check your manual, but I believe you set the valves with the piston a TDC.

There should be no power draw with the switch off. Put an ammeter in the circuit and track down the component drawing current.
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #35  
Dear Frank,

They are not the same. Ether (starting fluid) ignites far more rapidly than gasoline and can pre-detonate before the cylinder is beyond TDC. This is incredibly hard on the bearings, piston and crankshaft.

I'd stick with gas, but I'd be trying to fix the underlying cause. Given the number of others that have had trouble with bad carburetors on this forum, I would suspect that your carb is either badly out of adjustment, or has an issue.

All the best,

Peter

Frank Sorbello said:
Do you think the gasoline spray is as bad as the starting fluid?

Thanks
Click to expand...
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #36  
Frank Sorbello said:
Do you think the gasoline spray is as bad as the starting fluid?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Starting fluid should be used in just a one or two second spray into the carb, then attempt to start it. Its in an approved container and is relatively safe in there. Gasoline in a hand pump spray bottle sounds dangerous. However, with that said, we're all big boys here, so just be careful. That's all. ;)
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #37  
Frank Sorbello said:
When I tried to put a battery charger on either of the post, it is arcing. It didn't do this yesterday.
Is there a short somewhere? Why would it do this? The charge is not plugged in. As soon as I go to put a cable on the post she either sparks and or arcs.
Click to expand...

You are getting arcing from the battery to the charger with charger unplugged from the wall? I suspect you need a new battery charger. It shouldn't allow current flow backwards through the charging circuit. Either the diode bridge (cheap charger) or transistors (more expensive charger) should only allow current flow to the battery.

Get a cheap voltage tester ($10-20) and a battery specific gravity tester ($3-4. looks like an eye dropper with little floats in it.) to test your battery.

Use the multitester to check your batter charger when it is plugged in.

Put a space heater blowing into the back of your engine compartment for a couple hours. The PT doesn't like cold starts because of all the cold hydraulic fluid is fighting your starter motor. Unfortunately with no clutch, the engine is always under load during starting in cold weather.

Check the fuel filter to see if it has fuel in it (common problem is clear plastic debris collects in the elbow at the bottom of the fuel tank and prevents any fuel from flowing out of the tank). Make sure your fuel filter isn't clogged.

Someone early mentioned the PTO switch. This switch is designed so it prevents starting your engine with the PTO switch on (the starter motor won't even spin). Make sure it is off. Although, since you are getting it to cough with starter fluid, IO am assuming you are actually getting it to spin.

Sounds like a cold start or fuel starvation issue.
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Thanks Tim, It isn't the charger. If I touch the positive post with anything metallic it arcs, even with the key off.
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #39  
Take the battery cables off and clean the terminal posts and the cable clamps then put the cables back on and tighten them down snug and try again.
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Thanks Moss Road, I cleaned them up and tightened down snug. It got rid of the arcing.

Throttle cable won't move. The problem isn't at the engine, governor, linkage and springs all work ok. Must be in the cable or at the the control.

With battery charger on and a spray of gas, she doesn't want to start today.

Found the tow valve. Opened two turns. Wheels are free. Going to try to tow onto my trailer and take to small engine shop.
Just wondering how much more money I should I tie up into the motor or should I just replace engine.
Thanks
Frank
 
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