What to look for when testing a used machine

   / What to look for when testing a used machine #71  
Personally, I think used tractors are a complete crapshoot. You have no idea if it ran out of oil, the guy's handyman ran once without cleaning the radiator and cooked it, or the time they used it as the middle link on a chain of trucks to rip out a monster stump.

"You paysa your money, and you makesa your choice..." Your usage will also impact what the perceived value is; do you need it to be ready 24x7? Can it be down for three weeks?

Sometimes you luck out into sweet deals my neighbor bought a Kubota for 40% of list, with 42 hours on it in two years.

YMMV.

I wouldn't trade my PT for anything. My neighbor down the hill tipped his yellow tractor driving it on a road on one of his slopes. He lived. The tractor has been there two weeks. It's going to take a team of guys to get it turned around and pulled up. You can't get another vehicle close enough to anchor a winch, there are no trees, and I think the nearest 1845 is Carl's in Washington. The slope must be 40 degrees and goes up three hundred feet, so it would take a couple of semi wreckers to pull it from the top.

My point is, if you need a PT, you need one and there is no substitute. If you don't absolutely need one, you have choices, and those choices involve tradeoffs, one of which is price.

All the best,

Peter

Actually, it seems to me that the resale value on PT's is terrible comparable to CUT's, mainly because most people do not know what they are. This is probably much less true on the smaller ones like the 425. Also, the larger ones have typically been used commercially and have seen a hard life which also lowers their value.

Ken
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #72  
I had great luck in my used CUT's that I bought. The most major repair I ever had to do was a water pump and they were all able to be sold for more than what I paid. I could not say those things about my PT. But do not get me wrong, I would not trade my PT for any CUT that I know of. It meets my needs so well that I literally use it more in one year than I did with my CUT's in 10 years. It is well worth its peculiarities. When other people realize that, their resale value will increase. But I am not sure that will ever happen.

Ken
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #73  
Its kinda funny how we cuss and mumble but can't find anything that does the job better for less. :laughing:
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #74  
And how many of you get on your PT and smile internally? :D
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #75  
I smile when my neighbors call me for help. Last week mowed a new neighbors blackberries down on a severe slope (house was abandoned and way overgrown) and his wife started to cry when she realized how good of a house they have and how a simple mow job would make it so much better. Second was the next door neighbors and going over on sever slopes and drilling post holes for their new fenceline.
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine
  • Thread Starter
#76  
Is there a way to valve off the hydraulic load at the pumps for easier starting in colder months?
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #77  
Is there a way to valve off the hydraulic load at the pumps for easier starting in colder months?
That's a very good question.
Let's discuss the 400 series.
There are two PTO pumps.
Main PTO pump.
AUX PTO/steering/FEL pump.

It's my understanding the main PTO pump just pumps right through the soleniod block and back into the tank until you flip the dash switch, then it pumps through the ports on the FEL arms. So, its about as bypassed as you can get already.

The AUX PTO/steering/FEL pump pumps through the steering valve, out the power-beyond port, through the FEL valve body and back into the tank. Those valves are open center, so don't know how my resistance they offer. You could certainly put a diverter valve right after the output of that pump and send the fluid directly back to the tank. That would take most pressure off of that circuit.

Now for the variable volume tram pump. When your foot is off the treadle, the swash plate is neutral and the gas motor is just spinning the plate in the fluid inside the pump. There really is no way to bypass that. I'm sure its thick fluid when its cold. Again, as I understand it, the only time the tram pump draws fluid from the tank is for the makeup section. For the most part, the tram circuit is a closed loop and only needs to replace fluid leaked past the tram pump. As long as you have the treadle in the neutral position there is not load going through the wheel motors. The only way to bypass the tram pump would be to put it on a clutch.

I think the first and best option to reduce load on startup would be running synthetic variable viscosity oil in the engine and hydraulic system.

My second choice would be to put a selector valve in the AUX PTO/steering/fel circuit to bypass the valve and go directly back to the tank.

The first choice would require zero mechanical mods and would cost the price of two quarts of synthetic for the engine and 40 quarts for the hydraulics.
The second choice would cost the price of the valve (about a hundred bucks here: Selector Valves ) plus the price of a hose and a T or Y to tap into the return to the tank.

I switched my engine to 5w30 Mobil1 at my first oil change and at every 50 hour filter change I top off with the same oil in my hydraulic tank. So, I've got about 9 qys of diluted synthetic in there by now.
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #78  
Actually, the charge pump on the VSP pump is always pumping fluid at about 10 % of the volume of the tram pump.

Once the pressure is acquired for the tram pump, it is relieved at about 300 psi, probably into the case and back to tank.

The PTO pump just bypasses through the valve and goes to tank.

The steering and lift fluid is just just forced through the steering box, loader valve and back to tank.

So the primary resistance is the fluid itself, and like MossRoad said, take advantage of the synthetic fluid.

A magnetic heater or an in tank heater would also help with cold starting.

Synthetic oil in the engine and hyd tank would also help.
 
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   / What to look for when testing a used machine
  • Thread Starter
#79  
Do you have to pull the engine to replace the starter on the 422?
 
   / What to look for when testing a used machine #80  
I replaced mine without pulling the engine. I have a model year 2000. It has pumps in front of and behind the engine. Yours may have pumps on only one end.
 
 
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