Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 42
  1. #21
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,157
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Tractor
    Power Trac PT1445

    Default Re: Circulating Pump / Heater

    Non-Robbins engine history:
    FWIW: I replace the starter on my Deutz with a rebuilt after market one. It was night and day. I don't know if the new one is more powerful, or the old one never really worked. Either way, the new gets the engine to fire almost immediately. O'Reilly (Kragen) was one of the few places that had them in stock.

    So, yes, replacing starters can make a (significant!) difference.

    All the best,

    Peter

    P.S. I think that the old one may have failed because of getting water in it over the years due to washing the tractor.

  2. #22
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    2,384
    Location
    East Coast of Lake Huron
    Tractor
    Deere, several

    Default Re: Circulating Pump / Heater

    A high CAA battery with heavy cables and swagged or soldered connectors. Bolt on battery connectors won't make as low resistance connection.
    Electric battery hearing pad under the battery.
    Bolt the battery (-) cable direct to a starter mounting bolt. You will be surprised at the difference.
    A immersion block beater to get the engine warm to the touch.
    Mobile 1 , Amsoil ,Royal Purple or Lubrication Engineers synthetic engine oil. Other synthetic maybe labelled as synthetic but it only ultra refined dead dinosaurs.
    Is the hydraulic system due for a flush and fill? Amsoil makes hydraulic oil that doesn't thicken in the cold like mineral oil.
    As previously stated. Often a much higher output starter is a direct bolt on.

  3. #23
    Epic Contributor MossRoad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    23,465
    Location
    South Bend, Indiana (near)
    Tractor
    Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year

    Default Re: Circulating Pump / Heater

    These are air cooled engines, so the emmersion block heater is out, but the advice about synthetic oil in the engine is a good one. I switched my engine oil to Mobil1 after the first oil change.

    Also, I've been adding a quart of Mobil1 to the hydraulic tank at each 50 hr filter change, so there's about 9 qts of Mobil1 in there by now, too.
    MossRoad

    Click On My Little Tractor
    To See Pictures And Videos
    Of It In Action!!!


  4. #24
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    2,384
    Location
    East Coast of Lake Huron
    Tractor
    Deere, several

    Default Re: Circulating Pump / Heater

    Sorry , I didn't clue into the fact this was a Robin air cooled engine and not a machine manufactured by Robin. Rare to see or hear tell of a Robin engine in this area.
    Is there a pipe plug that enters the crankcase from the bottom or side? There. Are some small immersion oil heaters that will thread in there. And warm the entire engine as the heat rises in the crankcase.
    Dip stick heaters are of little use due to the very small surface area and limited wattage .

  5. #25
    Elite Member BobRip's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    4,242
    Location
    Powhatan Va.
    Tractor
    2000 Power Trac 422

    Default Re: Circulating Pump / Heater

    Quote Originally Posted by MossRoad View Post
    These are air cooled engines, so the emmersion block heater is out, but the advice about synthetic oil in the engine is a good one. I switched my engine oil to Mobil1 after the first oil change.

    Also, I've been adding a quart of Mobil1 to the hydraulic tank at each 50 hr filter change, so there's about 9 qts of Mobil1 in there by now, too.
    What weight oil are you adding? I am using the 15w50.
    Bob Rip
    Tell me and I will hear.
    Show me and I will see.
    Let me do and I will learn.
    Let me fail and I will understand.

  6. #26
    Epic Contributor MossRoad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    23,465
    Location
    South Bend, Indiana (near)
    Tractor
    Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year

    Default Re: Circulating Pump / Heater

    Quote Originally Posted by BobRip View Post
    What weight oil are you adding? I am using the 15w50.
    I think it's the 5w30. Can't remember and don't want to go outside! Been painting living room all day, just finished 1/2 a rib eye and 1/2 a NY strip, baked potato, salad, one beer and a piece of mince pie with a glass of milk. I'm veging out!!!
    MossRoad

    Click On My Little Tractor
    To See Pictures And Videos
    Of It In Action!!!


  7. #27
    Gold Member 3238dpw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    320
    Location
    Central NJ
    Tractor
    Power Trac 425, C-121 Wheel Horse, 2 Exmark 60 inch zero turn mowers

    Default Re: Circulating Pump / Heater

    I agree with many things here. I think the easiest is, if available, stronger starter if he doesn't have it already in his machine and a higher CCA battery. Maybe it isn't the cheapest but I think that is the first step. We love our quirky little machines so much that we make excuses for them. But if these two things work then it will make it work like any other tractor out there where if you want to use it in 30 degrees, pull the choke and turn the key. No heaters, blankts etc. After all isn't that how we want it to work. That has been the difference at least it seams to me, that other tractors crank much more strongly. Even my zero turn mower starts with more authority and they circulate oil in pumps too. I would try to work towards that first, then as a last resort some or all of these other ideas will need to be used All these things being said I have a Kohler so maybe I don't know what I am talking about and now that my battery is a few years old and I don't want to change it (being cheap and lazy) I sometimes need to go through some gyrations to get it started when it is cold. never more than a quick spray of eather or carberator cleaner and the battery charger if I run it down too much.
    Scott

  8. #28
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    185
    Tractor
    Steiner 430

    Default Re: Circulating Pump / Heater

    Hey Scott, Can I put a stronger starter on my PT-422?

    Frank

  9. #29
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,157
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Tractor
    Power Trac PT1445

    Default Re: Circulating Pump / Heater

    Even if you can't put a stronger starter, you can put heavy gauge cables from the battery to the starter solenoid.

    You can try jumper cables to begin with, if you don't want to buy heavier cables. Just make sure that the (+) won't fall off when the engine cranks and catches. :-)

    All the best,

    Peter

  10. #30
    Platinum Member tmarks11's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    647
    Location
    Port Orchard, WA
    Tractor
    2005 Power Trac 422

    Default Re: Circulating Pump / Heater

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Sorbello View Post
    Hey Scott, Can I put a stronger starter on my PT-422?

    Frank
    I thought Robin had changed to an upgraded starter motor in like 2005, but after a little research, I realized that there was a service bulletin covering cold weather starting in 2003, which recommended changing to the "heavy duty" starter motor (P/N 263-70503-00).

    http://www.jackssmallengines.com/pdf.../RA-SB-015.pdf

    Changes made by Robin to make their small engines easier to start:

    There was a previous upgrade to the starter/solenoid in 1999 (P/N 263-70502-A0 replace P/N 263-70501-00):
    http://www.jackssmallengines.com/pdf...-SB-001web.pdf

    Upgraded ignition coil in 2003:
    http://www.jackssmallengines.com/pdf...uals/RS344.pdf

    Check your starter motor, if it is not the newest variant (P/N 263-70503-00) then you might consider it.

    Bad news: expensive. $250-300, depending on where you buy it.

    OEM: http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/...rter20004.html

    And just to muddy the waters a bit more, Electric Motor warehouse has an even "newer" part number, that doesn't appear in any Robin literature I could find:

    http://www.brandnewengines.com/263-70504-h0.aspx

    Of interest, apparently Robin has a run of "bad" motors in 2002 that had a bad coil in it (which generated the first two service bulletins that I linked).

    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...tart-when.html

    In this thread, Gravy said he didn't feel the upgraded motor made much difference:

    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...-engine-2.html
    Last edited by tmarks11; 02-24-2013 at 08:38 PM.
    -----------------------------------------------------
    Now in Port Orchard, WA
    2005 PT-422
    4n1 bucket, minihoe, auger, 48" mower, land pride aerator, tow adaptor, forklift, crane, Herd GT77 spreader, LMB, 60" blade, M1 abrams turret.
    PT422 (6/23/05) photo page

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. TC30 Block Heater stupid questions and Transmission Heater advice
    By ksshooter in forum New Holland Owning/Operating
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 10-28-2011, 04:01 PM
  2. Replies: 17
    Last Post: 09-24-2009, 09:56 PM
  3. GC2300/GC2310: block heater or recirculating antifreeze heater?
    By FredWalter in forum Massey Ferguson Owning/Operating
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-28-2008, 03:13 PM
  4. Engine block heater / coolant heater & high-capacity alternator
    By Phunge in forum John Deere Owning/Operating
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-30-2007, 11:49 AM
  5. repalced water pump- heater not working now?
    By goaliedad in forum Related Topics
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 10-15-2007, 08:31 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2014 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.