PT-425 Engine Removal Procedure [Long]

   / PT-425 Engine Removal Procedure [Long] #1  

SnowRidge

Elite Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2003
Messages
3,091
Location
East Tennessee
Tractor
Power Trac PT-425 / Branson 3520
I searched for a post like this when I had to pull the Kohler out
of my PT-425. I didn't find one, so I thought I would
contribute this version. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

General:

My PT-425 was built in June 2003 and is equipped with a Kohler
CH25 and the Power Trac welded up muffler. Yours may be
slightly or significantly different, so please take that into
consideration.

The engine comes out with the engine/front pump mount and
rear pump mount attached, so the total weight is in excess of 100 lbs.
This requires the use of some sort of hoist. While a strong individual
might be able to lift the assembly alone, and two could certainly
lift it together, it would be awkward and probably dangerous. A
proper hoist provides safety and control.

According to Terry at Power Trac, no hydraulic hoses need to be
disconnected. However, I did have to disconnect one hose and
loosen another.

You will need a set of SAE open end wrenches running from 3/8" to 1-
1/16". For some of the more common sizes, such as 9/16", two
open ends will be required, since not all fasteners provide
sufficient space to use a ratchet or box wrench on the other
side.

You will also need a 3/8" allen wrench.

As always, safety first, gasoline burns, and don't drink your
battery. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Preparing for the job:

First, decide exactly where you are going to pull the engine. Once
the engine is lifted out of the Power Trac, the hoist will have to
be rolled back so that the engine can be placed on whatever will
receive it. A rolling engine hoist designed for automotive work
would be ideal.

Since I don't own a hoist of that type, I had to come up with
something else. I removed the bucket from my Branson 3520 and
suspended an industrial come-along from the FEL's quick release
bracket. That worked fine.

If you decide to suspend the hoist from a fixed point and move the
Power Trac out from beneath the engine, remember you will have to
lift the motor high enough to clear either the raised engine
cover or the ROPS canopy. No matter how you plan to lift the
engine, make sure you have sufficient clearance in whatever
location you choose.

You will need some sort of sling between the hoist's hook and the
engine's lifting eyes. I happened to have one made up with
stainless cable that was the perfect size, so I used that.

Because the engine comes out with the mount, it will not be well
balanced. Therefore the sling needs to have fixed lengths for each
leg in order to keep it relatively level. Just using a piece of line that
could slide across the hook might cause problems.

Next, decide if you are going to drain the fuel tank, and
make appropriate preparations if you are. It drains very slowly.
I initially thought I could just disconnect the fuel hose and let
the gas run into a can. It was so slow that I gave up and removed
the tank when it was half full. It is not something I
particularly recommend.

Finally, check the hydraulic hoses to see if any of them run through the
engine mount. If any of them do, they will have to be disconnected at
one end. You might want to obtain covers for the fittings to keep any
crud out.

Procedure:

1. To make it easier to move the machine around, raise the lift
arms as high as possible and tie them off to the ROPS using a
tie-down strap or the equivalent.

2. Disconnect the battery cables, negative lead first.

3. Open the front pump's bypass valve, if not already open.
The valve control is on the bottom of the front pump. Mine has a
smooth shaft with a small hole in it. In order to move it, I had
to insert a small screwdriver through the hole to act as a lever.

You should now be able to push the machine back and forth.

4. Using 1" and 1-1/16" wrenches, remove the front bolts from the
steering rams. Pull the rams away from the front half of the PT and
let them hang from the rear mounts. At this point you should
have a machine that can be rolled and steered with some
effort. It may help to increase the tire pressure a little to
reduce the rolling resistance.

Position the machine in the desired location.

5. If you are going to drain the fuel tank and haven't already done so,
do so now.

6. Unbolt and remove the muffler. The muffler is surprisingly
heavy. Unbolt and remove the muffler support braces from the rear
pump mount.

7. Remove the battery and battery bracket.

8. Disconnect and plug the fuel line. Unbolt the fuel tank from
the fuel tank mounting bracket and remove the tank.

9. Unbolt and remove the fuel tank bracket.

10. Locate the wiring harness plug on the left side of the engine
and disconnect it. It will be very tight, but gripping both halves
tightly and wiggling will loosen it. Remove the positive battery
cable from the starter motor.

11. Disconnect the control cables from the engine. Cover the
exposed ends of the cables to protect yourself from getting poked
in the eye by the wire ends in the following steps.

12. Unbolt the hydroback from the front pump and the mounting
bracket. The hydroback is the round cylinder that connects to the
control pedals.

13. Unbolt the engine mount from the bottom of the chassis. Leave
the engine bolted to the mount.

14. Slide the engine back as far as possible. The rear pump should
be touching the chassis. If not, you may have to go to the
next step before sliding the engine back.

15. This is the most difficult part. Unbolt the front pump.
While holding the engine all the way rearward, pull the front
pump forward. There is a Lovejoy coupler between the engine
and the pump. It consists of two notched pieces (jaws)
separated by an elastomer spider. The two coupler jaws stay on
their respective shafts. Do not attempt to remove the jaw from the
pump.

The spider may be stuck to the pump's coupler jaw. If it is, gently
pry it loose and let it stay with the engine. There is not enough
clearance for the spider to clear the pump mount.

Continuing pulling on the pump while holding the engine rearward
until the pump's coupler jaw clears the mounting hole. It would
help to have an extra pair of hands, but it can by done by one
person. "Language" skills can be appropriate here, too. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

If the pump cannot be pulled forward far enough to clear the mount,
there may be an angled hydraulic hose hitting the forward wall.
That happened to me, and I had to loosen the fitting on the
pump so that I could rotate the hose rearward to provide
sufficient clearance.

If everything is right, the pump coupler jaw will just clear the
mount.

16. While holding the coupler end of the front pump up, slide the
engine as far forward as possible. The pump mount must go
underneath the coupler to obtain sufficient clearant to remove
the rear pump. This is the second most difficult part.

17. Unbolt the rear pump from the rear pump mount. There are two
bolts on the pump. The rear pump mount, which will only have its
two top bolts remaining, stays on the engine. Slide the rear pump
back until its coupler jaw clears the mount. If there is
insufficient clearance, you will have to go back to the previous
step and move the engine further forward.

18. While holding the rear pump down, slide the engine back so
the the rear pump mount is over the rear pump and the front pump
and coupler clear the front pump mount.

19. If any hydraulic hoses run through the engine mount,
disconnect them. Protect open hoses and pump ports from
contamination.

20. Connect the hoist and lift the engine out slowly while looking for
anything that might cause problems. The hydroback may need to be
held aside. The engine will not come out perfectly level because of
the weight imbalance caused by the mounts, but it won't be a
problem if a good sling is being used.

21. Success! Enjoy your favorite libation. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Installation should be the reverse of removal. I say should be because I
haven't got to that part yet. Since I had to remove a hydraulic hose, I
will have to bleed the system. I suspect that should be done even if a
fitting is only loosened, just to be on the safe side.

I hope this helps if you have to pull your engine. Better yet, I hope you
never need this.

SnowRidge
 
   / PT-425 Engine Removal Procedure [Long] #2  
Great rundown and detail, thanks for all the work putting this together. I hope never to have to pull my engine but this will help if necessary.
PJ
 
   / PT-425 Engine Removal Procedure [Long] #3  
Good post. Can this be put some place where it can be easily found without searching? Like on MR's site?
 
   / PT-425 Engine Removal Procedure [Long]
  • Thread Starter
#4  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Good post. Can this be put some place where it can be easily found without searching? Like on MR's site? )</font>

Thanks, I have no problem with MR posting it, if he wants to.

SnowRidge
 
   / PT-425 Engine Removal Procedure [Long] #5  
It's searchable here on TBN right now /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / PT-425 Engine Removal Procedure [Long] #6  
i have a way that is very simple, #1 take the muffler off #2 take the batter cables off #3 take the 4 bolts out that hold the motor to the mounting plate #4 take the 4 bolts out that hold the pump adaptor to the engine and 2 bolts that hold the pump to the adaptor #5 pull the pump to the rear and to the left ,take out the adaptor. #6 slide the motor to the side and take the fuel line off and hang it out of the way, slide the engine to the other side a take the wiring off and mark all wires. #7 lift the engine out with a hoist........total time less than 2 hrs. the first time after that maybe an hour.when you put it back together make sure you line the engine up with the front pump. this is simple, before bolt the engine down tight start it, it will line it's self up.shut it down and tighten the bolts up. now install the back pump,and muffler.i insall the muffler temp. to run the engine to line it up.........
 
   / PT-425 Engine Removal Procedure [Long]
  • Thread Starter
#7  
That's for a different series of PT-425. It would be better off in its own thread. As it is, it will just add confusion to someone reading this thread who doesn't know about the different versions, such as a newcomer who has acquired a Kohler powered machine that needs engine work.
 
   / PT-425 Engine Removal Procedure [Long] #8  
I believe it's the same,pumps on both ends, i did take the gas tank loose and set it ahead of engine,up on the hyd tank to reach the engine bolts on the left front. and i also did take the battery out to reach the engine mount bolts on the right side. the reason for the battery removal was i put a larger one in and it takes up a lot of room ......on the ground 1.4 mine is a 2002 ,422 robin same as the 425 .........jim
 
 
Top