cqaigy2
Super Member
On my 422, choke all the way down, chokes the engine too much.
New PT425 and Trip
- Thread starter bol4fun
- Start date
MuncyBob
Platinum Member
Throttle 1/2 or maybe closer to 3/4 way, full choke but as soon as it catches choke goes to 1/4 pronto or it will sputter and smoke.
jfh28
Platinum Member
I use throttle at about a 1/3 and full choke........then as farmall140 said as soon as it catches I bring the choke up......depends on the season as to where I raise the choke....mostly I listen to the engine as I'm raising it and once it's smooth I'll leave it there for a minute or two before raising it up all the way and going on my way.......Jack
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 60,211
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
I go zero throttle plus full choke. Start cranking and increase the throttle till it catches, then leave throttle there and quickly reduce choke a bit till it smooths out. But that's my 16 year old Kohler.
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 60,211
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
As for tying it down to a trailer with straps.... when we first got out PT425 I used straps. After maybe the 1st or 2nd haul, the straps were chafing and cutting.... so I went with chains and never regretted it. Unless you have mounting points on both the PT and the trailer where the straps will never touch anything, you will eventually start wearing your straps, or even cut them. I use the rear hitch to put my rear chains to corners of the trailer, and I mounted a tow hook on the front shelf of the PT425, right in the middle, between the lower mounting points of the FEL lift cylinders. I run from a corner of the trailer, over the implement (like the bucket or mower, cutter, etc...), through the tow hook, back over the implement and to the other corner.
Then I take the parking brake off, put a load binder on the rear chain, and crank it barely snug until both chains are barely snug, not tight. Then I get on the machine, fire up the engine, engage the parking brake, and mash the foot pedal to spin the tires until the brake pins engage both wheels. Then I tighten up the binder really tight. The tractor will squat on all four tires. If I shake the tractor, the entire trailer shakes. It's one solid unit at that point. Not going anywhere. :thumbsup:
Then I take the parking brake off, put a load binder on the rear chain, and crank it barely snug until both chains are barely snug, not tight. Then I get on the machine, fire up the engine, engage the parking brake, and mash the foot pedal to spin the tires until the brake pins engage both wheels. Then I tighten up the binder really tight. The tractor will squat on all four tires. If I shake the tractor, the entire trailer shakes. It's one solid unit at that point. Not going anywhere. :thumbsup:
I was using the dirt bucket with teeth today and it kept stalling out ....turning completly off..... and I would have a hard time restarting each time it stalled. I think what I was doing maybe, was pushing down on the forward treddle too much in an attempt to push through the packed down gravel surrounding a gravel pile i have behind a building for filling holes in the parking lot. The same thing happened when i pushed against a 3 to 4 inch sapling. Is the stalling typical?
jfh28
Platinum Member
oh yeah....big time.......they just don't have enough weight or low torque when they meet an obstacle going forward.......I don't grade pushing but do it back dragging going backwards.......my neighbors always know when I've let a wet snow get too deep before plowing.......and thats saying something since my neighbors are not close....lol......guess my voice travels every time it stalls out........you'll get use to feeling when it's about to stall and learn to back off some.......use a shallower angle on the bucket or don't try to take as big a bite.....also run the throttle full and press less on the treadle instead of more.......MR said something that stuck with me....the throttle is for speed the treadle is for gear......or something like that........same thing going up steep hills.....back off on the treadle and it will crawl up.....stamp down fully and it will stall out........restarting has not been a problem.....no choke and put the throttle back to 1/2 or 1/3......also turn the key off first before turning it back on to start......I usually wait to hear the fan turn off before restarting....it's a couple of seconds......I don't know why it just seems like the right thing to do......Jack
BobRip
Elite Member
Keep your throttle wide open. This gives you the most power. The further you push the pedal down the higher the gear you are in. Therefore less torque. There is a midpoint that is best. Also it helps if you work with gravity. You do your work down hill. Gravity is added to your force not subtracted from it.
coolconnection
Gold Member
The throttle movement is based on how they have it connected to the motor. You can adjust it if you feel that it is affecting low throttle. Mine was like that but it has been adjusted a few time since then.