Sawbuck Feedback

[Impulse]

My log bucking rating is about 1/2 a notch above novice. I kick logs around, maybe teeter them on something, aim for 16" and try to keep the chain out of the dirt. I recently took down 11 trees, some maybe 75+ feet tall. Needless to say, I have a lot of cutting to do. I've got a Fiskar X27 and a mean swing so I think I'm set on the splitting, but cutting these logs down to size is hard on the ol' spinal fusion.

I think it is time I construct a sawbuck. I have been tinkering around with some designs, but I haven't really liked any of them. It seems that the designs I have seen on Google either require moving logs around or still allow the log to bind on the chain or pieces drop all over.

I was hoping I could throw my design up here, explain my thinking and you guys could tell me why my design sucks so I can get to something better.



My thoughts on this are that I can use Pedro to throw a log up and I can then cut @ 16" with both ends of the cut pieces and remaining log always supported. The pieces shouldn't fall to the ground so I won't have to bend over so much. The span is supported by 2x6 lumber with 2x4s perpendicular to raise the log up so I don't cut into the frame. I considered a 3rd 2x6 in the middle, but figured it would get in the way and I'm thinking that 2 would be enough. I've got small 2x4s on end to keep anything from rolling off. I thought about notching the 2x4s to allow a log to park itself, but I don't know if that is necessary either. For the height, I really just took a guess. I'm 6'3" and the higher up while still being able to safely cut it, the better.

I would appreciate any thoughts and criticism or if you wanted to post better ideas.

Thanks

 

[MossRoad]

If its made out of wood, my guess is sooner or later, Pedro will crush it.

I heat with wood. So here's what I do if I need to buck wood elevated...

What's worked well for me is item #T3151, 30" pallet forks for $400. Lift the log up to your preferred height and start lopping off 16" pieces. Reposition the tractor when you get to the forks. Then use the forks or the light material bucket item #T3062 $450, scoop them up and dump them in a pile by your splittter.

http://power-trac.com/index_htm_files/tractorgasT8price091012.pdf

 

[cqaigy2]

That's a struggle i can appreciate. First off, i don't have any solution for you. I take my tractor into the woods and process pretty close to where the tree is cut down, so i look at more portable methods and most trees are firs, so mostly not a lot of limbs to process. One thing i've done is i pick the log up at one end by looping a chain over the bucket, with slip around tree. Pick it up and cut from one end toward the bucket. I do have to bend over and put the rounds into trailer or bucket to hall back to wood shed where i finish up with the Fiskar.

 

[ernemats]

What I sometimes do is use the mini hoe with thumb on to pick up the logs and cut them while holding it off the ground and also use the mini hoe to pick up larger logs and put them on the log splitter . Works good for me, often my grandson helps operating the power trac

 

[Creamer]

I have to agree with MossRoad since you already have the PowerTrac. Letting the tractor do the lifting and repositioning etc saves a lot. I use a buck but it is only for smaller stuff so that I can cut many at one time and the pieces are all in one place. I also do this in the woods so my buck is very light and easy to handle so I place it near where the wood is and bring the 8-10' pieces to it and then cut away. Bucks for logs were nice before hydraulics but since then I am not sure of the usefulness.

 

[MuncyBob]

Man, I wish I had one of those grandson thingys.

 

[newbury]

Not a power trac owner but what I've done is similar to Moss-roads method. Put on a pair of $150 clamp on pallet forks. Try and first cut the logs as long as you can lift with the FEL. Lift the log up start off cutting 16" chunks off the ends. Usually got two cuts before I had to walk to the other end. Keep cutting it down.

You should have pallet forks anyways.

 

[Impulse]

I didn't even think about the mini-hoe. I have that and the thumb sitting in my garage. I've only used it once and broke a tooth off right off the bat. I'll give that a try, then move over to the forks next.

 

[MossRoad]

Yeah a mini-hoe with a thumb would be great because you'd have to do less of the balancing act-type motions and less repositioning as opposed to the forks.

Personally, I harvest about 50ish trees per year. All telephone pole sized locust, 40-60 feet long. I fell them, limb them, then drag them out with the logging tongs. Then I stack them up like a pile of telephone poles. When its cutting day, I just start lopping of 16" pieces from the left side of the pile going through all of them vertically. Then I step 16" to the right and repeat. Goes pretty quick.

 

[SpringHollow]

I use my swinging mini hoe for logs. But I do have a simple sawbuck for doing large amounts of small stuff. It is simply scrap wood screwed together to form X's (larger on the bottom than the top for stability). Make enough for the spacing desired. Then I screw boards across the bottom legs (one high and one low on the back, one high on the front so you can stand close) to keep them at that spacing and stable. I then load with a bunch of small stuff to cut all at once. It works pretty well. If it is not sturdy enough for what you do, you could put some braces between every other X but I have not found this necessary.

I built it out of wood just to be safe and not have to worry about hitting metal with the saw.

Ken