Steering Failure!! HELP!

[Yardscaper]

I have a steering failure on my PT2445. The machine was grading some soil moving forward when I went to turn to the left and the 2 frame halves made contact. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif I no longer have any response from the steering wheel. The loader and all other hydraulic functions are working normally. It seems to be bypassing the entire steering system and gives no pressure anywhere. The failure was sudden and came without warning. I am wondering if there are any pressure relief valves that may have blown. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif There is no external leakage of any fluid, so, I have narrowed it down to either the steering valve or a broken steering cylinder. Any one have any ideas? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I really need this machine up and running. I am calling Terry tomorrow morning, but I need the machine up and running immediately. I just hope I do not have to wait on parts for a week!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[blackwell]

If the frame halves touched, sounds like the nut holding the piston on the rod has worked loose and allowing the steering fluid to bypass. PT uses a neat steering stop by allowing the extending cylinder to fully extend to stop steering articulation. Remove the cylinder that is fully extended and disassmble, check the nut on the bottom of the piston, may be loose. I would recomend inspecting the seals and if they show wear, order two C026 cylinder seal kits and repack both cylinders. Use 271 (red) locktite when reinstalling the nut on bottom of piston.

EB

 

[Yardscaper]

Thanks Blackwell!!

I will get on this first thing tomorrow morning. How complicated will this endeavor be?? I have never actually taken a cylinder apart, is there anything I should keep in mind or tools that I should have? I am working on the machine in a somewhat remote area, as it broke out in the middle of 8 acres that we are working in order to build a barn.

Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[MossRoad]

Keep everything super clean when working with hydraulics. Do no disassemble the cylinder in the field and plug any hoses that you disconnect immediately to keep dirt from entering the system. Also, plug them to prevent fluid loss.

I know nothing about rebuilding cylinders, but have been warned about dirt contamination and took it to heart. Good luck today. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Yardscaper]

Thanks Moss!

I am heading out to take the cylinder off now. I spoke with Terry and he is sending me 2 seal kits that should be here either Wednesday or Thursday. I just hope that I can get the machine moving today by tightening the nut like blackwell pointed out. I will be sure to take extra care to keep contaminants out of the system. I will let you know how it goes! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

I think Blackwell's probably right, but my 1845 stopped steering due to a different problem. One of the hoses to the right cylinder separated at the fitting in the console. Symptoms were as described, but each time the wheel was turned right, the oil level in the footwell rose. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif New hose $30 at local hydraulic shop.

 

[Rip]

Guess that's what those fancy elevated floor plates are for.... keep your feet dry as the oil level rises. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Sedgewood]

<font color="red">One of the hoses to the right cylinder separated at the fitting in the console. </font>

Do I detect a pattern here Charlie? Both my hose failures this year were at the fitting in the console for the right cylinder. Aren't our machines likely from the same production run since I bought mine so soon after you bought yours? Hard to see that as relevant as the left and right cylinders and hoses are the same but still a new hire on the crimper might have messed up a batch.

Go figger /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Sedgewood

 

[J_J]

You should take both cylinders to a hyd shop to test before you try and break down what might be good cylinders. The steering wheel is attached to a steering valve. It could have failed. There is also a pressure relief valve that could have stuck open, or blew the seal. It usually activates when you go to the extreme limits of the cylinders.

If you have to rebuild a cylinder or both, pay attention to the way the o-rings or wiper seals are installed. There is a bevel on the wiper seal on one side . Be careful with metal objects to remove the o-rings. A dental pick works good A toothpick works well or a brass awl. Wet the o-rings, they go on better.

I have rebuilt all three of the front cylinders on my 1445, and they seem to be working fine.

Good luck, and I hope you are back in operation again soon.

 

[Yardscaper]

Thanks for the info. J J, but I took the cylinder that was fully extended and was able to pull the rod right out of the housing. The nut came off just as blackwell said earlier. I called Terry and asked him how it would be best to retrieve the piston and nut from the housing, as the pistone was all the way into the housing. He told me to use some steel and form a hook to pull it free. I did just that, but it took a fair amount of force to get it out. Once out, the threads were a little torn up towards the end. Seems the nut slowly worked its way loose over the course of 450 hours and stripped free before it could get its' last revolutions in. I cleaned up the threads and checked the seals. All of the seals looked good, but just to be on the safe side, I ordered 2 seal kits, one for each side, form PT. Terry said that he highly recommended replacement. I have the tractor reassembled and it is working fine. I am just glad that this was an easy fix since the location of the machine is somewhat remote.

Thanks everyone for your replies!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif