Bent Forks

[pajoube]

Thats a fine looking set up. I wish I had the heft of your machine.
PJ

 

[J_J]

My Pt-1445 is an older one with only 1200 lbs lift. I probably could increase that with new larger hyd cyl. The set up that I put togather probably weighs about 175 lbs. I don't think I will ever bend them. Don't even try and buy new forks, about $300. Used ones for about $35 or $40 bucks. It will even take one of those carpet poles. or hay forks. One can make lots of equipment to hang on those fork rails. I made an engine puller out of one of the forks, and each of the forks have a one inch hole for a 2 in ball to move trailers. I was even thinking of putting a mini-hoe on the end of one of the forks. Seems like it would work. The little square receiver in the middle is for heavy weight towing . You could probably dig taters /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif with forks tilted down.

 

[Gravy]

JJ,

I'll second you on getting a set of used forks. I got a set of 32" forks, and a good bunch of other steel for a lot less than the PT forks.

Given the lower lift capacity of the 425, I built a carriage out of 3" angle that probably weighs half of the standard ones my local used dealer had in stock. It's still overkill and overweight for Kermit, but those forks ain't gonna bend... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Gravy

 

[MossRoad]

<font color="blue"> Did it take allot of heat in a large area before you could bend it? Looks like sore arm coming up. </font>

Well, Paul. You've seen me in person. I'm not an imposing figure by any means. So, my advice to you is this:

First, it helps if you get angry at the forks /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

But seriously, it wasn't like I was the village black smith or anything. It only takes a few whacks here and there to get it looking straight again. I put the heat on the area that I viewed from the side as the deformed area. It was about a foot long curve. So I did about an inch wide area at a time. Heat across the fork with the little torch for a few minutes, then give it a few really hard whacks and put the heat right back on it to keep it warm while I inspected it. Heat a little further down the fork, whack it a couple hits and heat some more. Surprisingly, it only takes a few wacks in key areas to get it corrected. The key was to keep the heat on it once it is heated up. The large area of the forks is a great heat sink, so it will cool rapidly and you will have to heat it up all over again. I doubt I used more than 1/4 of the little propane bottle and you can get those at the hardware store for just a couple of dollars. Very economical fix. And if you don't have one of the little torches yet, it is a good excuse to buy a very handy tool for under $20.00. And I wasn't sore afterwards at all. Just make sure your sledge hammer has a good handle, make sure you have a safe area to rest the torch while you hammer and wear ear plugs. Safety glasses, too, just in case something chips.

 

[pajoube]

Thanks David,
While waiting for the weather to change (another 5 inches of snow today) I took the bolted top off the oil tank. Cleaned surface and put gasket gunk around the surface with washers for spacers on each bolt. Hope to have good seal and keep the oil from getting out and getting everything dirty.
I did get a propane bottle and will start that project this week on the forks. Also starting to design the manlift and will buy the metal soon. Welding coming along very well now that I have my helmet figured out and the correct standing position to see.
Thanks for all the advice.
PJ

 

[MossRoad]

So you've taken up welding? I must have missed that. I took a few classes about 20 years ago for gas, stick and mig welding. I'm partial to the torch, myself. Something about pushing a puddle of metal with a flame that fascinates me. My regulators are dead and need to be repaired or replaced. But I have a little Sears AC/DC box that runs off of a 50AMP 220 breaker. It's about 25 years old and still does a good job for repairs and stuff around the home. I had some 50 foot leads for it, but they have disappeared into my garages somewhere. My problem is that I weld so infrequently(once every few years when something breaks), that my rods go bad. So I buy as few as possible.

 

[pajoube]

Yes, I ended up buying a new mig unit that was on sale. Then using ebay I purchased all the equipment needed to get set up. I started practicing on scrap metal a few weeks ago and found that I do pretty well. Seeing where I was going became a real problem until I started changing my stance and adjusted the auto helmet. Allot to learn yet but feel comfortable doing the non-critical welding projects (gate, rack, man lift), which should give me more experience for the critical projects (beefing up 425 trailer).
Then my wife started her list of welding projects for me. I still have not decided if we will go with a plasma cutter (her interest) as I have a friend who has one and for the few projects that a cutter is needed he volunteered.
PJ

 

[MossRoad]

Is your MIG unit capable of using a gas cylinder or just the flux cored wire? They only had the gas cylinder units when I was learning. It sure was a pretty weld with no slag.

 

[pajoube]

Made by miller it's a 175 and can go either with gas or flux core wire.
PJ

 

[ontheweb]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Made by miller it's a 175 and can go either with gas or flux core wire.
PJ )</font>

I had a MM175 for a while and learned to weld with it in a few hours of heavy practice. Its funny, people like to brag about using the gas for 'spatter-free' welds, but I could weld pretty good with just the flux wire. The gas setup does not work well outdoors, either, because of the wind. The MM175 is a very fine machine, indeed.

OnTheWeb