Variations on a Aux PTO Mod

[KentT]

Having played a bit with my new grapple bucket and mini-hoe, which require use of the Auxiliary PTO, I decided that the lever needed relocating for ease of use. Combining ideas from NJBill (link below) and others, I decided to move the control lever to the left side of the steering wheel, so that I could simultaneously use both the grapple teeth (or bucket curl) with the left hand at the same time I was using the lift/tilt control with the right hand.

Very effective mod topic

The attached picture shows the end result, from the front, prior to painting the new linkage control arm. I spent a few minutes this afternoon with the grapple bucket, and decided it worked well enough to bring it back to the garage and paint it...

[KentT]

The basic relocation was performed using a turnbuckle like Bill's linked mod above, except I chose to locate the control handle differently. Rather than use the existing control lever, moved to the top of the dashboard, I made a new one.

I used a bronze bushing that fit the 1/4" pin on the hydraulic control, and fit snugly in the turnbuckle. I think the OD was 3/8" but I'm not sure.

I used a "found" 5/16" linkage rod (from an unknown donor garden tractor) that is a bit stiffer than the cold-rolled steel rods at the hardware store. It had a flange and 3/8" threads already on one end. I bent a 90-degree (well, it's pretty close [img]/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] ) bend in it using heat, my vise, and a "pipe-cheater."

See attached picture of right side.

Because the turnbuckle will move slightly forward and back as it pushes up and down, I elongated the 1/2" hole that I drilled in the top of the dash that the turnbuckle passes through. Drilling these holes in the thick steel was actually the hardest part of the mod.

Note also that I had to loosen the control valve body and wiggle it back a little in order to remove the cotter pin that holds the bottom of the "U" pin for the existing linkage. That was the second most challenging part of this whole thing... I ended up disconnecting the linkage for the lift/tilt joystick, in order to do so. I'm not sure that's absolutely necessary, but I did it, then finally removed this troublesome cotter pin from the front side, through the hole for the hydraulic hoses...

[BobRip]

Looks real good. Could you post more pictures, and a materials list, hole dimensions, cost, stress analysis, etc., or how about just some more pictures.

Bob Rip

[KentT]

I used a small rubber "O-ring" washer, in addition to the flat washer, on the threaded end of the control rod, in addition to locking nut. There must be some "wiggle" built into this connection, or the linkage will bind and not press/lift the hydraulic control correctly....

See attached picture for top view of the right side, including the top connection to the turnbuckle.

[KentT]

I measured carefully where to drill the holes in the dashboard (1.5" from the front, and 2" up from the dash) and drilled 3/8" holes on each side of the dashboard. This allows the linkage rod to pass in front of the steering controls, hoses, wires, etc, in the dash.

I simply ran the rod through these holes -- having added setscrew collars to hold the rod in place -- then used my "pipe-cheater" to bend it up on the left side. I'd already threaded the end for the knob...

See attached picture of the left side, including the knob.

With this change in geometry, you have about 2" travel from center (forward or backwards) at the end of the knob on the new control lever. This makes the control more precise...

I decided on this length, so that I wouldn't accidentally hit the control while steering (accidentally unlocking an attachment from the quick attach, for example), yet still be within fingertip reach from the steering wheel.

[KentT]

OK...

For the materials list:

1. The "found" 5/16" linkage rod... length unknown. I think a piece of 3/8" cold-rolled steel from the hardware store would likely work just as well... You'd just need to thread one end, make the short (right) bend, test fit it, then cut to length and thread the other end before you make the final bend on the left side...

2. A 1/4" turnbuckle, approximately 6" long.

3. A brass bushing -- 1/4" inside diameter, that'll fit in the end of the turnbuckle... cut to length, so it'll go down into the slot on the hydraulic control. I used the original pin from the hydraulic control.

4. Two 3/8" inside diameter collars, with setscrews. I put one of these on each side of the wall of dash panel (right side), on top of a 3/8" flat washer. These keep the linkage rod from moving side-to-side.

5. A knob for the handle. Again, this one was "found" parts, but you could use any one that fit's the linkage rod, once you've threaded the end...

6. Three new cotter pins to replace the ones in the pins where all the linkage connects to the hydraulic control body -- I had to remove both the Aux PTO control pin and the two on the joystick, in order to wiggle the control body back and down far enough to remove the cotter pin on the back (up against the "firewall") of the "U" pin that holds the front of the existing Aux PTO control.

I realize that this wasn't a step-by-step, but like most of my "shade-tree engineering", there was a lot of trial and re-grouping going on...

[BobRip]

Thanks, I think that will do.

Bob Rip

[Highridge]

Nice! I've gotten use to using the Aux. pto lever, but someday I would like to do something like that. Hopefully TBN will always be around!
How do you like the new toys, er....., attachments? [img]/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

[KentT]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How do you like the new toys, er....., attachments? [img]/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] )</font>

I haven't spent much time with mini-hoe yet, but I really like the grapple bucket. If the weather cooperates, I plan to dig a drainage ditch with the mini-hoe next weekend...

[pajoube]

Very nice job, this could have been a factory install it's so good.
PJ