Beware of unscrupulous repair shops

   / Beware of unscrupulous repair shops #1  

dturnmire

Bronze Member
Joined
May 28, 2004
Messages
50
Location
N. Georgia
Tractor
Pt-180
I took auto mechanics in high school back in 1968. When I first started driving, cars were much simpler to work on and many of the simpler things such as checking points, adjusting breaks, changing sparkplugs, even being able to gain access to the oil filter made maintaining cars not that big of a problem.

Down through the years things started changing, and auto mechanics changed to "auto technicians" that worked on cars with computers requiring special disgnostic machines along with fuel injection etc. In short, I gave up on even trying to work on my automobile and simply left it up to the experts.

I found a repair shop that had a reputation for being honest and used that one place for years because of so much fraud in the business. I had a new 1988 Subaru Justy and after only a couple of months the "check engine" light came on. My trusting wife drove it down to the dealership to have it checked out and was told that the computer had gone out and that one part was not under warranty so she would have to shelve out $800. She gave me a phone call and I told her to drive off and take it to the trusted mechanic we had been using for years and he told her that if the computer had gone out, it wouldn't even run. He told her to put a piece of tape over the check engine light if it bothered her.

In my carelessness, I didn't have one of the hoses attached securely to the brush cutter of my PT-180 and messed up one of the seals. I took the motor off myself and took it to a local hydraulics shop (before I realized it is under a TWO year warranty) and told the man I needed a seal replaced. I get a phone call back telling me the motor was worn out and the repair could cost $350 though not set in stone. I told him I didn't want to pay for the price of a new motor. He told me he would look at it and see if he could bring the price down. While waiting for him to call me back, I contacted Terry at Power Trac and he said I was being taken for a ride. He told me to simply send it back to Virginia and it would be fixed at no charge.

I also was talking to a man that works in maintainence on forklifts and pallet jacks where I work and he showed me a seal kit and told me the same thing Terry did. I was being taken for a ride. He said he has replaced seals on motors 20 years old with no problems and offered to fix mine for the simple cost of the seal kit.

Meanwhile, the man at the hydraulic shop never called me back.
The next morning I told him I didn't need the work done but he said he had already sent off for the parts and it would require a restock and shipping fee of $108 even though I had not authorized the work.

I talked him into splitting the difference. To make a long story short, I would say to be careful about picking out a place to have work on your equipment.
 
   / Beware of unscrupulous repair shops #2  
Talked him into splitting the difference?

Unless he has a written authorization from you to do work (ie. estimated work cost with your signature on it), he doesn't have a leg to stand on. Take your motor back, and tell him to lump it.

Restock charges? Yeah, sure.
 
   / Beware of unscrupulous repair shops #3  
Certainly there are unscrupulous repair shops; always have been and probably always will be. But in many cases, the problem is not dishonesty as much as lack of knowledge as to what to do. I guess you could call it incompetence, but sometimes maybe not the technician's fault. It can certainly be discouraging for the customer, though.

We have a 2001 Ford Windstar, excellent condition. Several months ago, the "check engine" light came on. The dealer charged me about $80 to check it out on the scanner; said the scanner showed that at some time the car had been running too rich, but not now and no defective parts to replace. About 3 weeks ago, that "check engine" light came on again. I was busy and driving it everyday, so I didn't take it to the shop. After 3 days, the "check engine" light went off and has stayed off. The car still runs normally. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

One of our daughters has a 2002 Ford Taurus. It's been to the dealer (same dealer) 3 times in the last 3 months because of the "check engine" light coming on, and they cannot find any problem. Daughter says one day last week, twice in one day, the "check engine" light came on while she was on the freeway, the car sputtered and she thought it was going to die, the air-conditioner blew hot air instead of cold for a few minutes, then everything returned to normal. Friday a technician put it on the scanner, found nothing wrong, drove it about 40 miles on the freeway, everything normal. I drove it 10 miles on the freeway this morning; runs perfectly. I don't think the dealer is being dishonest, but sometimes those intermittent problems can sure be frustrating.
 
   / Beware of unscrupulous repair shops #4  
Bird, so very often when the check engine light comes on it's nothing more than the fuel cap not being tight enough. Many have stamped right on them to make them click three times. It has something to do with pressure in the tank..

Sometimes it's just a piece of carbon on the O2 sensor , sometimes it's just gremlins.

It's always somewhat alarming and completely frustrating though.
 
   / Beware of unscrupulous repair shops #5  
Thanks, Marland, I knew about the gas cap, and that hasn't been the problem with my Windstar, but I hadn't thought to ask my daughter. I would think that she'd have been aware of it, though, because when I took the Windstar to the dealer, that's the first thing the service writer asked about and checked.
 
   / Beware of unscrupulous repair shops #6  
you know, for $79 you can buy an engine analyzer that is incredibly easy to operate. Plugs into an easily accessible connection under the dash, push the button, and read the code. For $160, you can buy the model that gives you the actual text of the fault instead of just a code. Money well spent in my book, since the price of getting the shop to check the light = the cost of the analyzer.
 
   / Beware of unscrupulous repair shops #7  
Tim, I'll have to check into that. I used to have an "engine analyzer" for the old cars, but the last I knew, the ones that plug into the modern cars were $1,100 and up; way up, in fact, for a good one.
 
   / Beware of unscrupulous repair shops #8  
Hot button topic for me!

As a former (20+years) auto mechanic/technician(ASE Master Auto Technician & Advanced Engine Performance Specialist, if it matters), I'll have to agree with you...partly.

You can buy a scantool pretty cheap. It, and a good manual can find some of the easy fixes. BUT!!! There are a still a lot of problems that fool the computer. Don't even begin to think that a few hundred bucks spent on that stuff makes you the equal of a good automotive powertrain control diagnostician.

(That said, those years of experience demonstrated to me that good diagnosticians are extremely rare. To be really good at that stuff takes a similar degree of ability as being a good systems analyst. Guess which pays better and gets more respect?)

In any case, and with due respect where it is deserved, any mechanic who tells you to cover up a warning light with tape is either incompetent, dishonest, or both. Be Warned!

The lights indicate a problem, and ignoring them is a bad choice. The problem that the light is warning of can be found and fixed. The money you save on repairs by ignoring it will likely be lost in reduced fuel economy or collateral damage resulting from running with a failed system.

End of rant, unless somebody wants to pursue it further.

Dave
 
   / Beware of unscrupulous repair shops #9  
The advantage of owning a scan tool is that you can pick up those spurous codes, and solve the easy problems (like the last one that I had "cylinder #5 is not firing correctly" without paying $100 for a diagnoses.

Here is the one that I bought (from Ebay, since the guy was selling them about $20 cheaper then anyone else):
68_1_b.JPG

Equus 3110 on EBay $178

I chose this instead of the cheaper model because it reads CAN codes as well as OBD II. It will also give a text version instead of just the code, which means you don't have to pull out your Haynes manual to look it up. While neither of my cars uses CAN, I could forsee buying a new car in the next couple years that will.
3100.jpg

EQUUS 3100 on Ebay $61
 
   / Beware of unscrupulous repair shops #10  
I have one of the analyzers. As my luck would have (good/bad?) I have only used it on friends cars. I think that it is actually easier to test cards today because of these devices. Many people think that they are still $1000 plus, but they are not. If you are going to spend $20,000 to $30,000 on a car, I think it is well worth it to buy your own tester. Worst case it gives you a way to check on the shop. Often (but not always) the problem can be fixed with a $40 oxygen sensor, tightening the gas cap or something similar. I also always buy the shop manual. They cost a lot more than the tester, but for the serious do it yourself person, they are a god send.

Take care, but not all of it.

Bob Rip
 
 
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