Backhoe Build A Backhoe For PT425... It Could Happen

[MossRoad]

No oil at all. Chips were flying everywhere. I just used moderate pressure and took my time. I could actually touch the hole saw blade a few seconds after I stopped. It either didn't heat up much at all or did an extremely good job of dissipating the heat. The tooth pattern is offset and staggered. I think it is a huge improvement over the hole saws that I have used in the past where the tooth pattern is even and all in the same line. I'm just glad it works so well.

 

[MossRoad]

J_J,
I've been looking at both the welded and tie rod cylinders. Price is a concern for me, as I want to keep it as cheap as possible. I have also been looking at the tube ends VS clevis ends. Still can't decide. I will probably stick with the clevis type as the directions call for, but nothing is set in stone(or welded solid) yet.

 

[MossRoad]

The hole saws are Milwaukee 4/6 bi-metal blades.

Here's a link to Milwaukee's page on these blades. Funny thing is, the pictures don't show the staggered teeth very well. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Check them out at a hardware or tool store.

 

[pajoube]

Thanks David,
First I have seen of the staggered teeth. I think I would be more inclined to drill holes in thick steel now.
In the past this was almost impossible with what was available at the local hardware store.
PJ

 

[J_J]

Surplus hydraulics has lots of hyd cylinders to choose from. Ebay is a good place to shop also.

 

[J_J]

David, This is a picture of the dipper arm where the two cylinders are hooked up.

 

[J_J]

Picture of the center joint. I just cut a wedge out of the box tube, bent it to the correct angle and welded it together.

 

[J_J]

David, You didn't say if you were going to use hydraulics for the stabilerlizer legs. Here is a picture of the ones I am using. It might save you bucks in the long run by not using the legs, and use the PT for stabilization. It would also save on two more valves.

 

[MossRoad]

J_J,
I really can't thank you enough for the pictures. They are helping me shape this project as I go. Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Attached is what I have so far. This picture shows it in the UP position. The "bucket" is about where it will go when the dipper arm is trimmed to length. And NO, I will not be using the patio blocks for the final construction of the bucket. They are just for mock up. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif The bucket looks like it will clear 8' high from ground level when curled under a bit more than shown.

 

[MossRoad]

Attached is picture of the reach position. Looks like a 10' reach. Can anyone imaging how easy it would be to tip the PT forward with that much steel hanging out that far? PT Pucker, here I come! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif This is proabably a good reason to stick with the plans and make the frame long, instead of short. That way, I can counter weight it, AND some day, if I want to add an engine and hydraulic pump, I can use it as a stand alone unit and tow it behind a car if needed. I can always shorten it up if it looks like the PT can take it.